If you want to see orangutans, head to Bukit Lawang in Sumatra.
Initially, I thought my place to find them would be Malaysian Borneo. I had many reasons for visiting Borneo, namely because I simply hadn’t been there before, but also because I wanted to see some amazing wildlife and spend some time in the jungle. Due to deforestation given the influx of (mostly foreign) palm oil plantations, and lack of orangutans in general, I was left feeling disappointed.
The feeding platform I stopped by in Sepilok while motorbiking around Borneo ended up being a let-down for me. It was chock-full of loud tourists and felt more like a zoo than an opportunity to appreciate the orangutans in a natural environment, seeing how they would naturally act.
I wanted to give it another shot. Given orangutans only live in Borneo and Sumatra, Bukit Lawang seemed like the perfect place to give Orangutan viewing a fighting chance. I’m delighted to say that I was not disappointed this time around. A one-day trek ended up providing an amazing viewing opportunity:
But, as amazingly bright and intriguing as they are, there’s much more to the jungle than only orangutans.
A Little Info
The orangutans seen in the jungles of Bukit Lawang are “semi-wild,” meaning they were most likely orphaned, have been rehabilitated, and have since been released back into the wild. This is why they are easier to spot in the jungles and don’t mind being somewhat close to humans. There are even a couple of orangutans that are famous for “hugging” or even biting tourists if they get too close.
That said, these photos were all taken with a zoom lens. I appear to be much closer to the animals than I actually was.
It’s worth mentioning that Sumatra, like Borneo, is also prone to deforestation due to spreading palm oil plantations. One of the ways to help keep the orangutans’ homes preserved is to visit the areas where they live, proving that they can be a lucrative tourist attraction.
Do it Yourself
- Get to Bukit Lawang via Medan’s Amplas bus station. Public busses can be taken for around 20,000 RP (USD$ 2) while tourist busses are closer to $10. Take a becak from the bus terminal in Bukit Lawang to the main town.
- A great budget option for your stay is Bukit Lawang Indah – the price is right at 50,000 RP per night and the food and atmosphere are both great. Cross the large white bridge from the main town and find the guesthouse at the end of it on the other side.
- Find the right guide. A huge part of my amazing trekking experience was my guide, Robet’s, sixth sense when it came to searching out wildlife. Booking ahead through the wrong agency or believing stories about guides either being “dead” or “not trekking anymore” can lead to overpaying and getting stuck with a guide who doesn’t know the jungle well. TrekSumatra is a great resource for the best guides in the area, gives the guide a much fairer cut, and provides the best budget options. You can also ask for Robet or Rinto (two guides I can personally vouch for) at Bukit Lawang Indah’s reception.
- A package including transport from Medan and accommodation can be booked. If you are on a budget, make your own way to Bukit Lawang and search out a guide for 25-30 Euro per day. Bargaining below this price is discouraged.
- Things to avoid: Some guides feed the animals during treks. This is particularly harmful to the animals’ natural habits and can even lead to an early death. If your guide does this or tells you it’s ok to offer the animals food of any kind, be firm and say that you do not support this kind of tour or tourism.
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Judi Kay says
I’ve been in <3 with orangutans (and Indonesia) ever since I saw a Globe Trekker special about primates. I've had so many excuses and procrastinated about saving but now I'm focused. I'll be starting my own open-ended SE Asia journey in December just before my big 3-0! I can't wait to visit this village! (SIDE NOTE: What's the minimum you think I should have saved up before I leave? I plan to also try to find work too)
I've really been enjoying your blog and I'm so hankful that I stumbled across it a few weeks ago! You are really a motivation for me. 😀
Kristin says
Congrats! That’s absolutely awesome. It’s hard to say what you should save before you leave because it depends on what kind of traveler you are. If you’re willing to travel slowly, take public transport, and sleep in the cheapest places, you can probably budget around 1200-1500 per month to be on the safe side. It’s very easy to break that number, though, depending on your travel habits.
Judi Kay says
Thanks so much for replying. I am using a screenshot of this article for my vision board 🙂 Can’t wait to see your next post!
Skúli says
Beautiful photos!
I was in Bukit Lawang some five years ago and really enjoyed it. Heading to Borneo in a few months. Any wildlife experience you could recommend there?
Kristin says
There is a pygmy elephant river tour in Sabah near Sandakan. I am sure the other states have a lot to offer as well but I only went to Sabah personally.
Ian Ord - Where Sidewalks End says
Gorgeous photos, Kristin! I love Bukit Lawang!! I did the overnight trek there about 10 years ago.. looks like you saw more orangutans than we did, mind you. Only saw a mother with 2 babies.. which was brilliant in itself!
Steph (@ 20 Years Hence) says
This looks really incredible! We went and saw the orangutans in Sabah and were satisfied with that experience, but I have to admit this looks waaaaay better. We’ll be heading to Indonesia in 2 weeks for a 2-month visit and everything we read makes it sound like Sumatra is amazing. We haven’t been planning to visit it, but seeing these photos, I don’t know if I’ll be able to resist!
