The first time I visited Berlin was a bit over a year ago. October isn’t a particularly sunny, pretty, or interesting month to see it for the first time, but something about it felt like home. I couldn’t put my finger on it, though later on, I would understand why.
Most of my travel friends are flakey. We make plans and they fall through, but it’s different with Yvonne. We made a plan to get a tattoo together, and tattoo we did. So when we hatched a plan for me to come back and stay in Berlin over the summer, we both knew it was set in stone.
I took off for another round of adventures in Asia shortly thereafter.
Somewhere along the way, though I was meeting wonderful people and seeing amazing new things, I started to get really tired. Worse than that, my earnings and savings were dwindling. I quietly started telling myself that I had to focus more on work. I had to make more money because I needed to get to the point that I could at least break even again. I even toyed with taking an interview for a marketing position in Brisbane last winter. Surprised? I kept that one under wraps.
“When I get to Berlin,” I told myself, “I can focus more on work. It’s my last chance.”
Then, like magic, the freelance opportunities started adding up, I finally had the time to focus on building business plans, and my writing career turned a corner. Maybe it’s because of Berlin, or maybe it could have happened anywhere, but my love for the city runs deeper than that.
I love the man at the Turkish grocery store (I live in an area of town with a lot of Turkish immigrants) who laughs and smiles through the language barrier every time I buy my weekly vegetables. I love the swans that swim in the spree (river) that runs through my neighborhood. I love the graffiti and street art all over the walls of my building that the city is too broke to clean away. I love my friends. I love seeing live music with them, and knowing that I will absolutely see them again, as opposed to the constant goodbyes I was saying on the road.
When locals ask where I’m from and I respond with, “LA”, they’re like, “Really? Why are you here then?”
As though LA’s the kind of place they can’t imagine wanting to leave.
Then I say, “Dude, have you been here?” to which they say, “True, good point.”
Because Berlin is like Brooklyn meets San Francisco with an LA vibe. The LA vibe in the sense that it’s an insider’s city that takes time to get to know, and I suppose that’s why I haven’t written about it despite spending five months here so far. As Geoff Manaugh so accurately said of LA, “No matter what you do in L.A., your behavior is appropriate for the city. Los Angeles has no assumed correct mode of use,” and, “It says: no one loves you; you’re the least important person in the room; get over it.
What matters is what you do there. ”
That same feeling is present in Berlin, and I guess that’s why I like it so much here. It feels like anything could happen, and it’s full of creative people. Plus, it’s like an onion with many layers that need to be peeled back to reach the real center of it all. That kind of thing takes time and is endlessly fascinating. I love that.
Where it differs from LA is what makes a person interesting in Berlin. It’s rare to see someone running around with bleach blonde hair, big fake boobs, and a Louis Vuitton purse. It’s almost cool not to have any money here, keeping with the broke artist mentality.
Having spent the summer here I’ve seen how it can be when everyone is outside, enjoying, drinking, laughing, creating. The days are incredibly long and it’s really beautiful. Winter is a pretty stark contrast but indoor heating is an awesome invention (honestly, we didn’t use it in Coastal California and we didn’t have it when I was freezing in Nepal or China), that makes it something I can cope with. Kind of.
Though I will be escaping to South Africa for the winter.
Everyone has their own reasons for loving the places they do, and these are mine for loving Berlin. It’s not as cheap as everyone said it once was, as the city is rapidly gentrifying. Apparently it’s not as “cool” anymore, either. They say that about Burning Man, too.
Too all of the naysayers, I say “I don’t care.”
That’s why I moved to Berlin.
READ NEXT: Which Neighborhood in Berlin Suits You Best?
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Chanel | Cultural Xplorer says
Berlin sounds so amazing, and every time that I read about it, I want to travel there. I unknowingly passed up an opportunity to see it this past summer, and I keep regretting it; now I know I MUST go there during my next Euro-trip 😀
Kristin says
Might I suggest waiting until it warms up a bit!
Nikita says
The first day I was in Berlin, I knew that I had to return. No city has ever struck me like that, and I know it will be my home one day, if only temporarily. Looking forward to hearing more about what you discover in that crazy city!
