Torres del Paine in Chile is the cherry on top of the Patagonia experience for most hikers. It’s hard to top the ice field, horn and tower-like rock formations, and the ever changing landscape from day to day of the trek.
I’ve hiked the O Circuit in Torres del Paine twice now, and have led/organized trips there for 3 groups of women. It’s one of my favorites in the world for the physical challenges, the harsh but stunning landscape, and the number of ‘wow!’ moments.
Trekking in Torres del Paine is different than anywhere else in the world. You can pretty much count on very strong winds, rain, mud, and sometimes even snow. It sounds extreme but with the proper gear and preparation it’s a lot easier to enjoy it. These are a few things to know before taking on the O Circuit trek:
1. There are Several Starting Points (But Just One Direction)
The bus that brings you to the park will stop at the headquarters where you pick up your permits and sign in. Next there will be several other buses that make several stops, including the Welcome Center and the Hotel Las Torres, where I started. You can also get off on the last stop and do the Q trek, or take a boat to the Grey Glacier and start from there.
There’s no right or wrong place to start. Personally, I knew that I wanted to do the entire O trek and preferred to finish with the Torres, so I started at the Welcome Center. If you’re unsure whether or not you want to do the whole thing and want to test the W (the shorter trek) first, you can get the boat over and hike to Refugio Grey.
But if you’re toying with doing the full O Circuit, you really should!
Also keep in mind that if you’re hiking the O you can only go in a counterclockwise direction, whereas those on the W can go both ways. If you’re doing the O, or just considering it, make sure you’re going counterclockwise.
2. In Case You’re on the Fence about Going for the Full O Circuit
By tacking on another three days in Torres del Paine you gain several things:
Some of the most beautiful parts of the trail are on the part of the trail that the W doesn’t cover. Some say it’s even the best part of the whole trek. Yes, you have to get over the John Gardner Pass, but the reward of hiking next to the Southern Patagonian Ice Field all day is so worth it. You’ll get views that most people who visit the park don’t see.
The trail is much less crowded on the back end of the park, and the refugios have a more intimate feel.
The camaraderie with the other hikers is easier to come by because there are fewer people on the trail. You tend to meet each other, talk, hang out, and get to know each other before joining the masses on the W.
Convinced yet? Don’t worry, you can do it!
3. You Must Book Ahead of Time
Torres del Paine has increased in popularity by 30% year over year. If hiking during high season, you’ll need a permit and to book camping spots ahead of time, which you can do in town or on Fantastico Sur and Vertice Patagonia.
This wasn’t necessary when I went at the end of March but in January and February, definitely look into it.
4. Refugio, Rented Tent, or Backpack?
When booking your campsites you’ll have the option to just reserve a spot where you’d pitch your own tent, a place in a refugio, which are limited, or tents that are already pitched for you. The last option is typically a package deal that also includes all of your meals. Which should you go for?
If you have the budget, the tent rentals provide the best flexibility. This is what I liked about them:
- You’ll significantly lighten your load without having to carry food, camping, or cooking equipment.
- You don’t have to set up the tents, and they’re generally nice and big.
- The sleeping bags were actually pretty clean and comfy.
- The food is pretty good at most of the refugios, though some were much better than others.
- If you opt for the fixed tent rentals rather than the refugios, you have more options for where to sleep, especially Los Perros, which is the closest camp to the John Gardner Pass. Otherwise it’s simply too much to attempt from Dickson to Grey in one day. It would be over 30km!
The biggest downside is the cost. If you bring your own gear, you’ll be paying about a quarter of the price. You can always opt to eat some of your meals in refugios to decrease your weight, but also keep in mind they will serve guests first, so it’s not always guaranteed that you can eat in every refugio.
5. Important Things to Pack
Backpacking in Patagonia comes with a unique set of challenges that other parts of the world aren’t as well known for. In Patagonia you can count on heavy winds, rain, and even snow. You’ll want to bring gear that can withstand the elements, particularly that super insane wind! Keep the following in mind:
Tents
It’s tempting to bring a normal tent from home, I know, but a typical dome tent does not fare well in the wind in Patagonia. The last thing you want on an 8-day trek is to end up with a tent you can’t use, so get one that is good in heavy winds.
I used an MSR tent and it worked great. The key is the sturdy but light tent poles, which will hold up in the wind but won’t weigh you down tremendously. Every ounce counts when you have to carry 8 days worth of provisions!
Insurance
Get travel insurance that covers hiking. This basic package covers hiking under 3000 meters (this trek is definitely under that). There is no search and rescue in the park, and this will cover you if you need extra help getting out should you experience an injury.
Shoes
Don’t believe anyone who tells you that running shoes are just fine to use in Torres del Paine. The trail is very muddy and rocky, and some ankle protection plus a waterproof shell are both important to keeping you dry and blister-free. Remember to lace them up tight and get some nice thick socks as well! This is the pair of boots that I recommend and these are the socks I suggest.
*If you do get blisters, Compeed is a really helpful blister bandage. It’s sweat-proof, so each one can last a couple of days.
Hiking Poles
The wind on two days of the trek in Patagonia literally lifted me up and slammed me forward, it was so strong. My hiking poles saved my face by helping me with balance. They also help tremendously for going downhill, especially if your knees tend to bother you on long hikes, or if this is the first one you’re attempting.
Like with the tent poles, sturdy but light ones are great to have along. Cheap ones break quickly. These are the ones I used.
Waterproof Your Backpack
A rain cover isn’t very useful in Patagonia. Due to the wind, they either blow right off or make tons of noise in your ears as the wind runs through them. Since the wind seriously does reach 100km/hour and over, they can blow right off and then become litter in the park. Nobody wants that!
The solution is to line your backpack with a bin liner/trash bag and to wrap everything inside in its own bag as well.
It’s okay if the backpack gets wet. It’ll dry out in the wind and they’re made to be resilient. The stuff inside will stay dry with the double bag protection. Happy days!
What Should You Eat?
All the powdered food!
I know that’s not very exciting, but in all seriousness, cans, packaged sauces, and anything that creates a lot of waste will be heavy and annoying on the trail. Food is the heaviest item on an 8-day trek, so it’s essential to cut weight wherever possible. There’s so much water available everywhere along the trail, flowing from every glacier and stream, so buying things that just need to be rehydrated works best.
