Somewhere between the baby goats who gingerly sniffed my hand before allowing me to pet them (like puppies do!), the baby cow which did the same, the little snorting yaks, village kids who put their hands together to say “namaste” (hello), the amazingly beautiful mountains that framed every moment, and the daily chai masala teas, it hit me: this is bliss.
Ned told me a bit about trekking in Nepal when we climbed Mt. Kinabalu together in Borneo and Laura told me a bit about the Annapurna sanctuary when we trekked Mt. Rinjani together in Indonesia, so it got tacked onto month 20 of my ongoing travels in Asia without much more than a second thought.
What I ended up experiencing was some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen on the longest trek I’ve ever attempted. Not only that, I did it without a guide or porter.
I carried all of my own gear (you can find out more about what to bring here), and got my permits on my own by bringing passport-sized photos, travel insurance (required!), and filling out the necessary paperwork. The rest was a slice of heaven.
Here’s how you can do it, too:
Day one: Everyone starting from Pokhara heads to the tourist bus station to catch the 7am bus to Besisahar, where the trek officially begins (you can also go directly here from Kathmandu on a public bus). Most people take an additional bus or even a Jeep to at least Bhubule or even Ngadi, where the last bus stops (which is what I did).
I met Ellen, who would become my trekking buddy for the rest of the trip, on the bus and we made fast friends.
Traveling took most of the day and allowed us to fit in about 8km to Ghermu as the sun was setting, where a young girl handed us seabuckhorn berries when we walked into the town. Everyone there was so friendly, saying “namaste” to us as we passed by. The guesthouse we chose also happened to brew roxi, a local spirit. This resulted in a few colorful characters stopping by, giving us a laugh and making dinner all that much more interesting. It was a great way to start what would become a wonderful two weeks. Ghermu, I love you.
Day two: We learned to ask for breakfast a half hour before we actually wanted to eat it when it arrived a half hour late the next morning. The earlier one starts trekking in the morning, the better, as at the lower altitudes it can still be boiling hot outside.
We walked the 16km to Karte, which is one town just beyond where most people stop in Tal. Unfortunately much of this trail is along a road that is shared with Jeeps, which churn up a lot of dust.
Day three: This was a long one! We walked 30 km to Dhukur Pokhani after arriving at Bhratrang at 6pm and finding only two more beds (there were three in our group) at the only tea house in town. Ellen and I walked an additional hour to the next town just as the sun was setting, which had a good six tea houses to choose from, and plenty of beds!
Most people on this day would have stopped in Chame, but it was only 3pm when we arrived there, so we kept going.
I’ll always remember this as the first day I ever pet a cow. I recall how a friend of mine wanted so badly to pet one in the rural area of Phang Nga in Vietnam a few months before and how I’d laughed at him, sure he would get kicked or bitten. When the calf sniffed his hand and then dipped his head as if to say, “go ahead,” I was shocked.
This time it was Ellen who worked up the bravery to pet the baby calf first, who reacted the same way. I followed suit this time, surprised by how soft and sweet it was.
Day four: There’s a choice of taking the upper or lower Pisang trail on this day.
Lower runs along the road and is much easier, while upper involves a steep 600 meter gain but is good for acclimating and is the more beautiful trek by far, offering magnificent views of the Annapurna peaks. Naturally we took the Upper Pisang trail ending in Manang, in the middle of a snowstorm no less, for a total of 20km walking that day.
Day five: This was a rest day in Manang to acclimate to the altitude. This is highly recommended as many people really start to feel the altitude by this point. Most people take a side trek but I had walked so much the previous days, I didn’t see the need.
Day six: We walked the 10km to Letdar, taking a leisure day and waking up at the ripe hour of 7:30am. At this point in the trek, even if one can physically keep walking, ascending more than 500 meters/day can result in altitude sickness.
Even this gain of 660 meters was somewhat ill advised, but we felt alright with it. The night was spent at over 4000 meters.
Day seven: We walked the 11 km to High Camp, taking another leisure day and leaving around 8am from Ledtar. The walk to high camp is a steep one, and something I preferred doing in the daylight hours, as many people wake up at 3am to make the trek up from high camp all the way through the pass.
Spending the night at high camp was interesting. We luckily arrived early enough (around 12 noon) to get a space in a shared 3-bed room with ice on the walls from the cold. Ellen and I shared a bed while everyone who arrived after us had to sleep in the common room and those who arrived after 3pm were turned away.
Day eight: We walked 14km over Thorung Pass to Mukinath. No lies; today was difficult. For me, it wasn’t the incline — I’d had plenty of that — it was the altitude. Thorung La Pass sits at 5416 meters (over 17,700 feet!), and it didn’t matter how much acclimatization I had done, I was feeling it.
I felt like my head might explode and each step I took felt as though I was walking on air. When Ellen came down with similar symptoms after we had already descended quite a bit in the following days, I realized I had been ill that day as well. That’s a lot to add on top of the difficulty of ascending that much.
But when I finally reached the pass, adrenaline took over and I was on cloud nine.
Next came a very steep descent. I’ve always been better with uphills than downhills. My joints are too flexible, as evidenced by a shoulder surgery I had a few years ago. Downhills are a doozy for my knees.
Day nine: Today was a semi-but-not-really-rest-day on the incredibly bumpy and dusty bus from Mukinath to Tatopani (no walking). It is actually possible to get a bus or Jeep from this part of the trek all the way back to Pokhara, but I didn’t go quite that far.
I cut out this part of the trek because I did not want to walk along the road, inhaling dust from busses and jeeps. I had found it unpleasant during the first days of the trek and didn’t want to experience it anymore.