Kristin says
There will be lots to come! My growing love of street art is sure to fill at least a few posts.
Jessica Dawdy says
How have you been working around the 90-day Schengen visa issue? Or did you apply for the freelancer visa? I’ve heard it’s relatively straightforward to get.
Kristin says
Freelancer visa although it’s the waiting period for me right now. I would definitely disagree about it being straightforward. Has been anything but! I’ll blog about it once I’m successful in obtaining one.
Jeremiah says
Looking forward to hearing about the “Self Employment/Freelance” Visa, as I feel it’s my Get Out Of Deportation card for staying in Europe longer than 90 days.
And I agree with what you said about Berlin.
I was only there for a few days but felt that there was something lurking in that city that couple definitely keep me in its clutches for a much longer time.
Kristin says
Haha exactly. It’s my, “Let me stay in the city that I love, please!” card.
Kristin says
Yeah, unfortunately it’s not THAT easy to do. Sorry to hear it didn’t work out for you. Thailand isn’t a bad alternative, though, especially in the winter!
Yvonne says
Honey, Berlin sucks <3 (And I love you too)
Kristin says
Shit, you’re right. Berlin sucks! Don’t come here! 😉 <3 You
Lindsay says
Oh man I LOVE that quote about LA! So true! I’ve lived in LA 10 years and I still feel like I’m peeling back the layers.
And now you’ve sold me on Berlin, especially if it lacks the worst parts of the LA – the fake boobs and the ridiculously large numbers of idiots with too much money.
Kristin says
Although quite unfortunately it lacks a beach and I’m missing the nice weather so hard right now. It gets down to -20 and icy here. Plenty of idiots here too, but they’re broke idiots 😉
Daniel McBane says
I moved to Berlin a little over two years ago for many of the same reasons as you: sick of constantly moving around, wanted a somewhat more permanent base, the city seemed cool. Plus, I have dual citizenship and a German passport and my brother and sister both live there.
I liked Berlin, but just got bored after a year or so. Maybe being able to speak the language made things too easy. Maybe I just can’t stay anywhere for too long. Who knows, but I’m much happier now that I’m somewhere where buying a bottle of water can turn into a huge adventure. It makes for better material for my blog, too.
I hope you’re able to get your visa without too much trouble. German bureaucracy is the stage of hell Dante forgot to mention. Enjoy those Doner. I do miss those. And warm pretzels.
Kristin says
Well geez, if you aren’t making good use of the dual citizenship, can I have it please? I really wish I had a chance at that but my family has been in the US since the 1600s, so, no dice. I agree, it’s another circle of hell but in the end it’ll all be worth it! I can’t imagine getting bored here but then again I’m only 5 months in and I fully comprehend the travel bug. Buying a bottle of water still is an adventure for me since I don’t speak German yet, but, I promised my friend I’d enroll in classes or I have to pay her €500 in order to keep me accountable!
Silvia says
I lived in Berlin for a while and loved it, though I also didn’t feel quite cool enough to be living there, ha. I totally get wanting to settle down for a bit though. I’ll be traveling for the next half year or so, but then I’m seriously considering moving to Norway. Well, if I can find a job there quickly, because Norway is expensive! Still, I would love to be living in Europe again, and should take advantage of my Norwegian citizenship. Speaking of which, good luck with your visa!
Kristin says
Just get more tattoos then you’ll be cool enough 😉
Meggie Kay says
It’s nice to here this perspective of Berlin. I only spent a couple days in Berlin so couldn’t get a really good feel for the city. I lived in a small village in Germany for a year and didn’t like it so I kind of crossed Germany off of places I’d stay in for any good length of time. The way you describe it, Berlin sounds like a place I would like and a lot of similar reasons I’m trying to find a job and stay in Wellington a bit longer.
Kristin says
People always say “Berlin is not Germany,” which I guess I’ll test this week since I’m traveling around the Christmas markets starting today!
Charlie says
I’ve only visited Berlin in winter and would love to see it in summer. I totally get why you love it though, the city has a great creative vibe and the people are friendly. Although it wouldn’t be top of my list of European cities, I could most definitely spend a summer there.