It’s also helpful to pack lunches that don’t need to be cooked that you can snack on while moving or during short breaks. I’d suggest fruit and nuts. They pack lots of energy and calories for their weight.
Here’s my food list for 8 days (consider that portions depend on your personal food intake, and keep in mind you’ll be exercising a lot):
- 1 portion per day of oatmeal with powdered milk, milo, and dried fruit inside
- 16 bags of tea
- 2-3 kilos of nuts and dried fruit for lunches
- 16 Snickers bars (oh yeah I did)
- 150 grams of pasta, couscous, or powdered mashed potatoes for dinner per night +1 emergency pasta (just in case)
- 8 packets of dried soup + dried pasta sauce (tomato soup also works)
- Small amounts of cheese or salami to flavor pasta (or herbs and dried veggies, if you can find them, if you’re plant-based)
You can buy all of the food you’ll need in the shops in Puerto Natales. I urge you to shop at the small, independent grocers and split your shopping between a few stores. There’s even a dedicated fruit and nut shop with dried mango and melon!
6. What Else to Bring (and How to Lighten Your Load)
So what else goes into your pack? Chances are 80% of it will be full with food, and I’d also bring along:
- 1 small first-aid kit
- Only 2 changes of clothes – one for hiking and one for sleeping (yes you will wear the same nasty hiking clothes each day – there’s no point in bringing more clothing because the new stuff will get sweaty and smelly within the first five minutes of your hike anyways). However bring one extra pair of socks and enough underwear for the trip.
- 1 small and lightweight sleeping bag. These can get costly, I know! But you will want something that doesn’t weigh much and can keep you warm in sub-zero temps, which you might encounter on the trek.
- 1 SteriPEN – the amount of park visitors has been increasing by 30% year over year. People don’t always respect the rules around water (i.e.: no bathing or washing directly in the streams) and some people have gotten sick from the water at Campamento Torres. You can avoid any issues by sterilizing your water.
- 1 thick sleeping mat
- 2-3 gas canisters for cooking with the small grill on top (dependent on how much tea you’ll drink or if you bring rice or longer-cooking foods)
- 1 foldable, lightweight pasta strainer and pot combo
- A good knife
- 1 pack towel
- 1 hat for sun protection and to keep your ears warm
- sunglasses
- Camp shoes to give your feet a break from hiking shoes when in camp
- 1 headlamp
- 1 battery power pack
- Something to put water in. I chose a CamelBak.
- Small toiletries and sunscreen!
I also brought along my camera, of course, and several extra camera batteries. You can find out more about my camera equipment here.
You can lighten your load by eating at some of the refugios. The food is great at Refugio Dickson, in particular.
You can also buy some supplies as you go along. Don’t count on it, but know that it’s often possible to get more food and snacks if necessary.
7. Bathrooms and Showers
Some camps have nice, hot showers that you can use along the trek. It’s much easier to get some shower time in the less crowded camps that are not part of the W, though some of the larger refugios on the W part have more bathroom options.
I’ve seen a huge difference in the size of the refugios and availability of restrooms and showers since the first time I did the trek. Everything is growing and the facilities are only getting better. My absolute favorite shower was at Frances, and the worst is still Los Perros, which is cold and not worth it!
The free camps don’t have amenities like showers and sometimes don’t have toilets that flush, but they’re typically in really beautiful settings (and they’re free!).
8. How to Pace Yourself/Itinerary Planning
How many days should you spend on the trail? How long will it take you to complete? I’ve done it two ways, spending 8 days hiking and 9 days. In both cases, the day that I crossed the John Gardner Pass was the longest, most exhausting day. The big difference between the two was splitting up the day that followed into two the second time around.
The days on the back end of the O are pretty long, and you never really know what kind of weather you may get, so a buffer can be a good idea just in case. I personally am always happy to spend more time in nature, but if you’re pressed for time, you can do it all in 8 days.
I have a day-to-day itinerary here! You can also download the PDF below:
9. Leaving No Trace
We can’t talk about backpacking in the wilderness without discussing leaving no trace. The biggest issue right now in Torres del Paine is erosion of the trails. It may not seem like a big deal, but ‘social trails’ left by people trying to avoid mud can cause irreparable damage. Unless I’m going to get totally soaked or covered in mud, I step right in the mud and keep going. My shoes are waterproof so it’s no problem, right?
The water in Patagonia is some of the cleanest in the world, yet some camps have had to close down due to sanitation issues. Why does this happen? Please keep the following in mind to do your part:
- Never wash dishes, clothes, or yourself in rivers. It has to flow to somewhere, right? Take water at least 200 feet/61 meters away first.
- Please only use the bathrooms on the trail unless it’s an absolute emergency, and always pack out your TP.
- Don’t swim in the rivers or lakes. It’s prohibited in Torres del Paine.
10. Avoiding Crowds at Las Torres
The Towers are the park’s most popular feature. Most day hikers who are only going to see one thing in the park hike to The Towers. Given that, it can be hard to see them without a crowd of other people, so here are some tips:
Go twice and at off-times:
I know that you might think I’m crazy for suggesting this, especially after the long hike to get to the camp at the base of the Torres, but it’s so worth climbing up to the top twice if you have time – once in the afternoon and once in the morning for sunrise. If you can’t get reservations at Chileno for the final night, you may not have much of a choice. Nobody is allowed to attempt to hike up after 3pm. This is to make sure nobody camps up there, which is fair TBH.
However if you run out of time, you can always make it back up for the morning from Campamento Central or Chileno.
My tip for avoiding the crowds is to go up while it’s still dark before the sun rises. However I would NOT recommend this alone and if you do decide to go, it’s best to go with someone who has already been up there. I led a group up to the top and it’s good that I already knew the way. When it’s dark all you have to go on are the reflective markers.
That said, we got to the top around 5am to see the Milky Way going right through The Towers and nobody was there yet. Most people show up throughout the day starting with the sunrise.
11. How Hard is the O Really?
It’s hard to rate the difficulty of a trek, since such things are subjective, but I’d say the O Circuit in Torres del Paine is a moderate trek. Some days are pretty long, however, and you’ll be on your feet for most of the day, which can be exhausting.
The hardest part for me is coming down from the John Gardner Pass since it’s such a long and steep downhill. Others also feel that the Torres are a tough ending as well.
It takes about 30-45 minutes to climb to the base of the Torres from the Las Torres ranger station and about 2-3 hours from Chileno. It’s steep, but if you’ve already done Fitz Roy, I can assure you it’s not nearly as bad.
