“When you leave Africa, as the plane lifts, you feel that more than leaving a continent you’re leaving a state of mind. Whatever awaits you at the other end of your journey will be of a different order of existence”
~ Fransesca Marciano, “Rules of the Wild”
Eastern Africa was a different ball game than Southern Africa had been. The relative availability of luxuries like WiFi, hot water, and ATMs that actually worked in South Africa, Namibia, and Zambia made way for mud huts and brown water, when it was running, that is.
Something else changed, too. Coppper-hued Namibia, with only 2 million people, was the kind of place where you could drive all day and never see another person. Eastern Africa, on the other hand, is heavily populated. This meant an increase in traffic, but also an increase of towns and people as I passed by. People who, just about every time they saw the truck, started waving and smiling.
I stopped reading books and instead turned my body towards the window just so that I could wave to each person in kind. children and adults alike would raise a hand and wave, playing outside of the mud huts and seeking shelter from the midday sun in the overhanging palm fronds.
I don’t know why they wave, as I didn’t often encounter this type of courtesy coming from a place in California where I hardly knew my neighbors. Perhaps it’s not every day that they see foreigners passing through. Perhaps it’s just what they do there, to each other as well.
Because it’s such a novel concept, it’s that much more special for me when someone acknowledges my existence in the world, and I do the same in return. We connect wordlessly for that millisecond in time.
The days driving through Malawi and Tanzania were long, and when the time finally came to board the ferry and cross into Zanzibar, I was ready for the beach break.
Zanzibar appears in person just as it does in the photos: white sand, aquamarine waters, and sideways sail boats.
The days were spent lounging on the rope and wooden chaise chairs, SCUBA diving in the clear waters with octopus and Napoleon Wrasse (with Zanzibar watersports, which I’d recommend if you find yourself there), and joking around with the locals who live in the area.
Nights were spent dancing at reggae bars with local Masaai, dressed in draped red checkered regalia, and talking about life in the villages with a new friend I’d made on the beach, Niko.
We’d bonded when he came up to my friend Maddie and I (a girl I’d met on the overland safari), and we spent a good hour lightheartedly joking around and discussing his beaded bracelets and negotiating the price for a rainbow one. He saw me as a friend after that, expressing sadness when I left three days later.
My final night, I waded out into the calm, warm ocean alone, leaving Niko and Maddie on the sand.
It was a particularly soft sunset, if that makes any sense. It was the type that seems to move more slowly than normal, like the day isn’t interested in ending. The waveless water was so calm, it all blended together as the sun dipped below the horizon. For a good half hour, everything was bathed in golden light.
Standing in the water, the temperature inside even warmer than outside, I thanked Africa for the four months of growth. I thanked it for opening my eyes to another world I never knew existed. At times it was heartbreaking, bewildering, and shocking, and at other times uplifting, delightful, and heart-warming.
The next morning I left the truck behind and made my way, solo, back to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania to board my flight home to Berlin. Sitting in hours of traffic (the city is renowned for it), sweating through my clothes and swatting away mosquitoes, I should have been perfectly happy to leave Africa behind in a cloud of dust. Yet I couldn’t feel anything but grateful. I couldn’t help but feel unprepared to leave. Africa had grown on me and me on Africa. I left behind roots and little pieces of my being there.
Asante Sana (thank you so much), Africa. If I’d left this earth without seeing you for my own eyes, then I would have missed out on a precious treasure.
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A note about the final 35 days of my Africa experience: I joined an overland safari truck with Acacia Africa (this is the itinerary) with a small group of others, all of whom I really enjoyed the company of and bonded with. I normally travel independently and never take tours, however this one was really special, and incredibly well-organized, hitting all of the beautiful highlights. Each member of the truck was expected to help with cooking and cleaning, and we slept in tents every night (unless we chose to sleep under the stars instead). This is the type of tour I would recommend to anyone who typically doesn’t like tours, but who is traveling solo through this area. As a lone girl mainly in countries without public transport, I saw this as my only option. I’d love to do it again with a few friends in a Land Rover, and it’s certainly on the docket for the future. However by myself, this was a great way to do it.