Kristin says
Visit in the summer and then maybe it’ll come to the top. Then again it’s a certain kind of person who likes it here. What tops your list?
Beverley | Pack Your Passport says
I’ve been wanting to come to Berlin in forEVER! 2015 is the year I’m going to make it happen. So glad you’re enjoying living there Kristin 🙂
Kristin says
Let me know when you do!
Jane says
You’ll probably find everything a lot easier if you learn to speak German.
Kristin says
You mean visa-wise? It has nothing to do with that. It’s just a long waiting list. I am in the process of learning but I’m only 5 months in and learning a language, especially as complex as German, takes time.
Jane says
Having gone through the process three times myself, I can assure you that it is 100% easier and more straightforward when you speak German. The people in the Ausländerbehörde appreciate it too.
You can learn a lot of a language in five months if you try.
Kristin says
You got me. I haven’t tried hard enough. I am going to sign up for the language courses when I return. The trouble is working full time and studying a language. The only other time I’ve studied a language intensely was Mandarin but that was my only obligation – no job to work and no bills to pay. It’s a different game when you’re working to feed yourself. I hear you and I agree, though.
Heather says
Congratulations on finding a place to call home! I seriously love being an expat as it gives you the best of both worlds – travel plus a home base. Plenty of people asked me why I wanted to move to Latvia (heck, half the people I told didn’t even know Latvia was a country!), but six months in and I’m head-over-heels in love with the place. Good luck with your visa – and your German lessons!
Kristin says
Life is so much different as an expat than as a traveler and I’m loving the little differences!
Kristin says
I love London! I do love Berlin more, though 🙂 If you’re here too we should grab a coffee and meet IRL!
Justyna says
I came across your website when doing some personal travel research. On a whim, I put my name in the Berlin Marathon lottery and surprisingly I was accepted so I will be traveling to Berlin in September 2015 to race my first marathon!! I’m really excited to explore the city and am considering Kreuzberg as a home base during my stay. Is this a neighbourhood that you would recommend? I love art, independent cafes and restaurants … I’m looking for a neighbourhood that’s a bit removed from the tourist centre. Thanks and I really enjoyed reading your post!
Kristin says
It’s the neighborhood that I live in so definitely! It’s also probably the hardest place to find a place to live, unfortunately. Great alternatives where you’ll have an easier time include Prenzlauer Berg and Neukolln.
Katie @WorldWideVegetarian.com says
I really enjoyed reading this, as Berlin has made a similar, very strong impression on me! Berlin was actually the first real place overseas that I visited, and after visiting for a week I told myself I’d live there. About 2 years later I did live there for about 5 months, and I am still thinking of getting back over there. I love the vibes in Berlin, and all the creativity. It is really a magical city, and I hope it’s not like burning man, or else I need to get on finding the next Berlin!
Katie
Kristin says
The next Berlin is Leipzig 😉
Glamourous Traveller says
Berlin is awesome! It has the gritty creative feeling, and like you said, it makes everything seem possible! I love its numerous art work graffiti and its historical pieces. I love the currywurst and the amazing shopping!
Best of luck! I’m sure it would be great
Kristin says
You have a thing for the currywurst, huh? It hasn’t quite grown on me but I love me some doner kebab. The thrift shopping is pretty good too.
Christina says
Oh man, if the -20 is rough never go to Toronto … or anywhere in non-coastal Canada for that matter!! We only start to complain when it reaches -30 aha!!
No but seriously, I don’t know why I live there – I hate the damn cold! In Cambodia travelling now and I could totally get used to this weather. The Cambodians are all shivering and wearing long sleeve thick sweaters in December and I can’t stay hydrated because I’m sweating so much:)
Kristin says
I never want to know what that feels like. -30? Seriously? I can’t!
Jo (The Blonde) says
It’s great that you are making money with your writing. I am curious how did you manage to do that? I haven’t been on your site for a long time.
Berlin is great. I have been there a long time ago, but still remember the wonderful vibe of the city.