Besides, moving keeps you warm. It was snowing when I reached the base of the Torres in late March the first time!
12. Treat Yourself to More Days in the Park Afterwards
I stayed at the Hotel Las Torres in the park right after the trek both times I’ve done it now and it was the best decision ever. The food was great (it’s all-inclusive) as were the drinks and the activities. They even grow all of their own veggies in an organic garden, which is SO WELCOME after 8 days of trail food.
It’s so nice to stay somewhere comfortable for a few days after finishing an 8-day trek, and though this is definitely fancier than a tent, it’s a really welcome change. I also really liked that it included horseback riding and some treks that aren’t on the usual TDP menu (you can book a stay here).
One huge benefit of staying at the Hotel Las Torres, apart from the comfort, is access to this amazing viewpoint.
It’s called the Puma trek and it sits on the hotel’s property. It’s also one of the steepest and toughest treks in the entire park. We went there the day after finishing the 8-day trek and I was definitely sore after!
13. Take a Full Paine Tour Afterwards
The day after the trek I’ve done a full Paine bus tour with the Hotel Las Torres twice now, and twice I loved it. There’s just no better way to see the parts of the experience you miss from the trail. There are so many different angles and views that you get by covering more ground with the tour, and it’s a nice chance to let your body take a break, too.
There are a lot of picturesque places in the park that you don’t see when trekking on the Circuit trails. The park is absolutely full of lakes of all colors, glaciers, different viewpoints, and even waterfalls.
The full Paine tour also includes a boat trip to the Grey Glacier, for yet another great perspective.
Most of this is accessible by car, so in lieu of renting one yourself and driving it through the park, you can take a day tour from Puerto Natales or in my case, as part of staying at the Hotel Las Torres.
Happy trekking!
Read More
The 10 Best Hikes in Patagonia
The Perfect Patagonia Packing List for Women
Patagonia Itineraries for 1 Week to 1 Month
*Some links in this post are affiliate links. Any purchase you make through these links gives me a small commission at no cost to you. This post was also brought to you in collaboration with the Hotel Las Torres. All reviews on this site are always sincere.
Anne says
Wow, this looks fantastic! I’m too old to hike this but Patagonia is absolutely on my bucket list!
Kristin says
I met two 60-somethings on the trail and they were faster than I was! You could definitely still do the Paine Grande tour, though. No hiking involved 🙂
Sonja Riemenschneider says
Thanks for this really thorough guide! I’m wondering, did you rent or buy any of your trekking gear (poles, tent, etc) locally or did you bring it from “home”? Wondering if it is worth lugging camping gear around Chile for the 4 weeks I’ll be there prior to doing Patagonia. Thanks!
Kristin says
I bought a sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and hiking poles in Chile and everything else I brought from home. I actually used the camping gear all throughout Patagonia and it would also be useful in Easter Island as well, and maybe even the Atacama desert, so it might be worth it. It’s not cheaper to buy in Chile and DEFINITELY don’t buy anything in Argentina!
Adrian says
Hi Kristin,
I’ve enjoyed your post very much. I am planning my own trekk to Torres del Paine an dto Mt Fitzroy. Your tips come in very handy. Thanks for sharing.
Why are you saying “don’t buy anything in Argentina”?
Cheers,
Adrian
Kristin says
I just mean don’t buy your gear in Argentina because it’s the most expensive place you can buy it. However the currency fluctuates a lot there so that advice could change at any time. When I was there prices of things were insane.
Barbora Doslikova says
Thanks for the wonderful article, Kristin. I have done the W track myself and have to absolutely 100% agree with ALL your recommendations! I wish I could go back for the big O, after seeing your photos 🙂
I’m now in Chiang Mai by the way, living the good digital nomad life 🙂 Anyway, thank you for all your inspiring and informative articles and photos, I can’t say how much I enjoy following your journey.
Kristin says
Thanks for the wonderful comment, Barbora! The W is a great trek itself, and I’d definitely recommend that to anyone visiting TDP with limited time. Enjoy Chiang Mai! Oh how I miss Thai food!
Michelle says
Hi,
Thanks for the great article. This is definitely on my bucket list for next year. I was wondering though, how hard is it for a solo female to trek in Patagonia? I wish I had a friend that would come with me, but schedules never seem to work out. I’ve trekked in New Zealand solo and with friends in Nepal. Also, how much Spanish is really necessary to get around in Chile? I’m a beginner and was going to start studying it again. Good tip about the gear. I’m planning on bringing all of it with me from the US.
Kristin says
Hey Michelle, it just depends on where in Patagonia you are because some trails are more remote and have way fewer trekkers. That said, I met a few solo trekkers (both joined me at one point) and I really feel that when you put yourself out there, you’ll find people. This was the first trip in over 3 years that I took with someone else (Steve) and before that I went to Nepal solo and met someone on the bus on my way to start the trek and we became great friends. This ain’t your first rodeo, you’ll be able to meet others.
You will struggle without knowing some Spanish. I’m a beginner too and I was able to get around, but definitely keep practicing because it’ll only help you. The toughest thing for me is I can understand almost everything but I can’t respond!
Helen Davies says
This looks incredible! I’ll get to do it one day hopefully and definitely using your guide (and all the others)!
xx
Kristin says
I think so too. There seems to be an endless amount of trails!
Rose Wang says
Hi Kristin!
Your adventures look amazing!
I’m Rose from Sydney!
I’m planning to do the W track in Feb next year, and wanted to ask you a few questions
I was wondering about the Puma Track that you mentioned that you did during your stay at hotel la torres. Which horse trails it it part of? I see the hotel offers several horse riding trails. Also how long would this track take to do, as I’m wondering if I can make it for the afternoon shuttle back to Natales.
Do you know if the puma track is accessble to visitors that don’t stay at the hotel?
thanks so much for answering my queries!
Rose
Kristin says
I’m pretty sure you have to stay at the hotel, and it’s an all day thing. Would be hard to do the puma trail and get on a bus after. You can show them the photo on this page and they will know exactly which trek you want to do 🙂
Theresa Tran says
Hi Kristin!
Where did you get your white visor headband?!
Kristin says
China!