Instead, the plan was to tack on the Annapurna Base Camp/Sanctuary trek since it had taken a much shorter time than anticipated to knock out the circuit. I had read it takes anywhere from 16-21 days, but, at our pace and by eliminating 2-3 by bus at the end, we only took nine! We also added three awesome guys to our group whom we had run into a few times over the course of the circuit trek.
Day ten: In order to see Poon Hill, we did the trek from Tatopani to Ghorepani, a steep gain of 1600 meters over 18km. There were very few flats, downhills (thankfully for my knees), and anything other than steep inclining stone steps. The occasional friendly goat got me through the sweaty, hot day. It was so endearing to hold my hand under their noses, feel them sniff, then dip their head to let me stroke them. I vowed to one day have a pet goat.
I’ll also remember this day as the time when I walked up to find Ellen comforting a little boy who had been chased by a rabid cow. I had heard the screaming as I rounded the corner but had no idea it was due to a 6-year-old running for his life from a cow! Afterwards I said to Ellen, “can you imagine growing up in a place where you have to fear being chased by cows?” It’s not commonplace in greater Los Angeles, that’s for sure.
Day eleven: The Poon Hill trek is done in the early morning in order to catch the sunrise, with most people leaving around 4am. The trek takes 40 minutes to an hour up even more stone steps. Usually the vista is quite impressive, but we had a hazy day so not much was visible.
I would complain, but I’ve had unbelievably amazing weather during my travels and still got to see the same mountains from different views, so I sucked it up and kept going.
We then made our way to Bamboo via Tadopani to begin the ABC trek.
The other side of the mountain brought much greener, wetter, and quite different trekking than the circuit had. I kept cursing the steep downhill steps followed by equally steep steps up. The final climb down to Bamboo revealed a set my knees just didn’t want to handle anymore. The colorful string of expletives I let off when I encountered them was some of my best work. It’s a pity nobody was around to hear it, as my friends had already made it to the tea house 10 or so minutes earlier.
Day twelve: We walked 12 km with a nearly 2000-meter gain to Annapurna Base Camp. Normally this would be completely ill advised due to the altitude gain, but we were already acclimated from Thorung La pass, a good 1200 meters higher, and therefore had no issues.
The biggest difference with this trek was the amount of rain encountered. On the circuit we didn’t get any, but come 11am or so on the base camp trail, rains pelted us on the trail and mists rolled in.
Day thirteen: Unlike the circuit, the base camp trek goes up and then back down the same path. We awoke in time for the sunrise, which cleared up and provided some truly beautiful views of the mountains.
We then walked 17 km to back to Chomrong, descending over 2100 meters through rain, mud, and another steep set of downward stone steps.
Day fourteen: This was the final day. We walked 12 km to just beyond Kimche where we caught a bus back to Pokhara. One can continue onwards another few hours or so to finish the trek, but we’d had about enough after 14 days!
As for costs, without a guide things become much cheaper and you’re much freer to set your own schedule. I averaged $21/day, though it’s possible to spend less if you don’t have a crippling chai masala tea addiction, which probably added $3-$4 per day to my overall bill. The busses are also pretty expensive, so if it is all done on foot, you can avoid those costs as well.
Both the Annapurna circuit and base camp/sanctuary treks were amazing, and different enough from each other to make it very much worth tacking on base camp at the end of the circuit. If you have the time, I highly recommend doing both. If I had to choose one over the other, however, I’d go with the circuit. The people, views, and experience were just magical.
Do you love trekking too? What are some of your favorite treks you’ve done around the world?
Rika | Cubicle Throwdown says
This is INCREDIBLE!! All your photos…wow… what a beautiful trek. Not sure I could handle 30km in one day though, holy cow.
Kristin says
Thanks dear! Yeah, I was lucky that I had a trekking buddy who was very motivating and that we were on the same page, but 30km in one day was certainly a lot and I was walking down the stairs at the tea house that night like an 80-year-old woman!
Nikita says
This post made my heart hurt, I want to do this trek so badly. Such a variety of gorgeous sights!
Kristin says
Aw thank you, Nikita!
Stephen Jones says
What a wonderfully informative post, and breathtaking photos, Kristin! Now I’m determined to do the Annapurna circuit as well as the EBC trek! Which time of year did you do this?
Kristin says
Thank you Stephen! Now that I’ve done the Annapurna I definitely want to check out more treks in Nepal. There seem to be endless options! I just did this at the end of April which is the second high season after October. The circuit was fine and we didn’t encounter much rain, but Annapurna base camp was a rainy trek for sure.
Josh Baker says
Hey Kristen,
My wife and I are looking at making this trip. It sounds like there were some rainy hiking days. Aside from that was there a lot of traffic on the trail in April. From everything I’ve read it sounds like Oct.-Nov. are the best months, but a billion people are on the trail then as well.
What are your thoughts?
Kristin says
There wasn’t a ton of traffic on the trail in April. It was pleasant to hike for me – no lines or anything. However I’ve heard in the fall sometimes people sleep on the floor in the tea houses because the rooms fill up. It’s the most popular time. Can you go on a shoulder month?
Paul says
The mountains aren’t snowcapped Goliaths like the ones in Asia, but backpacking in the Sierra Nevadas back in Cali is amazing. Going up above tree-line and reaching golden alpine lake basins, such as Bear-Lake Basin in the Ansel Adams wilderness is breathtaking. A far more desolate rocky beauty. No guesthouses, so you have to bring your own tent, sleeping bag, and all other supplies.
But since I’m in China, I have summer plans to trek out here. Five weeks going out to remote monasteries in Western Sichuan and southern Qinghai (Yarchen Gar in Baiyu and Ganden & Dana monasteries, both in Nangchen). Finally top the trip off with going circumambulating around Amnye Machen, the second holiest mountain in Tibet (Mt. Kaliash is too deep in the TAR). I’ll be hanging out with monks, nuns, and nomads that most likely can’t speak Chinese, so hopefully I don’t go insane not being able to talk to anyone. These places are way way way off the backpackers, and Chinese tourist’s, too, usual route.