Kristin says
I partner with brands from time to time as you may notice in some posts, which is always noted with a disclaimer. I don’t do it very often, though, as it has to be brands I use and like. I never want this to be a commercial site that I just throw a bunch of ads on because it’s about my story, really. Most of my other income comes from freelancing, both writing and social media.
Jimmy Dau says
I remember staying in Kreuzberg for nearly a week and eating tonnes of kebabs after the odd visit to Tresor. Good times.
It’s good to find a place to call home and to change your focus. It’s why I’m in Saigon and I’m enjoying the change of pace.
Kristin says
It’s a constant battle not to eat kebab daily because I walk by no fewer than FIVE shops on the 5-minute walk to the U-bahn station. It’s not even fair.
Kristin says
Thanks! It is definitely a magical city, even in bad weather.
Diane says
Sounds like a cool city. I’ve never been to Germany (I know, I’m right next door) but Berlin is at the top of my list. All the best to you there!
Kristin says
That’s ok there are so many places near where I’m from that I haven’t visited, including Big Sur, Death Valley, and even the Grand Canyon.
Kat says
Hi Kristin,
I’m from L.A. too and I agree with you about the comparisons. I lived in Germany for 2 years (as well as London and Paris) and am going to return to Germany next year. Berlin is really a special place, isn’t it. LOVE doner kebab! Can’t wait to get my hands on one again.
I also experience the same reactions in Europe when I told people I was from L.A., “Why are you here??” “Why on earth would you want to leave L.A.??” as if L.A. was some magical place. One woman in London called me a liar when I told her I was from L.A. (she asked). She said I couldn’t possibly be from L.A. because I don’t have blond hair!! Crazy!
Keep at it with the language, German is not so difficult when you understand that English is a Germanic language. There are many similarities.
I’m a freelancer too, so I’m looking forward to hearing more about your visa experience.
Viel Glück!
Kristin says
Haha! Because you don’t have blonde hair?! I haven’t had blonde hair since I was 4! It was bleach blonde then but it’s gone milk-chocolate brown since. The struggle is real coming home each day walking by no fewer than 5 doner shops on the way home! Those things are caloric bricks! But delicious 😉
Kristin says
Yes I’ve been dance, dance, dancing my face off!
Franca says
I know exactly what you mean when you say that you kind of felt home when you visited Berlin, I know that feeling very well. After spending 4 months there me and Dale decided to leave for the winter, to spend Christmas with family and friends,something we haven’t done in a years. But I can already tell I’ll miss that awesome city, only until our next visit 😉
Kristin says
I feel it more here than when I return to where I grew up, where I feel quite a big like an outsider now.
Juergen | dare2go says
If there wouldn’t be the long, cold, dark winters in Berlin I’d go back! For me the freezing temperatures are the worse, the short days the second worse. I often feel like a plant, I need sunlight and warmth to prosper. We spent last year just outside Berlin, in Wandlitz, building our travel vehicle, which was my first time back for an extended period in many years. The winter 2013/14 was unusually mild, but still: I became more discontent every week until early March…
Kristin says
That’s why I’m taking off in January and avoiding the worst of the winter. I don’t want to end up hating it. I already find it very difficult to deal with the darkness.
Alex says
Hi there,
just wondering, any resources you could share to help bracket a monthly budget in Berlin ? What’s the reason that would make you leave Berlin ?
thanks !
-A
Kristin says
Hi Alex, I’ll write a post about it. You can do it pretty cheaply for a Western country but then again, by going out and doing the things I want to do, I’d say I spend about €2000 per month, but I don’t limit myself these days. I’m leaving for the winter because it’s too cold for me. Otherwise, I don’t know what the future holds but I like it in Berlin for the time being.
anna says
Berlin is like NYC 15-20yrs ago, bit gritty, accessible, multicultural, etc. Its one of those cities, I can keep going back because there’s always something to see or do. Though you’d never catch a bakery stand in an underground NY subway nor are the trains on time. ha! I love Berlin!! I’d love there if I could. 😛
Kristin says
I love Berlin too for all the reasons you mention: gritty, but easy and full of interesting things.
