There is always all kinds of negative and nerve-wracking news coming out of the Mindanao, Philippines region that make it sound like a scary, scary place. There are frequent kidnappings, killings, and various terrorist activities that have gone on there for years, making it a firm “no” for most travelers when planning their Philippines itineraries.
I recalled when I had arrived in Sabah, Borneo that there had recently been an attack by the terrorist groups from Mindanao around one of the towns I visited along the way, but it did not target any tourists. That was last May, and when I found myself in the Philippines in December, with that memory in mind, I took out a map and scanned Mindanao.
It’s pretty huge.
I had heard there were so many beautiful things to see in that part of the Philippines, and was curious how true all of the media campaigns were. I mean, it turned out that the hurricane wasn’t nearly as widespread as they made it out to be, so maybe the dangers in Mindanao weren’t, either.
Media does have a way of sensationalizing things, after all.
Where I went:
My first introduction to Mindanao was Camiguin island, known for diving (like much of this archipelago). I went for Christmas hoping for something peaceful and beautiful. What I got was a place that started out as just that, only to bloom into a festive atmosphere full of locals and visitors blending, wishing each other a merry Christmas and sharing the holiday together.
It ended up being one of my favorite places in the Philippines and definitely stood out as the friendliest. Maybe that’s partially because it’s less visited than other parts of the country, but still has ample tourist infrastructure and plenty of good diving.
From there I made my way to Cagayan de Oro, where there were even fewer Western tourists (in fact, I saw zero). I had gone there with hopes of climbing a mountain nearby, but my habitual lack of planning finally bit me where the sun don’t shine and due to the Christmas and impending New Year’s holiday, I wasn’t able to get it planned given my short amount of time there.
Regardless, it was eye-opening to be in Mindanao, a place with an infamous name that many travelers fear.
Was it safe?
I didn’t feel endangered at any point there. I had read that during the Christmas revelry, a girl had been killed in Cagayan de Oro due to a stray bullet fired upward, but the same happens with irresponsibly fired fireworks during Yi Peng in Thailand, and in the United States, people fall victim to stray bullets every day.
I did also notice that there were metal detectors at mall entrances and armed security guards and police everywhere, which was slightly unsettling, but I still didn’t feel there was much cause for concern. Everyone was relaxed and friendly, if not a little curious.
I will say the hotel attendant where I stayed in Cagayan de Oro didn’t get the hint when I declined his invite to go to a dancing club with him because I, “wasn’t feeling well.” He had a habit of coming by my room and knocking until I answered, and I am just too non-confrontational to put my foot down and tell him to stop and that I was not interested, though I did kindly ask for privacy. He apologized, saying he just never saw Westerners and it was exciting for him. I felt a mixture of annoyed by him and endeared to him.
I would take that as a one-off experience and blame the situation, not the place, however.
Where is safe and where is dangerous in Mindanao?
The main problems are in Zamboanga, where there are bombings and kidnappings somewhat regularly. This is the Philippines’ third largest city, based in southwestern Mindanao. It is close to Malaysian Borneo and suffers from frequent acts of terrorism.
That said, the northeastern areas such as Surigao del Norte and even Davao are becoming more visited by tourists, and are generally considered to be safe. The general rule is stay east.
So it turns out that yes, Mindanao is A-ok for a solo female traveler, and even ended up introducing me to one of my favorite spots – Camiguin.
Have you been to Mindanao or other regions that others fear are unsafe, only to find that all was well?
Micamyx|Senyorita says
I love Mindanao! The problem with the media is they tend to generalize. Yes, there are some parts of Mindanao that are not recommended for foreign tourists, but Mindanao is too big and it comprises of several provinces that are quite far from each other. Cagayan de Oro and Camiguin are relatively safe places 🙂
Kristin says
Completely agree. Silly Media.
Grant says
There is an issue around insurance as well. I’m British and there is a permanent Do Not travel warning from the foreign office over Mindanao so any trip there automatically invalidates our travel insurance policies – for everything. So no health cover, no theft cover, nothing…
Kristin says
I had no idea about that, Grant. Thanks for sharing and making us aware!
Jim says
I do not think safe is a good word to use; if the place was ‘safe’ then I am sure this article would not have been written.
My wife is from the mountains near Cagayan de Oro, there is a curfew in the city no-one out except in public transport after 8pm. All vehicles searched into the city from the South since the bomb went off there.
Until a few years ago Mindanao was the ninth most dangerous place on the planet. A conflict from 1975 until the recent peace process which has cost an estimated 120,000 lives and not only soldiers onto soldiers, the public were involved. The possibly the people you shake hands with when you are there.