By the way, how do you manage with cold weather gear and warm weather gear too? You couldn’t have been lugging all of that stuff the whole time. And after you left the mountains, what did you do with them?
Kristin says
That sounds like an amazing trip you have planned! Please do tell me how it goes. I might want to do something similar eventually. Agreed about the Sierra Nevadas – I grew up in California and my love of hiking started there from a young age.
I buy really cheap cold-weather gear. My fake North Face was from Vietnam so I didn’t mind ditching it when I was done. I also am lucky enough to have some friends in London who let me leave my nicer clothing with them for when I return to Europe periodically.
Rashaad says
I don’t know if I’d consider it an epic trek – but roughly five years ago, two friends and I climbed Mount Fuji. Although it was the middle of July, it was cold. Unfortunately, I was unprepared for the cold so that made the experience not fun. It was not a pleasant experience because it might have been raining also (I don’t remember for sure). However, I am so proud of having climbed Mount Fuji because it was a goal of mine.
Kristin says
That is an epic trek! I’d love to climb Mt. Fuji.
Jen Seligmann says
Absolutely incredible! I have never been much of treker. but one day hopefully I’d like to accomplish something like this.
Kristin says
Do it girl!
Pratibha says
Wow, just wow! Some truly jaw-dropping pictures here. Am not much of a hiker myself but it’s the promise of scenes like these that take me back to the mountains every time. Thanks for this.
Kristin says
Thanks for your kind comment! Glad you like the photos 🙂
Surya Bhattacharya says
This sounds so very do-able!! I’ve never trekked much, but I’ve easily walked upwards of 30kms everyday on all my tips. Your photos are stunning, and Nepal is so easy to get to (I live in Delhi), I think I need to get ready for this one soon!!
Kristin says
You should definitely give it a go, then!
Khum says
Thanks for sharing such a wonderful post. Pictures are just awesome. Cheers !
Kristin says
Thank you!
Jimtaos says
Kristin,
I’ve done the Annapurna Circuit twice, ABC, Tilicho Lake, Everest Three Passes, EBC, Langtang and Helembru treks. Before they put the road in on the first part of the Annapurna it was truly magical. The road made the villages seem more squalid somehow. If you ever do it again I have to say that trekking from Muktinath to Tatopani is my favorite part. Hardly any traffic, a nice grade, beautiful scenery, and very awesome culturally important villages. Kagbeni is not to be missed! So much to experience on the Kali Gandhaki side. Highly recommended.
Love your blog and it always inspires me to travel
Thanks,
Jim
Kristin says
I felt like the road leaving Mukinath is getting bad too. It’s a pity how much the road is completely ruining that trek and the little towns along it. Thanks for the kind words!
Suzanne Fluhr says
Kristin, I was engrossed by your photos, especially since it is unlikely (nah,totally not happening) that I will ever see these places for myself. The only more than one day hiking I’ve done was the Milford Track in New Zealand. Beautiful scenery, but no goats to pet, rabid cows nor chai.
Kristin says
Thanks so much for the kind words. I definitely want to do some trekking in New Zealand. Such a beautiful place.
YUNG says
hi,
just wanted to take permission to post your write up on notice board of ACA check post Jomsom.URS is inspirational, and i m local from jomsom
Kristin says
Sure! I’ve definitely been in that office! 🙂
mithun says
such a wonderful post. nice photos too. will be going for ABC at the end of October this year.
Kristin says
Thank you! October is meant to be the best time to trek the circuit. April wasn’t bad but we did get pelted with rain and it was MUDDY!
Yana says
Love your post. I’m planning on doing this trek next month. Did you find it hard doing it alone? I’m debating on whether to hire a guide or not. Any advice would be much appreciated!
Kristin says
I met a girl on the bus ride over who I ended up doing the whole thing with. You will meet people along the way at the tea houses. I think it would be fine to go alone.
Ryan Tan says
Hi Kristin
Nice post as usual, do you find the trek for Annarpurna trek easier to compare to Mount Rinjani? Need some advice on that since you did rinjani before and I’m considering to take on Annarpurna next year 🙂
HENNI says
This was absolutely BEAUTIFUL! studying civil engineering at an intens level now to prepar for my exmas – but leaving to Annapurna and Nepal in less than a month!!!! cant wait =))))) Any great tips?
Kristin says
Definitely! I have all my prep tips here: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/how-to-prepare-for-annapurna-circuit/
Katya says
Been there this october, magical, beautiful place! Can’t forget the sunrises over mountains!
tsering angya gurung says
Hi Kristin ,your post is so wonderful i loved it, thanks to visit my beautiful country. I am from kagbeni, mustang nepal (now in new york city).
Kristin says
Wow you’re from Mustang and now you live in NYC? What a big contrast! Dhanybhad for your comment. I love it when a local reads and appreciates something I’ve written 🙂
Austin says
First and foremost i just wanted to say i love your articles! But i was just wandering how much do you think it would be to trek Nepal for a month? Ive been trying to plan a trip for the summer of 2016.
Kristin says
Do you mean budget-wise? I spent around $15 per day at the lower elevations and a bit more at the higher ones because food becomes more expensive. It’s got to be the cheapest or at least one of the cheapest countries in the world.
Terry says
Hey. Just wanted to let you know your article inspired me to hit up the Annarpurna Circuit without a guide as well. I’m gonna be traveling with a buddy and we’re also planning on hiking to Everest base-camp. I’d hike up Mt. Everest if I didn’t think I’d get lost and die, haha. Just wanted to say thanks. Looking forward to reading about your adventures. Cheers!