Hala says
Hi Kristin,
Thanks so much for your great post and for sharing your beautiful photos! I’m looking at going to Patagonia next year and I have about 2 weeks. I am trying to decide whether to do the full Torres Del Paine O or whether to do the W and couple it with a some hikes around El Chatelan as well as a visit to Perito Moreno. Am I trying to do too much?
Kristin says
Hi Hala, You could probably make it work if you are OK with not having rest days, which can be tough. I wrote out some itinerary options here which should help: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/patagonia-itinerary/
Anonymous says
Thank you for your response and for the inspiration 🙂 I will be doing the full circuit in January next year and can’t wait!
Alfredo says
Hey, great read! I had a quick question I was hoping you could help me with. I’m headed to travel South America for a year. I want to start in Chile and the O track. Is there any place to store unnecessary gear while on the hike ? I only want to bring my essentials. But I will have other things with me for the rest of the trip that will not be needed for the O track. Any suggestions ? Thanks !!!
Kristin says
Ask the hostel you stay at before and after for a storage room. I’ve done that in every single place I’ve ever trekked and they’ve always had a space for that. They’re used to being asked.
Hangyel Kim says
Hi Kristin!
Thank you for your kind post.
I heard that since 2016 the CONAF limits the number of people on the circuit to 80 per day, so I have to make reservation ahead of time at the CONAF office in Puerto Natales.
Did you also get the reservation? And, if you did, do you know any way to reserve it in advance in online? I’m afraid the reservation will be fulled quickly at January.
Kristin says
I’ve heard about that, and they stopped requiring them at the time of year that I went. You might already have issues, unfortunately. I’d check in with Erratic Rock in Puerto Natales and ask if they can help you out.
Alysha says
Hey Kristin!
This article is so incredibly helpful! Thanks for sharing all your tips. I’m planning on doing the O Circuit with a friend in December and I’ve never done an overnight hike before and have been relying on great tips like this one to help.
One question: where do you leave all the rest of your stuff you won’t use when doing the hike? I plan on taking just a few pairs of clothes with me to hike but have 3 more months of travel afterwards through South America. I don’t want it all weighing down my pack!
Any suggestions?
Kristin says
Glad you have found the advice to be helpful! You can leave your stuff at the hostel or hotel that you stay at before your trip. I’d also suggest staying with them after as well, just as a thank you for keeping your stuff. They’re used to doing this and should have a storage room for you. You can verify with whoever you choose to stay with ahead of time if you like. I use a wire mesh bag protector to lock it all up for peace of mind as well since I tend to have a computer and other valuables in there: http://amzn.to/2eXdFDi
AGlobalGirl says
Hi Kristin,
We’re doing the Circuit in a month, and I saw your note about wire bag lock. Is theft an issue at the refugiosif you leave your bag in the tent, e.g. during dinner, shower etc ? Do I need to always take the essentials with me passport, camera & phone?
Thank you!
Kristin says
I don’t take my bag lock trekking, though I did lock my valuables that I didn’t take hiking up at the hotel while I was gone trekking for those 8 days.
Michelle says
Hi Kristin!
This write up is awesome. I am looking at doing the 8 day trek at the end of March, and I was wondering about renting gear. You mentioned that there are gear shops that rent gear. Do you know which are the good shops? I was planning on renting a tent and a sleeping bag because I plan to visit more countries in South America, and don’t want to carry around the excess weight. And I’m not sure about purchasing the MSR tent now; it’s fairly pricey, even in the US. Thanks again.
Kristin says
Erratic rock rents out equipment and since it’ll be the end of March, which is when I went as well, it won’t be as busy in the park and they should have stuff to rent.
Kristin says
I used a 70L and yes the wind will be a big problem for things strapped to the outside. It got up to 100km per hour! This is normal there, so go bigger if you can.If you’re just doing the W and don’t need as much food you might be able to fit everything into yours. I didn’t completely fill my pack and it was 8 days worth of food and such inside.
Nicole says
Hi, you now have to book all of your camping before you start either the W or the circuit! We only came across this in a blog a couple of months ago and really struggled. Luckily we are on a long trip and could push our itinerary back by 10 days to work around availability. Crucial info for anyone thinking about Torres del Paine!
Kristin says
Hi Nicole, during high season that’s definitely true. That’s noted near the top of the post, and you have to get permits for the park as well (also only during high season). It’s new thing as the park has become more and more popular. Glad you were able to push back the timing and I hope you have a great time!
Sunmi says
awesome info! im doing the o circuit this march and everything you wrote here is a great help. I screen captured almost everything so I don’t forget anything 🙂 thank you very much for your time
Kristin says
Awesome! I’m so glad that you found it helpful. Let me know how it goes for you! I also went in march and it was great 🙂 (ok it rained but that’s normal in Patagonia!)
Asha Nelson says
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for the article! I am hoping to hike the O circuit over 6 nights 7 days end of March but I am traveling solo and feel nervous about doing the hike alone. Did you meet a lot of people hiking end of March? How was the weather at this time of year? Is 6 nights 7 days okay if I am physically fit but haven’t done much overnight hiking trips?
I’m suddenly getting nervous and am finding planning quite difficult.
Thanks,
Asha
Kristin says
You won’t be alone. Plan for rain and dress warmly, which would be true any time of year but especially then as it will be getting colder, but the leaves will also start changing and that’s beautiful! I think you should give it 8 days at least. That’s how long it took me and I’m pretty experienced, and I pushed it.
Lauren says
Hi Kristin!
Thank you so much for all of this wonderful info! My husband and I are planning to hike the full circuit next December! We have one question: where is your last picture taken (the one overlooking a lake and bridge)? It’s an absolutely beautiful view, and we’d love to see it in addition to the trek!
Thanks!
Kristin says
That was from the full paine tour with the Hotel Las Torres. It’s something you’d either need a tour or a car to see and it’s of the other hotel in the park 🙂
Rachelle says
Hi Kristen – I am considering visiting Torres Del Paine alone (40th birthday!) in the second week of September this year. I wouldn’t call myself an experienced hiker necessarily and definitely don’t have camping experience. Looking at your photos, I really want to do the O, but as someone who suffers from back, neck and shoulder issues, I am concerned about carrying too much weight especially given the wind and cold. I think I’ll be fine as a single woman, but is there ANY way I can do the O without needing to carry a tent, sleeping bag and a pad? In other words, are there places where you can rent these things along the way and get someone to help pitch the tent on the spot? I guess once I get to the W part, it will be refugios all the way so I don’t’ have to worry about food and such.
