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Solo Female Travel

I Had a Staring Contest with a Puffer Fish: Diving Perhentian Islands

06/03/2013 by Kristin 11 Comments

I am a SCUBA junkie.  I will dive anywhere, any time, with anyone. Want to descend 120 feet (40 meters) to the Great Blue Hole in Belize? I’m your girl.  Want to see what is under the jade-green water in Cambodia? Take me with you. Want to stick me on a boat for 6 nights in Thailand so that I can see manta rays?  Aye aye, captain.

Naturally, in Malaysia, the crippling addiction overcame me again, and I found myself searching out dive sites like the fiend that I am.

Track marks (and by that I mean jellyfish stings. Thank you, Similan Islands!)

That’s where Pulau Perhentian (Malay for “Perhentian Islands) comes in.

Located on Peninsular Malaysia’s northeast coast, this spot had hands down the best beach I have been to in Southeast Asia.

I know, I know, I did say that about Otres Beach in Cambodia, and yes, I did also say that about my beloved Tonsai Beach in Thailand.

This time, I mean it (okay I meant it before too, but, this time for reals).  Would you look at that perfectly clear water?

perhentian island diving
Water this clear, clean, and blue just doesn’t happen everywhere

Then I had a moment.  I’ve been on 35 dives now (to some that will sound like a lot and others will shake their heads and point to their 600-dive log books) and have to say, even in the most beautiful surroundings, I still find it hard to truly be in the moment and not worrying about the past or stressing about the future.

Sail Rock in Perhentian was different.  The schools of fish constantly passing me by and the calm beauty all around me truly made me feel in the moment and like I belonged down there.

Then, the rock head parrotfish seemed to sail by, giant, blue, and majestic.

perhentian island diving
Such an amazing sight

Partially, this was due to Barnaby, the pufferfish (yes, I named him).

I was with other advanced open water divers, so we had a little more leeway than usual. I stayed behind for a few minutes after we came across three rather large (about half the size of my torso) pufferfish that were covered in giraffe-like markings.

perhentian island diving
Barnaby!

Normally, I see them from a distance, but this time, they were right at eye level with me in the ever-so-clear and warm waters.

I stopped and stared at them. They did not swim away.  They did not aggressively get closer, as clownfish do.  Oh but it’s so cute when they do, they’re the size of my thumb or smaller and get all territorial with their anemones. 

They just stopped and observed me, and I them.  The moment seemed frozen in time.  We could have sat there for ages.  I felt like in some strange way, we bonded.  It was like they were telling me, “you’re alright with me,” and I communicated back “you’re alright with me, too.”

Just like that, life, travel, and all of the things that had been weighing on me were lifted. All seemed to make sense again.

Thanks, Barnaby, for bringing me to the present.

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I'm Kristin, and my vision of a better world is one where more women are empowered and living out their dreams. Solo traveling is the best method I've found to become the best, bravest version of me. This site is all about how YOU can have the adventure of a lifetime in an easy, fun, approachable way, so that you can feel empowered, too. Want to learn more about me?

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Comments

  1. Rika | Cubicle Throwdown says

    06/03/2013 at 4:56 pm

    Aw, I love this. Always nice to hear from fellow divers 🙂 The markings on that pufferfish are crazy!! Ours don’t look like that here in the Caribbean. And no judgement on naming Barnaby… we have a dive site with a little Nassau grouper that I’ve christened George, and he follows me around and plays with me on every dive. I absolutely SWEAR that fish and I have a connection!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      06/09/2013 at 8:48 pm

      How is Honduras (that’s where you work, right?) Dying to go back to Central America since Belize was so phenomenal!

      Reply
  2. Arianwen says

    06/04/2013 at 10:46 am

    This sounds like a great experience! I only scuba dived in the Perhentians. I did a dive just off Tioman in Thailand though. The waters around there are so clear and full of interesting fish!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      06/09/2013 at 8:48 pm

      I heard great things about Tioman!

      Reply
  3. Jess says

    06/07/2013 at 5:55 pm

    Barnaby is an excellent pufferfish name. I have one I named Bob. Except Bob is, um, dried, and not exactly alive, so I have to admit Barnaby is much prettier.

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      06/09/2013 at 8:48 pm

      Haha! Oh bob, poor guy.

      Reply
  4. Shari says

    06/08/2013 at 3:50 am

    Where did you stay on the Perhentian islands? We r headed there next!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      06/09/2013 at 8:49 pm

      The smaller island of the two at a place called Tropicana, but I wouldn’t really recommend that one. Shari La is better for dorms and I’m sure they have private rooms, too. They’re on Coral Beach 🙂

      Make sure you book ahead as they get full!

      Reply
  5. Megan says

    06/11/2013 at 2:16 pm

    Egads, get me to that island! I’m not a real beach lover (they’re great, but I like my mountains more) but adore SCUBA. I had a similar moment once with a sea turtle on the Great Barrier Reef. Or at least in my mind we did.

    Reply
  6. Christy says

    01/08/2017 at 11:57 am

    Do you happen to know if inexperienced divers could dive here? I’m planning my first SEA trip, so I am preparing a rough route with things to do along the way.

    Thanks!!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      01/09/2017 at 12:25 pm

      Definitely, you can get certified there. It’s also pretty shallow and very clear visibility wise so it would be a great place to learn.

      Reply

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