Kristin says
Thanks Terry you’re going to love it!
Albert says
Hi Kristin greetings from Madrid,
your post has been much more than useful as we are planning a trip to Annapurna but still not quite sure which one to choose.
It´s the first comment where someone is doing the Annapurna Circuit combined with the Base Camp and still with some time to reach Poon Hill.
Me and my partner only have 10 full days for trekking, (I dont count the day we arrive early in the morning 8:30AM to Kathmandu from our international flight as not sure if that same day we can reach Pokhara or somewhere further on the trek).
Considering your diary and the 14 days, do you see any chance to do the same “circuit” skipping or doing by bus/jeep any of the sections and save a couple of days?
I know it seems quite challenging, the alternative might be to take out the Poon Hill trek or the ABC portion…
Thanks anyway for all the information and keep on!
Regards
Albert
Kristin says
You can take a 4×4 in much farther than we did, thereby cutting out a lot, so yes, if you walk as much as we did per day then you can do it.
Julie @ Our Global Trek says
Hi Kristin,
Your photos from the Annapurna Circuit are lovely! We are starting that trek in a few days and your post has made me even more excited. (I will be attempting to make poses at Thorong La as epic as yours.) We had originally thought we would get a guide, but after getting a few quotes in Kathmandu, realized that they didn’t add as much value as we had expected, and that maybe we could manage it ourselves. So it’s always encouraging to read about fellow travelers who have successfully trekked the circuit without a guide. We’ve found planning for this trek to be a bit harder than our usual travel planning, just because most people get a guide so there’s not too much information out there, and we have to cover the itinerary/gear/passes/emergencies/everything ourselves. It was really helpful to read your daily notes to get a sense of what I can expect when we’re up there, which makes me feel better about the whole thing. Just like you, the downhill parts get me the most, so hopefully my trekking poles will help, I will take it slow, and my knees will recover.
Thanks for all the helpful info!
Julie
Kristin says
So glad that you found this post helpful and have a wonderful time! I suppose having a guide helps with sorting out the passes but it’s not too difficult and no, I don’t feel the value-add of a guide is super high on the Annapurna circuit.
riny says
Hi lovely,
May i know which month you went? I planned to go late march to mid april.. but i read that it may be hazy.. Any suggestion?
Kristin says
I started in mid-April. The beginning was slightly hazy but once there were no more roads that could accommodate cars or motor bikes it was completely clear and beautiful.
Ankur says
Kristin, What is tougher. Rinjani Or Annapurna Circuit?
I have done Rinjani, making up my mind for Annapurna circuit.
Kristin says
Rinjani is three days and the Annapurna circuit can take up to two weeks so in my mind they’re not even comparable! Thorung La pass is also at over 4k meters so the altitude is a huge battle. It’s tougher for sure, but again I don’t even think they’re in the same ball game.
Ramakrishna says
Thanks for sharing your trip, would love to do this before the road construction completely ruins it. What gear (clothing for warm/cold temps) and other did you have to carry?
Kristin says
Yeah it’s definitely slowly but surely ruining the beauty. I know it makes life easier on the people who live there but I wonder if they feel good about it, too.
Here’s the info on what to pack: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/how-to-prepare-for-annapurna-circuit/
Anonymous says
hi! im coming to nepal on july and its possible to hike solo? i only got 10 days there, so any short cut to hike to annapurna? thanks in advance
Kristin says
I started it solo but met someone on the bus on my way in. You will meet plenty of people along the way. You can take a Jeep pretty far into the trek and back out so 10 is probably possible if you are willing to hike from sun-up til sun-down, which I did and it was fine.
Kelvin says
Hi, thanks for sharing your trip. Is it possible to hire porter when one is already in the circuit? My gf and I will like to challenge the trip without a porter but just in case if we don’t have the fitness.
Shaily says
Hi, thanks for sharing your experience about ACT.. we are group of friends going to ACT trek in April. we were informed that the quota for ACAP and TIMS permits are over. Do they maintain quotas ? Your inputs will be really helpful. Thanks in advance
Kristin says
I’m not sure why they’d stop – maybe tourism overall declined to Nepal? You probably have to find that out on the ground but it’s not a big deal – you just register the day before if you do want to do it.
Anne says
Thanks so much for this post, Kristin! Wanted to do a Bhutan trek in next month but it is super hard to get to and everything sold out. Anna Purna sounds like an awesome alternative in Nepal! Me and a girlfriend I think are going to try and book! If you ever get down to Cape Town, let me know. Some epic trails here for hiking and adventuring that can point you to!
Kristin says
Thanks I will take you up on that! The trek is awesome, and apart from flights you don’t need to book anything before you get there. have fun!
Alicia Park says
thanks for the info.
how much trekking experience /training would you recommend before attempting this trail?
what was it like traveling solo from kathmandu? i heard it can be pretty crazy getting out of the city
Kristin says
I would definitely train beforehand. You have to take into account that not only is this a 2-week trek, on average, but you will be at altitude. The altitude is what makes it the hardest. I did several day-long treks in the Chinese Himalayas before I went and it helped for sure.
I didn’t have issues getting out of the city. Just get on a bus to Pokhara.
jordy says
Hi Kristin:
Great stuff. A couple of questions if you don’t mind.
We are planning on going in October and I’m wondering if it is possible and/or worthwhile to book tea houses in advance or can you comfortably wing it?
Also, were there any sections of the trail with significant exposure. I trekked in the vicinity of Annapurna 4 many years ago (a bit off the beaten track) and it was a bit dicey in spots. Just wondering how this stacks up.