Any input would be really appreciated!
Thanks,
Rachelle
Kristin says
Yes, when you are in town before you go, stop by erratic rock and ask them to help you get reservations at the Refugios. That’s what I would do. Have fun!
Anne says
Great info! I checked your site and others long time ago to had an idea about torres del pain.
I went to do the trekking about a month and a half ago, but we needed a guide to do the W (now is mandatory for winter season) so we went to a place called Rental Natales and the owner help us to find more people and share the cost of the guide! It was incredible!
They have really good equipment also, we rented everything from there and had an amazing camping experience, we were glad that we didn’t rented from Erratic Rock like another couple, they had such as smelly and dirty equipment and they were cold most of the nights.
After the trek we rented a car and visited laguna azul, very beautiful! (thanks for that tip)
thanks
Anne and Lukas
Kristin says
Thanks for the info! Cool to know it’s awesome in the winter too.
Nick says
I’m looking into doing this hike. A lot of preparation but i like that. Thanks for the information!
Tereza says
Your page helps me a lot! THANK YOU for that, but there is still some questions and I´d be super happy if you help me with that also 😉
I got info about limited number of visitors at Torres del Paine NP, is that true? If yes, where can I buy ticket before I come to Chile..?
Do I have to sleep in campground in the Torres del Paine NP or can I find my own place for tent?
If I have to be on campground, can I reserve all the spots online?
Can I buy all the bus tickets on bus stations one day before?
I saw info about food – it´s strictly prohibited to bring my own food to the Chile, is that right? What about jerky, nuts, granola etc.? If I can´t have anything from US, can I buy everything in Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas or is even better buy everything in Santiago (I expect limited kilos in domentic flights) ..?
Thx and have a perfect day,
Tereza
Kristin says
You need a permit for TdP if you’re going during high season. I was there in March and didn’t need one anymore. As far as I know you apply for that in person. I did link info on booking camping in the post. You cannot sleep outside of the campgrounds.
I bought my bus tickets a day or two before, but during high season you might want to book a few days ahead. For some companies you can do this online.
You definitely can’t bring nuts and meat into Chile. I bought all of mine there and it wasn’t that expensive, plus you can support the local grocers which is a nice thing to do.
Cara says
Hi there! I have developed a bunch of questions as I’ve started planning my trip to Torres del Paine. I have booked my flight for December 21-January 6 and plan to complete the Circuit during that time. I’ve done solo hikes and plenty of solo traveling, but I have never done this lengthy of a hike alone. I am already using your tips to plan but have a couple questions. You somewhat touched on this in your blog, but do you think there are any issues with being a single female completing the trek? I speak Spanish well enough. Also, you mentioned using an MSR tent. I have a Big Agnes 2 person. I plan to upgrade my poles before taking the trip. Do you have any other tips for essential gear?
Some guides suggest reserving an extra night at the sites to plan for perhaps not being able to complete the John Gardner Pass on the planned day due to weather. Did you have any issues like that? I also want to stay in the Hotel Torres on the last night but am hesitant to make a reservation due to the idea of perhaps falling behind a day due to weather. Thoughts?
I have 2 unplanned days at the end of my hike. I really want to try to push it and head over to Argentina. Is this totally unrealistic to think I could go over there and scoot back to Punta Arenas to catch a flight?
One last thing. Would you be willing to share the itinerary you followed? I thing I have it nailed down but would love to hear the route you used for comparison.
I really appreciate any help or tips folks can provide. 🙂 All the best!!
Kristin says
There will be a lot of people on the trek and I would personally do it alone without worrying 🙂
Here’s my Patagonia packing list https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/womens-patagonia-packing-list/
The earlier in the morning you leave Perros to attempt the pass the better the weather is likely to be but it is possible that it could be impassable. No way to know, unfortunately. I would ask the hotel how flexible they can be in case that happens. Here’s what I did:
Day 1. Hotel to Seron
Day 2. Seron to Dickson
Day 3. Dickson to Los Perros
Day 4. Los Perros to Refugio Grey – this was a long day
Day 5. Refugio Grey to Italiano
Day 6. Italiano to Los Cuernos
Day 7. Los Cuernos to Camp Torres
Day 8. Torres then down to the hotel
You could get private transport from the hotel, if you do their full package, and get a transfer right to El Calafate in Argentina in about a half a day. Otherwise don’t bother with only 2 days because you’ll have to take some public buses and it will probably not be doable in that short amount of time. I assume you want to do this in order to see Perito Moreno. It’s worth it.
Cara says
Thank you so much for all of the information! I am so excited and lucky to benefit from all of the information shared online! One last random question… what kind of camera/lens did you use for your photos?
Kristin says
this one: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/best-travel-camera-2017/
ARia says
Read your blog a lot before I went and was awestruck with your photos. Now looking back at this (sending to a friend who’s going), all my photos look the same!! The beauty is really that capture-able!!
Iulia says
Dear Kristin,
First of all, congrats for your inspirational travel blog and for the beautiful places you’ve visited so far!
I’m writing you with regards to my upcoming trip which will be in Argentina/ Chile (especially in Patagonia) where I will be traveling with my husband.
We have a problem in finding accommodation for a few nights in Torres del Paine in the beginning of January 2018. We’ve started our search since October but everything is fully booked apparently.
I can’t imagine though that we won’t be able to visit the park (W circuit) due to the lack of accommodation (there is a rather recent rule for visiting the park stating that you have to present when entering the park a proof of the accommodation you’ve booked).
I really suspect that this is a method for driving the tourists to book private guided tours that offer a full package (including accommodation) at an exorbitant price (e.g. $800/person).
Could you please help me with any advice you have for finding accommodation or a tour at a decent price?
Thank you so much,
Iulia
Kristin says
Hi Lulia, what about the campsites? I believe you do still need to reserve them ahead of time but maybe it’s still possible.
Unfortunately, the park is exploding in popularity and my guess is that they truly are booked, and that these tour companies just booked out these spots way ahead of time knowing that would happen.
Belinay Hilal says
Thanks for sharing this great post. I really loved your photos. I am traveling to Patagonia, Chile in Jan 2018 with my family and planning to hike the W Circuit of Torres del Paine National Park. I got much helpful information about Torres Del Paine in this post. I have already booked my trip with a travel company ChileTour Patagonia. This is my 1st time adventures trip in Chile and we want to enjoy a lot in that Torres del Paine National Park. I am very excited to visit beautiful places in Chile.