Aleksandra says
Will be traveling to Berlin in April, and was wondering if you can recommend a good hostel in town? Thanks 🙂
Kristin says
I’ve never stayed at a hostel there because I live there in apartments. I’d check what’s ranked highest on hostelworld
Kristin M says
Hi Kristin! I just want to say I’m a huge fan of your blog and writing. Congrats on your move to Berlin. Im so excited to read all of your posts about Berlin! I actually have an interview for a job in Berlin this week! Eek! I’m from Minnesota (it’s via Skype) and have never been to Germany but of course I really want to. I’m part German so I’m really excited to learn German and about the culture. What is the weather like? I’m used to below zero temps, 40mph winds and loads of snow in the winter so I suspect I would consider German winters warm. What neighborhood do you live in may I ask? My job would be in Friedrichshain so I think I’d try to find a place nearby. Do you know what that area is like? Flat prices there? Do expatriates get German healthcare? Sorry I just have so many questions!
Kristin says
The weather isn’t as bad as where you’re from! The only strange thing for you might be how dark it is in the winter. Sun goes down at around 4pm! I live in Kreuzberg, which is a great place and full of transplants. Friedrichshain is a great neighborhood too.
Kristin M says
Thanks for responding. I just found out this morning I didn’t get the job. I hess we won’t be neighbors after all. But I’m not giving up. 😉
Kristin says
Another door will open. Best of luck, Kristin 🙂
Kristin says
Where will you be moving to? People always say that “Berlin isn’t Germany” and I get it now after traveling through and experiencing so much more of the country over the past few weeks. Regardless I do love living here and it’s absolutely gorgeous. Plus, the hospitality in the small towns is wonderful.
Jasmin says
“Maybe it’s because of Berlin…” – that’s so true – this city has something special and magic… it’s roughness and charm is wonderful. I love living there for nearly 9 years now! You made the right choice 😉
Kristin says
It truly does. It’s always a great place to come back to. You said it – the roughness is charming somehow.
Zed says
Ive been in Berlin for 2 months now. Came from California to play some find other musicians to work with and hopefully prolong my tourist visa. All of these things are really hard to get. First the music scene. Finding musicians here is a challenge in itself. Most will be street musicians that strictly work on their own or already have a made group. Most cafes cater to jazz and folk so anything besides that wont really fly in those areas. If you play hardcore than you will have an easier time, seems like that style is getting more popular here. Of course techno and house will always have a place here. There seems to be less options for those willing to experiment or working with other styles. Doesnt mean you cant make it work. Ive been making my money by playing the streets which would never work out in CA. Depending on the day i can almost make €100 in one day. Next is housing and visa. Unless you have B1 German level you won’t find many job offers and finding flats are more available to students. I recommend going to school and coming here as a student. Might make things a lot easier. In order to get permanent residency you need a job and German bank account. And in order to get a job you need a permanent residence. Catch 22 with everything you try to do. If im not mistaken, in order to apply for freelance visa you will need a min of €8000 in your bank account(not 100% sure on the number). You will also need German insurance if you dont have an insurance that will cover you out of your country. Germans dont do basic coverage, you will need protection for the mostly everything that can happen. Im sure there are ways around this but if you know no one here and dont know the language…good luck. I love Berlin and sure as hell dont want to go back to the Us but after all the running around with appointments and constant flat hunting i am finally tired. Been couchsurfing the whole time amd 2 months feel like 2 years. There’s a lot of competition for flats now and for every flat you see there will at least be 100 maybe more people vying for it. Gentrification is definitely going on here 24/7 and expect rents to go up because of it. There are lots of abandoned buildings and landmarks i expected to see that are no longer here or closed off so that was a little sad.This post is not meant to be negativie but to state the reality of my situation and experience trying to live permanently in Berlin. I wrote this not to dissuade anyone from coming here but to break the beer goggles enough to make a smarter decision. Ive met so many cool people here, had great tasting beer and not looking forward to leaving especially now that I got used to the awesome transportation system. Good times, bad times. Love you Berlin! I will be back. Good luck to all of you in similar situations.