Best,
jordy
Kristin says
I don’t know if it’s possible to book them in advance. When I was there it wasn’t possible. They don’t really have internet to receive bookings. I’m afraid I’m not sure what you mean by exposure. Do you mean sun exposure? That’ll be the whole trail.
John Hogan says
Hi,
Thanks for this article. I’m in the learning phase before heading over there next year and your descriptions and the attitude that comes through with your words are great. I’ve found myself clicking through to your main site and I can tell you’re having an awesome time travelling around – nice one 🙂
Sandia says
We are going to do the same thing this upcoming October. Your post is super helpful. One question: did you get your permit at Pokara or Besisahar? Do you know if it’s difficult to get the permit at Besisahar?
Kristin says
I got it in Pokhara. You’re doing it in the reverse? Just an FYI the Manang pass is significantly harder to go up on the other side. It also really sucked going down because it was so steep. I’m not sure about the permitting situation there but there are probably agencies that can help you out, also in Kathmandu.
Blaine says
Hi Kristin,
Really enjoyed reading about your travels on the Annapurna Circuit. Not that I’m a complete “chicken baby”, I’ve dangled from the wing of a small plane when parachuting, but I’m not crazy a out heights. In spite of this, I’m very intrigued by this trek and wondered how precarious, one false step and your dead, sections this involves. I’m 60 years old and not as sure-footed as in my youth…and I wouldn’t plan on wearing a parachute during the trek?.
Thanks,
Blaine
Kristin says
I didn’t encounter all that many super steep trails. They were pretty wide and picturesque.
Alex says
Hi Kristin
I’m really looking forward to going to Nepal and trekking, but I can only make it in the peak of the monsoon season (June/July). Do you know/ have you spoken to anyone about how it could be different or more difficult with the conditions in the summer?
Thank you!
Kristin says
That’s actually a popular time but you will be wet, just plan on that. I encountered a lot of rain on the sanctuary part of the trek especially, and that was late April. It’s still going to be awesome as long as you prep properly for it.
sergio roman says
Hi Kristin, where and how you got the permits paper?
Thanks
Kristin says
There’s an office in Kathmandu and Pokhara. I took a taxi to get there from where I was staying but you could walk
Xing says
Thank you Kristin for such an inspiring blog! I’m planning to trek the Annapurna Circuit and your entry has been extremely informative and helpful. I was wondering if I can hike the trail the way I have it planned. Here is my tentative itinerary: Day 1. Bus from Kathmandu to Ngadi, walk to Ghermu. D2. Karte. D3. Chukar Pokhani and Chame. D4. Upper Pisang Trail to Manang. D5. Side trip to Tilicho Lake. Day 6. Letdar D7. High Camp. D8. Thorung Pass to Mukinath. D9. Bus to Tatopani. D10. Tatopani to Ghorepani. Day 11. Poon Hill sunrise back to Ghorepani. D12. Birethani D13. Pokhara. If you get a change, I’d love to get your opinion on it. Whether that’s doable. I am pretty fit and had hiked Kilimanjaro in 6 days. Thank you!!!!
Kristin says
All the way from Kathmandu on day one? Start in Pokhara. If you’re really that limited on time consider taking a Jeep farther in than Ghermu. Remember that you have to take altitude acclimatization into consideration and that’s not something you can or should rush.
Xing says
Thank you Kristen for your prompt response! I decided to take your feedback into consideration and adding a couple more days to my trek. Maybe 17 days for the trek will work out better. On another note, how’s trash disposal on the trek. Did you feel the need to carry your trash for the trek or was there a way of disposing things like toilet paper and wet wipes in a somewhat Eco-friendly way?
Juliette Behringer says
Hi Kristin – love your blog. Very simple question but possibly silly that I keep meaning to ask. When you go on all of these long treks – where do you leave the rest of your things in your backpack not meant for trekking? Do you bring a separate backpack just for trekking and leave your regular backpack at some sort of secure location? HELP! Using your guide to plan my trip starting in Borneo and ending in Nepal.
Kristin says
The guesthouses in Pokhara allow you to store your stuff in their storage rooms. That’s been the case in every trekking town I’ve been to. If I’m not using a different backpack for the trek, and need the one that normally has all my stuff in it, I put it in a trash bag, wrap my pacsafe around it, and lock it.
Brenna E. says
Hi Kristin!
This is amazing! I’m going to be doing this at the end of March in 2017! I am excited to see that you have done this without a guide! I’m doing this with my boyfriend and we are considering going without a guide/porter. Did you have a guidebook or just a map?
Your pictures are amazing!
Kristin says
The trail was super obvious so none of that was necessary 🙂
Tracy says
Brenna, how was the trip in March? My husband and I are going mid/end of March of 2018. Thank you!
Maria says
Hey Kristin,
How gorgeous! Those pictures are to die for. Thank you for this piece.
A friend and I are planning the trek for April 2017, but we don’t have 20 days to spare. Do you think it makes sense to do a part of the circuit, say, for about 7 days? We’re not experienced trekkers either, but the beauty of that landscape is irresistible.
Kristin says
in 7, no, but you could do the sanctuary trek
Lisa says
Hi Kristin,
Thanks a lot for all the details you provided in your articles. Great and helpful information.
We are going to do the Annapurna circuit in March and I would like to ask a couple of questions.
Did you buy a map in advance or in Pokhara?
Could you please tell me which map did you use?
Thanks a lot in advance.
I wish you all the best in your trips.
Lisa
Kristin says
I got a crappy little map that helped show distances but didn’t provide anything else helpful when I got the ticket, but you don’t really need a map. The trail is well-marked and plenty of other people are hiking it too.