Francesco Zoleo says
Hi Kristin,
this is Francesco nice to meet you I come from Naples but I live in UK.
Congratulation for your blog and travel.
I am planning a trip top Torres del Paine in March.
My plan is:
Seron 03/4
Dikson 03/05
Los Perros 03/06
Paso Campo 03/07
Paine Grande 03/08
Campo Italiano 03/09
Torres Ranger Station 03/10
Torres Ranger Station to the Hotel Puerto Natal/Punta Arenas on the 03/11
I am doing the full circuit could be between 7 to 9/10 days. Might add extra days/Refugio, I will see.
Well I wouldn’t say I am on budget….but for what I am reading online….there is a chance to do this tour almost for free, like just touch all the free Refugio…..but you need to walk for long days….I might try this.
Do you know which free Refugio I should choose to make the full circuit or I can follow your itinerary as well. Also before that, there are just silly money if you want do throw an Agency, thousand of dollars, cheers.
I have few question:
What you think I will have enough time to do all the circuit?
I am also booking the Refugio, I can see from the website Campmento Torres is closed, I think the main attraction of this tour is to see the sunrise at Los Torres…. so the only option is to stay Campamento Chileno, where you pay at least 100 uds…..great!
I have gears, the only things I will rent is tents and sleeping bag, and about food I will buy everything in Puerto Natal, which in all the Refugio, it is silly money…….
That’s for now.
Any advice or help will be appreciate.
Thanks and Regards,
Francesco.
Kristin says
I did 8 days for the full O, and you do have to pay to camp but it’s not much. If you only do the W then you can manage to only do free campsites but for the O you will need to pay once or twice. If you go in mid-march, check the date, you might not have to book anything ahead of time or get a permit. I was there just after the cutoff. I didn’t pay thousands of dollars – more like a hundred or so. I had my own gear but you can rent from erratic rock.
Sydney says
Hi Kristin,
I have three weeks off in March and have been trying to figure out where I want to travel. I read this particular article awhile back and now I am debating on doing the O hike.
I was wondering if I needed to know Spanish well and what website I should go to reserve the campsites? I was also wondering if it was possible to rent gear or if I am better off hauling all my camping gear with me?
Thanks,
Sydney
Kristin says
Depending on when you go in March you might not have to book ahead. I went towards the end and it was after the permit/booking season. It would help if you spoke Spanish but it’s not necessary in TdP. There is enough tourism that you can easily find English speakers. You can also rent gear at Erratic Rock.
Sydney says
Hi Kristin,
It’s Sydney again. I am trying to book the rest of my campsites through Vertice Patagonia and their website isn’t allowing me to see if their availability. I have emailed and facebooked them regarding the problem and they respond with an automatic email that isn’t related to this issue.
This is my dream trip and I want to make sure I do it right. As much as I would like to go in March I am scared if I don’t make the reservation in advance, I won’t be able to do the trek. I was wondering your thoughts and if you had any advice? I am not sure what year you went, but it seems as if it’s getting more popular and the park is harder to visit. I was planning to do the ” O circuit” March 25th to April 2nd.
Kristin says
Hmm, I went right around that time 2 years ago and it was after the required permitting time, so I didn’t book anything in advance and I wasn’t required to. I never had any problems. I also carried my own gear so all I needed was a plot of ground for camping. That might be why. Next I would try calling them just to see if that works better. If you have a Spanish-speaking friend who can make the call for you that would be best.
Robert Keller says
Hey there Kristin. You ROCK! You are such an inspiration! I really Love how you’re living your life….After all, we only get 1 life to live, and this one isn’t a dress rehearsal. I really appreciate all the work that you put into this site; there’s a wealth of information. It has helped much.
My questions to you are more technical in nature. Is there a map showing distances between the various campsites? How about elevation deltas? A Topo map would be helpful too. This info would help me enormously. I am a real backpacker who regular goes backpacking in the woods on multi-day trips, without and sort of campsite or support. I always follow the “Leave no trace” guidelines. In reading your blog here, its too bad that I won’t be allowed to camp out in the “Bush”. Have you heard of anyone “Ghost” or “Stealth” camping in the park?
Thanks, Robert
Kristin says
Hey Robert – the trail is very easy to find. In fact if you manage to get lost I’d be impressed. My buddy Steve did a nice campsite map on his site: https://www.back-packer.org/trekking-guide-how-to-hike-the-circuit-in-torres-del-paine-patagonia-chile/
As for bush camping: The reason why they’re not OK with it is two major fires that were caused by campers in the past. They both devastated the park and you can still see the evidence of both when you hike. They only want people to camp and cook in designated areas – the wind is just too strong and if one thing goes wrong it becomes unmanageable very quickly. Fair enough, right?
Thanks for the kind words by the way!
Calin says
Howdy, Kristin!
Your solo female travel blog is incredibly helpful for an aspiring solo female trekker like myself! I’ve been on a couple of journeys solo and have recently booked a trip down to Patagonia to tackle the O Circuit from April 3-10, 2018. I’ve emailed Vertice Patagonia (one of the campamento booking websites), and they told me that all of their campsites typically on the O circuit will be closed by the end of March. I’m worried 🙁 Does this mean I can no longer plan to do the full O itinerary? Or is there a way you know of to still go for it?
Any feedback would be extremely helpful! Keep on inspiring! 😀
Kristin says
Weird – I went at the end of March. I know it’s weather dependent of course but it’s possible you might want to move it up a week or two if you can just to be sure.
Imo Bell says
What an awesome blog post! So grateful for your effort in sharing this knowledge. My parent and I are new to hiking but will be doing the W in mid April. I’ve not been able to find the answer to this (perhaps naive) question – should we have a plan for what to do if a blizzard comes through when we are between Refugios? We won’t have a tent so are concerned about safety planning. Is this likely to happen and if so, what would be the general way to handle it? Thanks in advance!
Kristin says
Usually you’ll get delayed. If it’s more severe I’m not actually sure.
Catherine Zamora Barbosa says
Hi! How safe is it to do the W trek as a woman alone? How can I find accommodation along the trek if I want to avoir camping?
Thanks
Kristin says
You can find refugios but you need to book them as far in advance as possible to get a space. I would do it alone no problem. There are lots of other hikers with you so you never have to be alone 🙂
Courtenay says
Hi,
I was just wondering what do you do with all of your other clothes etc. That you don’t need for the hike? I noticed you only mentioned your hiking gear and food
Thanks!