Somehow the two splinter groups who broke away from MILF manage to kidnap over 100 foreigners per year, staggering as you say with the low number of westerners seen on the main island. The largest festival on the island only had two American men; Cagayan de Oro often only 5 or so at any one time (with armed guards). They do not bother the pensioners from the West living on the island, they would get no ransom or publicity from them, they want fresh in holidaymakers or businessmen.
Taking away this Muslim problem element. No one travels after dark on their own – no-one. Dark being 6pm at the latest. Almost all houses have bars on the windows and most people have dogs. Those that can afford to live in guarded accommodation, others live in close knit typically 50% family villages, like my wife. When my wife lives in the city there are large accommodation units for people working or studying there, they too are guarded 24 hours.
This is not an indication of a ‘safe’ place. As for a woman travelling on her own my wife has many a horror story about those women caught on their own.
Most soldiers return from the battlefields of the World, this does not make battlefields a safe place.
Mindanao is a brilliant place, with many lovely people, if you are a rough and tough individual on the inside willing to take a gamble with your life and health there is nowhere I know of which is better.
However safe it is not.
Kristin says
That’s a fair assessment, but there are parts that are dangerous and parts that aren’t. Camiguin was just fine, and I think it’s common to label an entire area as unsafe when maybe it deserves a second look.
Jim says
Thank you Kristin,
I agree about some of the smaller islands, Camiguin is supposed to be stunning as are some of the others in that area.
I also agree most of the 2107 islands are relatively ok based on the normal levels of crime associated with these places.
Enjoying your site.
Thank you
Sofiea says
The urban places in Mindanao are safe enough, just avoid Marawi & Cotabato areas, even the locals will advise you against visiting those two places. I recently travelled solo to Mindanao & visited Iligan City (city of Majestic Waterfalls), CDO; Dahilayan Adventure Park in Manolo Fortich, Bukidnon; Davao; General Santos; Sarangani; Koronadal then Lake Sebu. Had to cram them all in a week because of my limited leaves, hahaha
mandy says
i visited cagayan de toro last week and cambiguin. my second visit to the philippines in 7month. i love the philippines. made some friends for life
Delight G says
Davao & Bukidnon are safe places as well. 🙂
Clsp19 says
I too was uncertain about the warnings and media influence before I went on a 3 week trip to Davao to visit my family. I had never been before and was unsettled by the reactions I was getting whenever I told someone where I was going on a holiday to.
Ended up being the best 3 weeks of my life and as a young female I felt absolutely safe in Davao City. As others say try to stick East and you should be fine. Cambiguin looks beautiful too!
Kristin says
Camiguin was great and I would recommend it to anyone. I had no problems at all there and am glad to know that you had a good time in Davao City! As you said, keep East.
Ann says
Most urban cities in Mindanao are safe, even safer than Metro Manila combined. The fightings between rebels and military are done in the mountains, in far south, in the ARMM region. If you look at the map, that’s a tiny part of the whole Mindanao. The bombings are relatively few like , say, compared to Turkey , or terrorists attacks like in France. The media just love to sensationalized and it’s doing a disservice to Mindanao’s tourism which I believe has a lot to offer. I am a female and I enjoy being out at night alone especially in the city of Cagayan de Oro. Of course, one should use common sense and best to assume that there will always be a bad apple in every corner of the world.
Cagayan de Oro is one of the safest cities in Mindanao and also the other cities in the Northern Mindanao region. You should try water rafting there. It’s also close to other outdoor attractions like in Dahilayan for ziplines. Iligan City offers Tinago Falls. The most beautiful and breathtaking falls I’ve seen so far. It has a lagoon good for swimming. You might see few Western tourists in these places but I can assure you everyone will be friendly and helpful. Just get used to being stared at just because a white beauty is considered superior among Filipinos in general. It’s not out of disrespect but of curiosity mostly.
Sammy says
I think this information provided in your article is irresponsible for anyone reading it now in light of the recent events. Why risk it, especially as a tourist, who let’s be honest, would have a target on their head and make a nice juicy capture for one of the militants.
The UK states not to travel south at all anymore, but sure, risk it and at best invalidate your travel insurance, at worst get your head chopped off!
Kristin says
It’s an honest account of my experience, and anyone can draw from it what he or she wishes
Marla Seaman says
I went to the Philippines about 20 years ago. I LOVED it. The pictures of the gorgeous children made me almost ache with longing to go again…A part of my heart will always stay there….Bravo to you