Ujjwal says
This is a very nice and informative post. Even though I am from Nepal, I haven’t done this beautiful trek. Your post has really inspired me to do this trek. As soon as I can get away from Boston, I will do this trek. You have really captured gorgeous photos of the Annapurna. Great post 🙂
Kristin says
Thank you for the kind words! It’s amazing and I hope you enjoy it!
Kayleigh says
Hi Kristin
Planning to go to Nepal in March and just had some questions:
1. Did you just trek with the stuff you needed, or all of your belongings? I’m traveling through Asia at the moment. Is it easy enough to store belongings with a hotel? I travel with a 40l bag and day pack, is it worth to rent/buy another back pack and store my 40l and day pack?
2. I’m travelling with a laptop and don’t want to trek with it. Were you travelling with your laptop at the time and did your store it?
3. Is it better to buy all clothes in Nepal or before arriving. I only travel with summer clothes. I will be in KL before flying out, maybe I can pick up cheap clothes before flying.
4. Once at the top is the only option to hike back down, are there any jeeps that can take you back down at some point?
Sorry for all questions, this is my first time trekking 🙂
Kayleigh
Kristin says
Hey Kayleigh!
1. I left most of my things in the guesthouse I stayed at in Pokhara. They don’t mind and they’re used to it. I had a computer in there and told the owner it was really important, so he kept it in his room for me, for almost 2 weeks!
2. See above
3. I bought all of the stuff I needed in Kathmandu except for my fake North Face which I bought in Vietnam for $25 the month before (I was in the Chinese Himalayas before I went to Nepal and it snowed there). It was all complete crap but it lasted me for those two weeks. I think I spent $55 total on everything!
4. You’ll need to hike down the steepest part from the top, but Jeeps can take you a long way in and a long way out too. I’ve heard that the roads go farther and farther in each year (which is honestly pretty sad to hear).
Enjoy it! That was my first long-term trek too and it was awesome training because I didn’t have to carry all of the weight with me that I would backpacking and it helped me to build up some serious endurance at that altitude!
Kayleigh says
Thank you Kristin for all the advice. I’m looking forward to it even more!
I’m assuming for accommodation it’s a case of turning up early where possible to get somewhere?
Kristin says
Exactly, though I usually just walked until dusk because I wanted to get as far as I could each day.
Kayleigh says
Thank you Kristin I really appreciate your advice. Can’t believe I’ll be there in just over 2 weeks ?
George says
Hey Kristin,
This is one incredible post, coupled with the questions and answers throughout which has cleared a lot up for me. I’ve got 3 months in Nepal from mid March to early June. Based on those kinda dates, when would you say would be best to do both the Annapurna Circuit and ABC Trek? I’m going to be doing it solo, hoping to meet a few people on the way to tag onto.
Lastly – should I end up doing it alone, are the trails/directions etc. well trodden and so fairly easy to get from place to place?
Thanks!
George
Kristin says
You’ll meet people easily, and I personally went in April and thought it was great. You’ll probably still have snow but a bit less than in March, and it’s not quite as rainy yet as it will be in June.
Alannah says
Hi there,
Just wondering how difficult it was getting the bus from Muktinath to Tatopani? Are there multiple per day or is it a first in first served kind of deal?
Thank you for all the helpful information!
Luis Castro says
Hello! I just wanted to say that your Annapurna guide is awesome. I’m heading up next month and your blog is the most helpful I’ve found. Cheers! Journey well…
Kristin says
Wonderful! Thanks!
Raymond Carroll says
Great post and brought back lots of memories. I trekked the Annapurna Circuit in 2012 and loved every minute of it. A real escape from the rat race for seventeen days – shangri La! Hope you’re well, and safe travels!
Mr X says
Thank you for the information. I liked your info about not having a guide, the cost, and the fact you stayed in tea houses. Much appreciated.
Emily says
Hi Kristin, awesome blog, thank you so much. The comments have been so helpful too. I am going the circuit in 2 weeks. I said I would meet a friend to start it in pokhara, I fly into kathmandu. Is it best to start the trek in Besisahar/bhulbhule or pokhara? My friend said it starts and finishes in pokhara.
Kristin says
I would start in Pokhara. I just bussed there from Kathmandu
puran says
Very useful blog with panoramic photos during Annapurna circuit trek
Hope you enjoy a lot of
Keep it up
Rocky chakraborty says
Hii, kristin
Myself Rocky, & ActlyI was searching about annapurna trek then i just found your web page, then i started reading about your travel experience all around the world,itz just awesome, your lifestyle inspires me lot,My dream is just like you ” travel the world” meet new people,know about their culture, bt at the same time life dont always gives you what you want, itz very difficult to survive in this world rather than travel at this time, soooooooo , wish i could be like you someday !! youre living your dream thats the biggest thing, best of luck in the future travel, lots of love from a traveller to a great TRAVELLER
EP says
Hi, what month did you do this in?
Great photos & stories! Thank you.
Kristin says
April 🙂
Boaz says
Hi Kristin,
Thank you for the detailed description.
Could you please elaborate a little bit on your last day coming down from ABC to Pokhara?
Specifically how did you get a ride back and what was the time table of this day? I want to do a similar hike and wanted to know where and when you caught the bus and how long did it take to go to Pokhara.
Thank you!
Boaz
Kristin says
There are busses that leave periodically when full but I doubt there is any timetable. I can’t recall now how many hours it took but that always varies so much by road conditions, traffic, and the driver. Hope that helps!
Tanya says
I noticed that you did this trek in 14 days… Do you feel like this was enough time or did you feel rushed?
Kristin says
I was told that the circuit would take 14 days but I did both the circuit and sanctuary in 14 days because I did take a bus for part of it. Since I did it, the road has extended even further in, so it is just a matter of if you really want to do it all on foot. I have a very tough time with downhills so I took a bus for part of the downhill.