Kristin says
Stored them at the Hotel Las Torres where I stayed after the hike. They have a storage room. Otherwise store in town at the guesthouse you stay at before your trek and obviously book them for after as well to make it worth it for them to store your stuff.
Maria says
Hi Kristin,
I’m doing the full circuit at the end of December-January; plan is to stay at the Hotel Las Torres afterwards – do they let you store your things there for free if you are staying with them? I also have a guesthouse that I’m staying at before/after that I could keep the gear.
Finally – what excursions did you take at the Hotel? Definitely want to include horseback riding but also looking at your pictures – I want to see those views and the waterfalls. Suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Kristin says
Yes you can store your things there – I did. I did the Full Paine and the Las Pumas and one day of horseback riding – did 3 in total 🙂
Eiemar says
a great blog.
We are planning on doing the W trek in the first week in november.
We are looking at camping as an option of accommodation instead of the refugios.
Would you recommended camping or would it be very cold with one sleeping bag.
Thanks in advance
Kristin says
If you have a sleeping bag that can handle it then you’re good!
Debbie says
If You have few days, you can do one tour called “full day” , in 6 hours you can go to the “base torres ” ( is the only point where you can see the towers) but is a hard tracking
Kristin says
If you go with the hotel las torres you can take horses for part of it as well.
Ema Ille says
Hey there . Have one question. I want to go in November for the full circuit , but camp Grey is full. They told me you can’t skip two camping places because they won’t let you in. I mean, it is there like a guardian of the Park and he/she will check your every reservation and won’t let you even if you want to sleep maybe next to a tree for a night or something like that ?:)
Kristin says
You have to camp in designated camping areas. If you skip I suppose that’s proof to them that you camped outside of a designated area and yes they are VERY strict about that because they’ve had two massive fires in the parks in the past from people cooking and now everyone has to cook in the same sheltered area to prevent it from happening again. They limit numbers because there’s only so much space and facilities. It gets more popular and harder to get camping spots each year unfortunately.
Simon says
HI! The photos are amaaaaazing!
I’m planning to do this, is there enough wood on the trek so I can be OK with a twig stove?
Thanks!
Simon
Kristin says
That’s a huge no-no in TdP. They’ve had two massive fires so nobody is allowed to cook outside of the cooking areas in camps and it has to be a gas stove.
In general in Patagonia you can’t burn any wood you find since there’s not enough of it to regenerate the topsoil if it gets burned, plus the wind is so crazy fires get out of control really fast. Hope that helps!
marie-eve says
Hi there !
What an amazing article ! I have a question regarding the places that are only accessible by car.
We are doing the W circuit from Refugio Grey to hotel las torres.
We would like to go to the campground Pehoe after that and do some day hike around there (or wherever it’s beautiful) but we were wondering how we can do it if we arrive by bus the first day.
Renting a car from Puerto Natales on day 1 and leave it there for 5 days without using it seems expensive just to have freedom a couple days after the W circuit.
Do we have other options ?
thank you
Kristin says
You can probably book a day tour in town which might be cheaper, camp overnight there, then get transport to wherever you want to start hiking the next day.
Günter says
Hi,
i m intending to do the O in March 2018. Is it possible to stay at a place for 2 days or even longer? Im 66 then but in a good condition. .
Thank you for some information
Günter
Kristin says
Should be, you just have to book ahead of time.
Günter says
Hi, thank you
which places are worth staying for more than 1 night?
Kristin says
I would personally finish the trek then stay at the Hotel Las Torres for more than one night.
Günter says
Thank you Kirstin,
how many rainy days did you have? Are the bookingpages reliable?
Kristin says
It rains almost daily but it comes and goes. That’s Patagonia!
Olive says
Hi,
Thank you so much for sharing this! It’s really helpful. Just a question, if we want to travel on November of next year. When would recommend to start booking campsites? I cant seem to figure out if you can just book anytime for the 2019-2020 season now or there’s a specific time when you can start booking for the 2019-2020 season?
Your help would be much appreciated!
Regards,
Olive
Kristin says
That I’d ask the companies directly for info on since I’m really not sure about when to book and the best timing. That changes all the time.
Dly says
Hi there, I am doing TDP O circuit in March. Did you prepacked your meal at home before you travel in Chile, did you had any problem getting them check in the airport. I planned to dehydrate my own meal to be cost effective. Do you have any recommendations?
Kristin says
I’d be careful with that because they’re super strict about bringing food into the country. Any meat, vegetables, cheese, etc. is not allowed. I recommend buying food locally. I’m not sure it’s really that much more than at home to be honest.
Emily says
Hi Kristin! A year and a half ago, having just come off the Inca Trail, I googled best treks in the world and came upon your Torres del Paine post. I can’t even count the number of times my sister and I read this post as we prepared for the O Circuit. We just completed it 3 weeks ago and it was one of the most incredible experiences! Your advice and input was spot on. I enjoy following your blog and your Instagram, thanks for sharing your travel stories!
Kristin says
Yayyyy that’s awesome! So lovely to hear that. Thank you for coming back to comment and letting me know!!
Rachel says
Thank you for the wonderful details and inspiration. I would like to save money by camping and bringing my own gear on the O trek. However, is it necessary to bring gas canisters and a small grill for cooking? Is there any chance the refugios simply provide hot water so that I can rehydrate/cook instant meals?
Kristin says
Hi Rachel! Glad you like the post. I think you probably should bring your own grill and canister. Some might be happy to provide hot water but if any of them can’t or say no, then you’ll be in a tough situation. You might be able to ask others in camp but remember that would be using fuel they carried and they might not have enough to share.
Remi Mateo says
Great tips and info! Planning a February 2020 trip for my bday!!
amber says
Hello,
Thanks for all this awesome information!
My partner and I are planning on hiking the O in February 2020. We are still debating between bringing our own gear from Canada, which knowing that we will be travelling for 6months in south America might mean a few logisitcs. Renting in Puerto Natales or renting within the park. I see that you rented in the park, and wanted to know if you sometimes regretted not having your gear with you to be more flexible?
Thanks
Amber
Kristin says
In one case I brought all my gear from home, the first time I backpacked the O. The second time I didn’t rent the gear in the park – it was tents that were already set up and I booked them like you’d book a hotel room. They set them up for you. I definitely like not having to carry the stuff! You can only stay in campsites to flexibility on the O isn’t really an option anyways.
