“Hi Kristin! Where you go?” kind voices called out periodically as I walked down the dirt and rock path through the trees. Smiling faces greeted me each time I turned my head to see who was calling. Somehow they had all remembered my name.
“Come back in a few weeks, months, or years, and they’ll still remember you,” said Josie, a Canadian who has made this adorable place her home for the next year.
Bukit Lawang is a tiny trekking town in the north of Sumatra. Most people just breeze through, using it as a hub for the nights before and after their jungle trek.
I was told that there is good reason to stay longer – that there is more to the place than meets the eye. Weeks later as I write this, I realize how true that was.
I am still warmed by the memories of my weeklong stay there.
Each time I met someone new in Bukit Lawang, I’d tell him my name, and where I am from. He’d usually sing a line from Hotel California, and if I told him any extra information, he’d never forget it. Days later, he could repeat the same things right back to me without missing one detail.
Plus, I had a vested interest in sticking around – there was a bundle of kittens we had rescued from Lake Toba that needed a new home. Bukit Lawang was going to be it. They would eventually end up loved by the whole community. Josie kindly took them in and they have been happy little trekkers ever since.
I spent my days going to Landak River with locals to avoid the Sunday karaoke (oh how it made my head hurt), being asked to take pictures with the kids who would pour in from neighboring Medan, renting inner tubes for 10,000 rupiah (USD$1) and tubing down the river through town, jumping off of rocks into the water with local kids, picking the tube back up, hiking it to the starting point, and tubing right back down again.
What I loved even more was the musical nights at my guesthouse. The guys who worked there would take out a guitar, bongo drums, and eventually a Bintang beer bottle and pocketknife which would become another instrument. They’d belt out lyrics to popular songs, encouraging everyone in the room to sit in a circle and sing along.
Various lyrics would get replaced with trekking terms:
“You know you look so good (look so good), you know you look so fine (look so fine) you know you look se-xy (not really), you know you look just like an orang-u-tan in Bukit Lawaaang a bamba…” (La Bamba)
“Would you know my name if I saw you in jungle? Would it be the same if I saw you in jungle?” (Tears in Heaven)
“Welcome to the hotel Bukit Lawang. Such a lovely place, such a lovely face” (Hotel California)
Some nights, we’d go through so many bottles of beer the side-by-side lineup of bottles would span several tables.
I never feared I’d get scammed there – something I’ve dealt with heavily in other areas of Southeast Asia. That’s a good feeling. It was also the cheapest week of my travels in Indonesia, and one of my best fed. My downing of an entire kilo (2.2 lbs!) of passion fruit in only 12 hours is still legendary.
When I left, my trekking guide even took me to the local bus station to make sure I got on the right bus, and told me what to do once I got to Medan so that I could take public transport the whole way (costing me only 25,000 instead of 100,000 rupiah to get all the way to the airport).
It was one of the best weeks of my travels so far, solely because I felt so welcomed by the locals. Bukit Lawang, I have a feeling I’ll be coming back to you one day.
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Jo (The Blond) says
awww that sounds lovely! I really adore these kind of stories and had a few like this myself. There’s nothing better than a good night of drinking with the locals!
Kristin says
Agreed! It’s always a good time.
Dana says
What an incredible travel experience! It these kind of people and places that really make long lasting memories. Truthfully, I’d never heard of this place before reading your post, but I’m much more incline to check it out now!
Kristin says
Absolutely. You should definitely check it out!
Ash Clark says
You dont ever really hear too much about sumatra apart from the surf and diving, so thanks for sharing this!
After living in Thailand for much of last year, I can totally relate to the relief you had from finding a place in sea where there isn’t a scamming culture amongst the locals…
Steph (@ 20 Years Hence) says
It’s always so awesome when you find a place on the road that feels like home. I’m sure that’s part of why we loved the Philippines so much—not only did everyone always assume I was a local, but even when they found out I wasn’t, we were pretty much welcomed everywhere with open arms. Bukit Lawang sounds like an amazing place, and I definitely think that it’s the search for places like it that keep me on the road.
Naomi says
Oh god, Hotel California. You’re from CA too? Did you ever have people sing the opening lines of the OC theme song? Funny how CA is represented all over the world… 😉
Kristin says
I was even living in Newport Beach for four years prior to this trip and nobody sang me the OC song! Some people would say “like the TV show?” and then I’d have to break the news to them that actually, the show was shot in Malibu.
Touch The Nature says
that’s cool, next time try weh island, it’s a great place
Kristin says
I heard about it! I definitely want to explore Sumatra some more
Simone says
Sumatra has been on and off our list numerous times and I think it’s back on now! We currently in Bali and may make a hope over in the coming weeks!
Kristin says
Put it on, especially if you want to see Orangutans and let’s face it, who doesn’t?
Jeff Bell says
You deserve a nobel prize for saving those kittens! That is totally something my wife would do.
We are planning a trip to Indonesia for later this year and your posts have been very informative. Thank you.
Kristin says
Thanks for reading, Jeff! The prize would have to go to the couple I was traveling with. They took most of the initiative since I’m actually allergic! I still pet them, though. I couldn’t help it! They were so cute.
Tess says
What guesthouse did you stay at while in medan/butik lawang? I am planning our visit there and having trouble.
Thanks
Kristin says
Get out of Medan as quickly as possible. In Bukit Lawang I like Bukit Lawang Indah but you can shop around
Anonymous says
“Jungle trek, jungle trek, in Bukit Lawang!”
Love that place – was there last year in September time 🙂
Anonymous says
Hey Kristin! Where did you stay in Bukit Lawang?
Kristin says
Bukit Lawang Indah on the other side of the river
Abi Dehnad says
I have been in Indonesia for five years approx. Jakarta/Bandung / Surabaya/ South Sulawesi (sulsel in Indonesian) incl Tanah toraja.& Makssar and . i like this country very much and want to travel to Bukit Lawang &Medan+many more places in my next long trip there ..to make travel documentaries with a local friend .. hopefully next year upon finding some sponsors Or probably on my own budget .I admire these people ..easy going and enjoy simple pleasures of life .. easy +lovely they are
thank you very much Kristine for this sweet memories …Indonesia is endless beauty.. tranquil atmosphere and green green green but greedy palm farmers (big companies) have destroyed the major parts of these innocent orang hutans and have changed natural jungles into palm plantations and their labors are beating and killing oranghutans who are have no place to live ..
Kristin says
Yes it’s a very sad situation there for the Orangutans. They’re losing their habitat to palm oil and I wish it were different. I hope your documentary gets some eyes! The more money that tourism brings in instead of palm oil, the higher their chances of survival. Sad but true.
Abi Dehnad says
Sorry Kristin i posted my text twice but the second one is better and amended thanks for your kind comment
Abi Dehnad says
Abi Dehnad says
12/07/2017 at 2:05 pm
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I have been in Indonesia for five years approx. Jakarta/Bandung / Surabaya/ South Sulawesi (sulsel in Indonesian) incl Tanah toraja.& Makssar and . i like this country very much and want to travel to Bukit Lawang &Medan+many more places in my next long trip there ..to make travel documentaries with a local friend .. hopefully next year upon finding some sponsors or probably on my own budget .I admire these people ..easy going and enjoy simple pleasures of life .. easy +lovely they are
thank you very much Kristine for this sweet memories …Indonesia is endless beauty.. tranquil atmosphere and green green green but greedy palm farmers (multi national companies) have destroyed the major parts of the natural habitats of Orang hutans and have changed natural jungles into palm plantations and their labors are beating and killing Orang hutans who are have no place to live ..
I am an environment activist and am going to join an NGO helping Oranghutans ..
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