Rohit Patkar says
Hi Kristin,
Thank you so much for this post. Its inspired me to do the trek, in November.
Congratulations, what a fantastic effort to do this in 14 days! ?
Can I ask you some questions:
1 Can I buy some good energy bars like say Clif bar, and dark chocolate in Pokhara?
2 Also could one but nuts, dry fruits, and good quality dark chocolate in the villages and towns whilst hiking? Or is it best to buy all trail food in Pokhara?
3 I want to travel super light. I’ll be carrying a down vest, and a water proof parka and pants, only as insulation layers.
Do you think I can do without a warm hat, gloves, thermal underwear – both top and bottom?
I’m used to the cold. I’ve have lived in Ladakh in the winter, and have worked as a mountain guide in the Himalayas – Spiti and Ladakh.
Thanks!
Good luck and safe travels! 🙂
Cheers,
Rohit
Kristin says
1. Probably not
2. Probably not!
3. I think you’ll be miserably cold at altitude without these things. It sucks being that cold without a way to warm up. Think about how much heat you lose through your head!
Rohit Patkar says
Thanks a lot, Kristin!
Btw, I read your Alaska post – great stuff! I’ve always wanted to live and travel in Alaska. May be one day I will, God willing 🙂
Take care!
Dilip says
Wow, Kristin, amazing experience to read your 14 days trek in Annapurna region. I like the pictures a lot. Thank you for sharing your story.
Sukriti says
Hi Kristen,
My friend and I are doing this trek in November but we haven’t done any planning yet. The trek companies are charging too much so we thought we could do it by ourselves. Reading your blog makes me feel we could do it. Have a couple of questions for you:
1) Did you have issues getting permits and permissions by yourself?
2) Was it a problem getting accommodation? They say most tea houses fill up fast if you don’t have an advance reservation, especially since November is peak season.
We are two girls. Would you recommend that we do it by ourselves or hire a guide?
Also, do you think I need specialized high mountain hiking boots for this trek. I have regular hiking shoes (not high ankle.)
Thank you Kristin.
Regards,
Sukriti
Kristin says
Hi Surkriti,
1) Not at all. Just bring the required documents and you should be fine. I did it the day before I started my trek.
2) Also not a problem, however November is the highest season. I didn’t know it was even possible to book in advance. When I went in 2014 it was all first-come first-serve
I did not feel that I needed a guide at any point. I also did the hike in running shoes!
Krish Gaurav says
Kristin amazing write up. Thank you. Heading there tomorrow.
Akhil Prakash says
I am also planing to hike on March 2018, But I am alone and not on a budget fro hire a guide for as a companion, so can I join with you?
Marika says
Hi there,
Planning a trek in March 2018 for 15 days, not including flying days. This will be my first time trekking with my partner and I had a few questions if you don’t mind!
Is 15 days safely enough time to trek the circuit? I see you did in 14, however, was it ever rushed?
If we are running out of time, are jeeps always an option to take the rest of the way?
Are the jeeps/busses easy to hitch a ride, or do they only come and go certain times or certain days?
Kristin says
Jeeps and buses can take you partway in and partway out. I would not rush acclimatization. That’s a serious thing, so just go at a pace that feels right and if that means you have to drive part of the way out, then so be it. I was going at a pretty fast pace and covering a lot of ground each day – more than the average person was. However I took two full days near the top to acclimate.
Akhil Prakash says
I am also planing to hike on March 2018, But I am alone and not on a budget fro hire a guide for as a companion, so can I join with you?
Savannah says
Hi there, i’m planning on going trekking through Nepal once i graduate high school this year. Your website and photos has got me SOOO excited to do this hike and many others in Nepal. I was just wondering what type of camera you used to take all your photos. I’m looking for a camera, but don’t want to buy a super big expensive camera as I am not an expert at photography and do not want to carry a large bulky camera up and down tones of mountains.
Kristin says
Sounds awesome Savannah! That was a Nikon that they don’t make anymore and it was a bit heavy. These days I wholeheartedly recommend the Sony a6000. I think it’s fantastic for the weight, the value, and the photos it takes. Plus it has so many features. I wrote about it all here:
https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/best-travel-camera-2017/
Jason says
Thank you for this guide! I just got back from the Annapurna Circuit, and your guide was very useful! We went from Chame to Birethanti in 14 days (with a crazy 4 hour bus ride from Jomsom to Tatopani). I don’t know how you covered some of the distances you covered in that time, nice job!
You said you went to “Bamboo via Tadopani to begin the ABC trek.” I think you meant “Tadapani”.
Kristin says
Glad to hear it worked out well for you, Jason! Thanks for the correction.
CY Tan says
Hi Kristin,
I chanced on your website and immediately was drawn in by by your writings and photographs. You exude a streak of joy and curiosity as a traveler. I could share many of your sentiments and your photos bring me warmth and certain intimacy as I too experienced similar journey.
I am also a solo traveler and enjoy taking photos. My first trekking Mt. Kinabalu 10 years ago gave me confidence and motivated me to more trekking and backpacking.
I went on Annapurna Circuit on November 2010 with a group of friends (salute to you for doing without a guide!). I like your jumping poses on the summit snow! Strange, we didn’t have snow on the spot.
Thanks and regards,
CY Tan
Akhil Prakash says
I want to do it but I am my friends not interested to hike. So is there any one going on march/2018 and can I join you?
tiffany says
I’m planning on it!
Mary Young says
Woah! loved reading every bit of it.. I so wanna go right now
Kelsey says
Love reading about your trip! Did you find any guide books that were helpful in planning this adventure?