Kerry says
Hi Kristen,
I am trying to plan a trip to Patagonia but can’t spend more than a week there. I read in one of your posts that there are 5 trails where you can see the ice field, but the only two mentioned are Huemel and the back of the O. We don’t have time for the O and the Huemel looks to be a bit much for me.
What are the other 3? I can’t find that information anywhere!
Thanks!
Kristin says
I’m not actually sure what the others are. There are companies in El Chalten that will take you to the glacier but then you camp on and sleep on it, too. Those might be even more intense. Overall El Chalten is great though and if you want to see big glaciers, Perito Moreno is huge.
Gen says
Hi there,
What a great post! I am a 28yo Australian woman hoping to trek the O solo in February.
I wonder if you can give some indication of how busy the route usually is? I’ve done hikes in NZ where there’s 40 people per day who do the same part of the trek as you, then you all meet up again at the huts/campsites for the night, and felt totally safe doing that as there were plenty of people. Is it a bit like that on the O? Would you say it is a safe trek to walk solo as a woman?
Best wishes
Kristin says
You won’t be the only one for sure. I am hesitant to ever say hiking alone is safe because there are risks associated with it. Obviously if you have a problem and you’re alone there’s nobody around to see it. Totally your call. I do have a women’s trip in March you can join if you want to be in a group: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/solo-travel-tours/
dennis says
Hi Kristen,
My wife and I are planning to go to Patagonia and found your website extremely helpful (thank you for that). You recommended that people book ahead during peak season for Torres Del Paine. There were a ton of options and areas for camping. If we were hoping to do the 2 week trek (W, Glacier, French Valley, Torres), is there a particular order for (i) the treks and (ii) camping areas you would recommend? Fantastico Sur has multiple sectors and we weren’t sure if there was a logical order needed. Thank you!
Regards,
Dennis
Kristin says
Hi Dennis, if you do the O circuit you must do the trek in order, working reverse chronologically on a clock. Here’s an itinerary to help: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/torres-del-paine-o-circuit-itinerary/
Ruth Jordan says
My friend and I are hiking the O Circuit. He already booked everything and he sent me an Itinerary from you.
Anyway, can you help me with a few questions that I have?
I arrive in Arenas Chile (PUQ airport) at 2pm on Sunday November 24. We start the hike on Nov 26th in Seron.
How do I get from PUQ to Seron?
Where should we stay the night of Nov 24 and Nov 25?
How much money/cash should I bring?
Kristin says
You’d need to take the bus from PUQ to Puerto Natales. You can do so from the airport I’m pretty sure. The next morning, take the bus to the park and walk to seron from central camp/welcome center.
Debbie says
Thank you thank you thank you!! Such an incredible and useful post. You’ve answered questions that I’ve looked for through and through on google. I’m excited to trek this circuit in December.
Kristin says
Yay have fun!
Victoria Stephen says
Hi Kristin,
I have just come across your blog whilst researching my upcoming trip to Patagonia.
In April of 2020 I am going to pack in my job and go travelling for a few months and the general plan is to begin in Patagonia and work my way up towards Peru and then to Mexico.
I won’t lie, I am a little confused/bamboozled by all the advice out there and the websites and was hoping you might be able to help me on a few things. I hope you don’t mind but I’ve listed out some questions that I was hoping you would be able to answer some of them…
– I 100% want to do the O route. I have done Kilimanjaro and EBC and know that I can get round the O route. That being said, I don’t know how comfortable I am trekking by myself and sleeping by myself.
– How safe did you feel and did you meet people along the way?
– Are there tour groups that do the O route?
– Is the route clearly marked?
– If I stay at the pre set up tent will there be other people around and do they do food/sleeping bag etc?
– I am planning on starting my travels in June. Is that too late? I’m ok with the cold…
– How easy was it to get from the airport and arranging your permits etc?
Kristin says
There are groups that do the O. It is clearly marked and you probably will meet people, however you can’t trek it anymore after April due to snow. You’d be in Patagonia during winter if you start in June, and most trails will be impassable.
Shelby says
Thanks for this great guide! It’s been so helpful when planning our trip. You briefly mentioned the bathroom situation but I wanted to clarify so we’re fully prepared. There are bathrooms available on the trail?
Kristin says
Yes at every camp!
Sophia Nicholson says
HI Kristin,
I am looking to just do the W as I am working with some time constraints. Is it too much to go Puerto Natales > Paine Grey on Day 1 (overnight at Paine Grey), Paine Grey all the way to Camp Frances Day 2, then Day 3 go up the Frances Valley to Mirador Britanico in the morning then hike to Chileno in the afternoon? Finally Day 4 do the torres in the morning and back to puerto Natales in the afternoon?
I am a fairly quick hiker and since there is limited availability for camping I may end up staying in the refugios (which would at least lighten the pack). Just want to make sure I’m not biting off more than I can handle.
Any input is helpful, thanks!
Kristin says
Do you mean Refugio Grey or Paine Grande? If you start at Paine Grande I think yes, but then you would not have time to hike backwards towards Grey. You could consider cutting out the French valley if you really want to add on Grey.
Vivek says
great blog.. i did the O in 2012 and again this mid december.
were you able to travel with gas canisters in the flight? or you purchased them in natales?
also do you have better markings now for the path?
Kristin says
You can’t fly with gas canisters, but you can buy them on the ground. I didn’t have any trouble following the path.
Tim says
Hi Kristin – super blog overall and a great post on TDP. Thank you. At short notice I got some time off and am looking at arranging a faster-than-normal, solo O-circuit in late Feb. I realize this might just not be feasible given prior bookings. Nevertheless, would you recommend any outfitters or travel agents that are creative and would be willing to try to structure a custom trip at short notice? Many thanks in advance for your advice – Tim
Kristin says
Hey Tim – I can help you out. I’ve sent you an email.
It might be hard to get bookings last minute, but we can try to be creative 🙂
Rachael Jipp says
Thank you so much for the great post! Your photos look incredible! Hopefully I will be able to do the circuit next year!
Kristin says
I hope so too!
Karen says
Hi Kristin,
Do you also have a budget overview for this hike?
Thanks!
Kristin says
I don’t but it really comes down to whether you’re carrying your own gear and camping the whole way or not.