Kristin says
You bring up a good point. You need evidence of a solid living and money in your bank account, plus insurance, plus proof of a lease to get the residency permit here. I already had all of those things as a freelancer. They want people to move to Germany who will bring in tax revenue. That’s why the visa exists. I hate to say it but they don’t want broke artists who will take a local’s job or cost the system money. This makes perfect sense to me.
As for finding a flat, I’ve honestly not really had that much trouble. I always find something through word of mouth and have found options online too. It’s hard to get your own flat as a freelancer but to combat that offer to pay the year or 6 months of rent upfront. If you can’t do that then, no, this won’t be an easy place to live. But honestly, it’s not that shocking to me. You have to have a solid income and a plan to move here. They don’t just want to hand out visas like candy. The US sure doesn’t either! I think it’s just a reality check. Sorry it didn’t work out for you dude and best of luck.
Angel James says
Berlin is really cool, indeed! I used to live there for a little while and it was very nice. I am planning to return someday. I feel that there is more to discover. 🙂 Moving around the world must be fun! Thank you for sharing!
Kristin says
There’s always more to discover in Berlin! That’s why I like it so much.
vira says
Oh man, you are torturing me with this post! haha.. j/k. Actually, I’m serious.
I’ve been wanting to go to Berlin, but I still have to save up a lot.
Your story is really intriguing me to go very soon.. Though someone said it’s too gentrified, I still wanna feel the energy and artsy environment. The artist in me is yearning!
I hope I’m not being dramatic.. Lol.
Kristin says
Eh, a lot of people say it’s gentrified but that happens everywhere that is considered ‘cool’ and it doesn’t ruin the city for me.
Jess says
Hello Kristin,
Thanks for the info! Love to hear more about your moving experience. I recently traveled to Berlin twice in the last three months. I want to move there as soon it’s financially possible. I have a bit more research to do for the freelance visa and of course I must hunt down a good apartment. Currently I live in LA, it’s been home since birth, I moved to the east coast and stayed for nearly four years but LA pulled me back in. I’m sick of it at this point, and as much as I love the mountains, the beautiful swells and driving up to big sur and SF I am pretty much ready to settle abroad. Berlin feels like home, the first morning I woke up clouded by the cold and happily overwhelmed by the easily accessible vegan lifestyle I knew. And though Berlin is grand in many ways I’ve been debating Portland, OR and Berlin for some time now. Before I left to Berlin the first time my plans were set on Portland but now, I am not so sure. Any suggestions that might help my easily swooned mind?
Best,
JR
Kristin says
I guess the hardest thing is living in a country where signing a lease, getting the visa, and everything you do will require someone local who can help you and translate for you. Sometimes you’ll be totally out of the loop at a party because everyone will be speaking German and you’ll have no idea what they’re saying. You’ll probably be required to pay monthly taxes as a freelancer, it’ll be hard to get a place without a rental history. The US is simply easier but you can immerse yourself if you put in the effort in Berlin.
Roberta Westwood says
Hey Kristin,
Hi from Canada. Congrats on your blog, excellent writing, lots of it, and consistent. I read a lot of travel blogs, and it takes a lot for one to stand out. Yours did!
I spent a month in Berlin in October 2009, and loved it. I rented a flat for a month in Kreuzberg, loved being on the top floor, and felt like a local climbing all those stairs!
I would like to return to Berlin at a warmer time of year, but fall was nice, and when it got cool/cold, I really appreciated how many cafes had heaps of blankets on hand, so I could wrap up and still sit outside.
You are inspiring me to return or a month or two again one day.
Cheers,
Roberta
Kristin says
I have a hard time there when it gets really cold too and there’s no snow. When it’s snowy I looooove it and the Fall is my favorite time but when it’s -11 and with that humidity it’s killer! Totally get where you are coming from.
Thanks for the compliment by the way I’m so glad you enjoy the site!
Andrew Cariboni says
I love Berlin. Definitely my favourite city. I’m going back in Spring, any other German cities you suggest? I just saw the Bourdain in Cologne episode and Cologne looks awesome too for it’s own reasons.
Kristin says
I really like the south as well: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/day-trips-from-stuttgart-germany/