Kristin says
I never read them honestly. The trail is very clear so you should be fine 🙂
Esther says
Wow, Kristin, I love your blog. You are an inspiration to many. I started last year, at age 66, to fulfill my bucket list of traveling the world solo on my small government pension. Living frugally, I was able to visit the UK, DK, Israel, Jordan, Egypt, France, Spain, and Portugal over a period of 7 months. I also walked 310 km of the Camino Frances through Spain. My goal is to visit all 194 countries that will let me enter, visit or hike to the highest and lowest elevations, visit some of the major UNESCO sites, and volunteer a bit of time in each country leaving it a little better than when I arrived.
This fall I’m starting in Nepal for 2 months, then visiting south Asia, and ending with 2 months in Pakistan.
I’m curious as to what you carried in your backpack. I read the link to what you took but there was no mention of anything besides a basic change of clothes, running shoes, a water bottle & purifier.
Did you not take anything else? You took your phone &/ or camera? What about a medicine kit? Did you or others get any blisters on your trek ? What toiletries did you take? Sunscreen?
Thank your for your great blog. Love your pictures!
Kristin says
Amazing! I took my camera and my phone, yes. I didn’t get blisters, luckily. Sunscreen yes.
Miguel Neves says
Incredible story Kristin! I’m thinking of doing the same in October and i’m also going solo but i’m not that much of an experienced trekker, I am in shape though. Was the altitude that much of a problem?
Did you find places to buy food along the way or did you bring everything from Pokhara? Any more recommendations for someone who wants to go at it solo?
Kristin says
The teahouses all serve food so no need to bring your own. Usually you negotiate your room rate based on eating your breakfast and dinner at the teahouse. Altitude doesn’t really have to do with fitness, honestly. Take your time acclimating and honor your body, that’s my best advice. This was my first multi day trek too!
Tushar says
Amazing post…. Much inspired, already feeling confident. Had been searching over internet for stories of trekking in nepal by yourself.. without a guide… Your experience took me there … Thanks for sharing it…
Cheers!
Subcribed you 🙂
Kristin says
Awesome so glad you found what you needed!
Tushar says
Finally am heading to nepal next month, got my leave and a booked my tickets. 🙂 Read this one for the 4-5th time again.. Made my itinerary with the help of this one 🙂 Read many blogs but so far this has been the best! .. Also got that reward from booking cuz of you!
Hope some day i could travel as crazy as you!
Kristin says
Awesome! LMK how it goes for you!
Kathleen says
Going myself later this year… can’t wait! Maybe a stupid question, but how did you know which way to go without a guide?
Super informative! Thanks!
Kristin says
The trail was pretty easy to follow and if you’re not sure, just wait a second until someone comes along the trail. It’s popular enough that you can always fall back on that plan 🙂
Nick says
Hi Kristin, thanks for the guide – really useful I just wondered what time of year you did the Annapurna trek? Thanks
Kristin says
April 🙂
Sanath Kumar S says
Amazing kristin ! After reading this, i feel i must go by my own now to explore as earlier i was planning to go with a package trek.The pictures are beautiful.
Kristin says
Oh good have fun!
Shiv Pratap Singh says
Can you please tell me about the total cost or the budget of the whole trek if I am solo travelling.
Kristin says
I’d budget an average of $20 per day.
Shiv Pratap Singh says
I’ve read in some blogs that we can start the trek from chame or manang so as to save time and money, those blog mentioned that till besisahar we can come on a local bus and from there to manang/chame we could get a sharing jeep? is this trure?
Kristin says
At the time that I wrote this it wasn’t possible to take a jeep all the way to Manang (You’d be cutting out almost all of the trek) but it was possible to get to Chame. I didn’t because I wanted to hike it. I have heard that the road has extended further into the trail each year so I suppose it’s possible now!
Tushar says
Hi Kristin,
I Have a doubt may be you could help me out here 🙂
I have made my trip Itinerary for Thorong La pass trek based on your blog, will be starting on the 15-16th October. (Damn excited for it )
While am also reading about Thorung Peak (6144m), I was wondering if it is possible to join a group at base camp and then may be head for the Thorung peak with them. Am pretty confident I don’t need a guide up till the Thorung La (5416m)
Any leads / advice / facts / warnings you would like to give ?
Do you know of someone who’s done Thorung Peak?
Namaste from Mumbai 🙂
~Tushar
Kristin says
Hi Tushar, I think normally you’d need to have the guide from the beginning, but you won’t be alone on the trail, and will have plenty of opportunities to meet others and join groups you find along the way just by being social and walking together. That would be my best advice.
Alex says
Hi Kristin!
Love love love your blog! I’m going solo for the month of November. Did you do tilicho lake while you were there? Also – shoes… what did you wear? I’m an avid trail runner and a big part of me wants to stick with what I know – RUNNING SHOES! But, I don’t know if that’s advisable. I noticed your shoes and figured I had to ask! Looking forward to hearing from you.
~Alex
Kristin says
I did it in running shoes and everyone looked at me like I was insane, but they worked for me! It’s a trail so it’s not like you’re walking on glacier moraine or anything rocky. I did not go to Tilicho lake as I heard it was icy at the time and that made it a bit dangerous.
Ankita says
Wow! such a amazing and interesting post. Thanks for providing wonderful pictures and information.
Jun Ramirez says
Hi Kristin,
This is great! I am planning to do the Annapurna circuit without a guide, too. Have you, by any chance, ever been refused to any of the camps because you don’t have a reservation? What are the other options in cases like these? Thank you very much.
Kristin says
They didn’t even take reservations when I went. There wasn’t internet for that. I’m guessing some are still like that. Most towns had multiple places to stay, although at base camp people had to start sleeping on the floor of the common area and once that was full they had to turn people back down the mountain. I would try not to leave it until it’s almost dark to find a place. Pace yourself accordingly.