Some of the safari was provided at a discount, however I covered the local expenses. Even if it had all been free, or even if I had paid for it entirely, I’d say the same thing – it was a really good safari, and I plan to join them again for more in the future.
Katrina the Two Week Traveler says
I felt the same way leaving Africa too. I was so not expecting to love it the way I did. I’ve never felt so connected to a place and it’s people before and I was only there a couple weeks.
Kristin says
Totally agree. I felt such a deep connection to it. It is the origin of humankind, after all.
Visiit says
Hi Kristin,
You gave a great information with us. Keep rocking. all the best.
Katie @ Katie Wanders says
Beautiful pictures- the color of that water is so inviting. Really enjoyed your comparison of the different coasts. Thanks for sharing!
Katie @ Katie Wanders
Kristin says
Thanks Katie! Definitely interesting going from the Skeleton coast to Zanzibar and everything in between, but was beautiful.
Brooke says
I loved reading about your journey and how you changed after visiting Africa. I’ve wanted to visit Africa to have a similar experience. The tour you mentioned sounds like a great fit. I don’t often like tours, but this one sounds like you get to experience the culture and life of Africa, not just see the sites. Your pictures are beautiful and I hope I get to see it in person soon!
Kristin says
It wasn’t your typical tour and I’d say more a safari, if they can be separated like that. There was tons of wildlife-related activities but the cultural interaction happened more for me in South Africa and generally when left more to my own devices.
wanderinjon says
Great post, and beautiful pictures Kristin. I was in Tanzania and Zanzibar for 3 wks last year. The landscape and wildlife was stunning, and I felt the people were incredibly kind and optimistic about their future. Within a week of coming back, I was planning where to go next, which is Namibia for a month. I’d love to do the Rover rental as well, but as you noted, sometimes camping with a group is a good option too.
Kristin says
I really liked the group dynamic and for once, not having to make 100% of the decisions myself as well.
Silvia says
I definitely shy away from tours, but the one you took doesn’t sounds too awful! I was supposed to travel through Eastern Africa last year and plans fell through, so I’m hoping I can make it happen soon!
Kristin says
It was great and didn’t really feel like a tour all that much. After almost 3 years of calling all the shots I was about ready to let someone else take over. it was nice and an actual vacation!
Tracy says
Definitely i love your amazing photos. Thank you for sharing 🙂
Kristin says
Thanks so much, Tracy 🙂
Katie says
Hi Kristin,
Just curious, how did you find the tour group Acacia Africa? I am actually going to Tanzania myself in August, taking a course with the National Outdoor Leadership School. I looked into going to Zanzibar afterwards, but wanted to go with a group as this is my very first trip abroad and am not yet comfortable to be completely on my own. I did not come across that group in all of my googling. A few people actually discouraged me from going to Zanzibar as a solo female traveler. I have a friend who knows a few people who were mugged there as well. Ultimately I have decided to stay in the Arusha area afterwards and do a bit more site seeing around there. Maybe Zanzibar another time! It looks beautiful!
Kristin says
I found them when I was searching the term, “Safari” for Namibia and South Africa. It’s an overland safari type of thing so perhaps that’s why they came up. I think it was an excellent group and you should definitely give Zanzibar a go!
Tamara says
Looks amazing! I would love love love to go to Zanzibar (or anywhere in Africa ha)- hopefully later this year!
Kristin says
It’s lovely! Where do you most want to go?
Emma says
Jambo!;) Very informative article, thanks a lot! I’m arriving in Zanzibar next month, my first time in Tanzania. I will be staying in Makunduchi Clove Island and although the place itself is really awesome, I’m hungry for seeing new spots and doing a lot of different things. Your article inspires me!:) Lovely photos. Thanks once again! Can’t wait 🙂
Kristin says
Cool let me know how you like it!
Doris says
Jambo!.;) Very informative article, thanks a lot! I’m arriving in Zanzibar next month. I will be staying in Makunduchi (Clove Island – cloveisland.com) and although the place itself is really awesome, I’m hungry for seeing new spots and doing a lot of different things. Your article inspires me!:) Thanks once again! Can’t wait 🙂