Jo (The Blond) says
Useful post, especially regarding Borneo – I thought it’s more ‘wild’.
Lovely photos!
Arianwen says
They’re really great shots. I felt exactly the same about Borneo and then heard it was really touristy. Perhaps I’ll get a chance to stop by in Sumatra on my way back from Oz next year (if I leave Oz that is!)
Thomas says
Heading to Southeast Asia fot the third time next week, I just discovered your blog and it’s really amazing! My original plan included Sihanoukville and Borneo, but thanks to your articles i’ll better stick to Perhentians and Sumatra instead.
I hope you’ll be able to go on like this forever 🙂
Kristin says
Thanks Thomas :). I’ve been to all of those places and really like them all, so don’t rule anything out! I think you’d enjoy it all, but for orangutans I really think Sumatra is better.
Thomas says
Yes, you are right, there is probably hardly any place in SEA which is not worth a trip.
Gosh, just had another look at your stunning photos of Sumatra and I’m so damn excited! Plane is leaving in a few hours, see you around 🙂
Kristin says
Awesome. Enjoy it! I really liked Sumatra (but not Medan!)
Kirsten @ Green Global Travel says
Such beautiful creatures! Great photography!
Kristin says
Thank you!
Rachel says
good to know that there are natural viewing of Orangutan in Bukit Lawang, Sumatra still, it is sad that a lot of place are overrun by tourists like in Malaysia. Thanks for the informative post on the trekking.
Kristin says
It’s more the palm oil plantations that are threatening them in Malaysia and Sumatra 🙁
Colin Thomas says
Lovely photos Kristin. You have helped me decide to visit Bukit Lawang rather than go to Kalimantan. My only concern would be the need to do hours of trekking. I really hope that in Indonesia and Malaysia we will soon see a dramatic change in palm plantations and forest destruction. I enjoy your blog, thank you.
Kristin says
You can just do a half day of trekking and still see plenty of Orangutans. The palm oil plantations are definitely destroying Malaysia and Indonesia. It’s very sad.
Colin Thomas says
Thanks Kristin, that certainly sounds do-able. I live in Australia, and even here there is a growing awareness of products using palm oil from the wrong sources, so there are some good signs.
Bobi Hnd says
Thanks for visiting Bukit lawang, next time you have to visit Landak River, that’s gonna be the second Bukit Lawang. You can check what kind of activities you can do in Landak River and around.
Kristin says
Thanks for the suggestion!
Lisa says
Hi!
I’m wondering if you did the overnight river tour in Borneo to view the orangutans, or just went to some kind of feeding area? I’m looking into booking the tour, but you’re making me question whether it’d be a better experience to get to Sumatra. Thanks for any input and the info on the blog, off to Ijen Crayer soon with your help!
Kristin says
I just went to Sepilok in Borneo and saw the feeding platform and was underwhelmed. To trek in the jungle in Sumatra and see the semi-wild ones was super worth it to me, plus I loved hanging out in Bukit Lawang!
Dionysis says
Hi Kristin, your blog is amazing and really helpful! I am visiting Bukit Lawang in August this year and I am checking about travel vaccinations and I’m not sure if they are all actually necessary or if it’s just travel doctors trying to make money by scaring the s**t out of people.. I know you’re not an expert on this but I’m assuming that at some point you had to go through the same procedure and I would trust your opinion since you travel so much, especially off the beaten track. Did you take the rabies vaccine or the Japanese Encephalitis before going to BL?
Thank you!!
Kristin says
I didn’t do either one mainly because rabies is $1000 USD in the US and only buys you time if you get bitten. That said sometimes orangutans to bite people so keep your distance. JE wasn’t even available in any travel clinics near me though can be purchased in SEA for cheap, I’ve heard. I did get typhoid and Hep A+B and tetanus. Hope that helps and of course, doctor’s advice comes before mine. Have fun!
Kristin says
It ended up being way up there for me as well. The locals were awesome. I did both and both were great for different reasons but the orangutan sightings were way better in Sumatra.
lisa says
Thanks for the great post.
Did you feel at all that Bukit lawang was over touristy?
I have been looking into going trekking there or Ketembe.
Kristin says
I loved Bukit Lawang. The locals all knew my name by the second day that I was there, and that’s what made me want to stay. I can’t speak to how it is now, over 2 years later, but I loved it then.
Cassie DeFillipo says
Kristin, thanks so much for sharing your experience! Yesterday I stumbled onto your post (though I have read many of your posts over the years). When I read your article, I decided to look up flights, found a great deal, and will be heading there in a few months to spend my birthday searching for Orangutans! I look forward to using your suggestions!
Kristin says
That’s absolutely awesome! Please let me know how it goes and if Robet is there, he’s a great guide, as is his brother.
Kelly says
Thank you so much for this awesome advice!! I did my trek with Robert and I could not have been happier. He was so amazing, and I went during the slow season so he took me out all by myself. This was honestly one of the highlights of my 2.5 years of traveling. What an amazing experience. Robert also has a dorm room associated with his shop now and I stayed here. Great basic accommodation with a balcony right over the river. Very quiet and peaceful. No food there but many other guest houses around that have restaurants. Thanks again! Xx
Kelly
Kristin says
Wow he has a guesthouse now? Good for him! Glad that you enjoyed your trek with him. I loved that place and felt lucky to also get a solo trek. Was magical!
ewing says
Thank you for information, I will also try to contact the guides you’ve mentioned.
I have around 3-4 full days at BL, I think one day of trekking will be enough for me. What else is there to do? I know about the bat cave, but am not crazy about this idea. Going to elephants on my own will be probably too expensive/difficult. Do you have any other posts about BL? Maybe I could find some ideas there.
Kristin says
I just loved hanging with the locals and tubing down the river there. It’s a place to chill and be part of it all.
Freddy says
Jambi more better to visiting… elephants , orangutans. Tiger and many kind of monkey…. also bird…my location in bukit tigapuluh so fantastic….
pmdsp says
GETTING TO BUKIT: Please be careful with Pinang Baris Bus Station in MEDAN. As a tourist you will be likely approach by organized criminals trying to rip off tourists. Today I had the worst experience traveling Indonesia so far. The band of 3 guys approached me as I got on the public bus to Bukit Lawang, quoting a ridiculous price for a tourist, something around 150k for a trip that costs 20.000. I refused to pay them anything and insisted to pay directly to the bus driver as we get to Bukit Lawang. They wouldn’t give up and kept harassing me for about 30 minutes, even when the bus started driving. They got really verbally agressive and were yelling to get out the bus. At some point they tried to grab my arm and backpack and throw me out of the bus. Locals on the bus didin’t do anything to help and seemed afraid to get involved, same with the bus driver. Eventually as I kept saying over and over again that they won’t get anything from me they gave up and jumped of the bus. It was a scary and horrible situation not worth it at all. Please don’t pay these people anything as they will keep harassing tourists. And for single girls traveling, please avoid this bus station to save yourself horrible experience like this. This people are criminals and something should be done about it.
Kristin says
Yikes that’s terrible! I went there too but that hadn’t happened to me. So sorry for your negative experience!
Luke says
Thank you for mentioning not to feed the orangutans. It is still so commonly practiced, but it’s SO important that it stops. It’s really easy for human diseases to be passed on to orangutans, plus it continues a cycle of dependency instead of encouraging their returning to the wild. And it can be dangerous! The orangutan Mina is known to be quite aggressive, and it’s probably only a matter of time before something really serious happens.
It’s worth saying again:
PLEASE DO NOT FEED ORANGUTANS!
Kristin says
Ah yeah Mina likes to bite! It changes their behavior too so feeding them to get them closer is a messed up way to interact with them.
Meredith Davies says
Hey, just wondering how much time you think you need to spend there as a minimum to enjoy it? We’re pretty pressed for time and i don’t want to rush it and miss out.
THanks 🙂
Kristin says
Even if you only have a couple of days you can do it. The trek was just a few hours.
Forest says
Hi. I’m heading to Indonesia in a few weeks and love the idea of going to North Sumatra but have read contrasting things about it – how did you feel as a solo female travelling around that area? Anything I should know?
Kristin says
Medan sucks. Try to spend as little time there as possible. Otherwise I felt fine!
Katy says
Just curious as to what you experienced in Medan to make you dislike it.. I am flying into there. Do you suggest to just travel straight out to Bukit Lawang?
Is the bus station easy to get to from the airport?
Did you also travel around Lake Toba too?? Heading to North Sumatra in April ’18.
One more questions (sorry!) — will it still be a fullfilling experience without a SLR/zoom lens?
Thanks in advance
Kristin says
I think the French woman who ran a guesthouse I was hanging out at in Bukit Lawang said it best when she said, “I always tell people to give places a chance. Hang out there and get to know it, except for Medan. There are no redeeming qualities about Medan.”
However, people said that about Maputo in Mozambique too and it was actually an awesome, albeit short, experience for me. So, it’s hard to tell you not to spend any time there knowing that I’m coming from a place of judgement. I just didn’t really like the city. I did go to Lake Toba, and you can access both from Medan.
Of course it’s still worth seeing the orangutans without a zoom lens! You get to be present for it, which is amazing.
Enwezor says
I loved tubing down the river from Bukit Lawang. It was so fun and then getting out at some point, finding a bus and then getting on the bus with your huge inflatable tubes and the locals with their chickens. Classic! First time I ever had Gado-gado. Loved Sumatra and the Padang food. My goodness, some of the buffalo rendang could blow your socks off, I swear one time, it made my vision blur!
Kristin says
Me too. Loved it.