Finland is a rich country. What have they got? They got Nokia phones and plywood. How’d they get so rich? Because they’re free.
P. J. O’Rourke
Welcome to the Arctic Circle. Specifically, I’m speaking of Äkäslompolo, and the surrounding Ylläsjarvi, Kolari, and Ylläs ski resort in Finnish Lapland. The snow is of a different form here. Each flake is perfectly formed and it glitters when it catches the sun, or the beams of the a headlight.
It billows down from the sky like a little flying seed from a dandelion – the kind that you blow on when you make a wish. It falls right into place as if it knows where it is meant to go.
The snowflakes come together to build little blankets of powdered sugar, layer upon layer, like the sediments of a lake bed. They do this all over the ground, on every tree, every rock, every rooftop, and every fence post.
I marvel as they stick to my camera on their way down. “They really do each have their own shape,” I keep saying in awe, “they’re so beautiful.”
How have I lived my whole life without a real winter? I suddenly feel deprived rather than thinking smugly that I had the superior end of the stick by avoiding winters while growing up in Southern California. Yet while looking at this, I can imagine a reality where I spend every winter in this snow globe world.
The winter in Finnish Lapland isn’t just any winter, though. It’s different to the apres-ski parties and giant slopes full of gondolas in Austria – which I love, too. But for those seeking something a little different, this is the place.
Finnish Lapland is special because feels so incredibly secluded, so profoundly quiet, and so calmingly peaceful. It took coming here to understand what makes it so special, but I quickly realized that it’s a silence you can’t find just anywhere.
I feel it in the desolate desert, at the peak of a hiking trail that nobody else is on, and now, in the quietness of a frosty forest.
It’s in the ski slopes at Ylläs that are coated in clouds of snow, the cotton candy trees, the feeling of being the only one there. It’s like a storybook fantasy world adorned in white and it’s so calming, you wonder for a moment if you could happily just remain there forever.
I know that in some part of the world it’s summer and there are warm beaches and sand so hot it burns your feet when you walk on it, but I don’t yearn for that at all in this sparkling white paradise.
The areas of Ylläs, Äkäslompolo, and the surroundings are just like the documentaries about the Arctic that I used to watch on TV years ago and think to myself that nothing could be that secluded yet simultaneously accessible by humans. Now I know, oh but it can!
The very idea of -30 degrees used to be terrifying to me, but then I realized that it was just simple fear, and in actuality it’s not that scary to be so cold. It’s actually a blessing. Where else do you get the stillness, the crispness of the air, the indescribable pinkness of the sun, and the kind of snowflake that crackles like poprocks on your tongue when you lick it? Enjoying it is not complicated with the right outfit choice. In reality, the snowy surroundings are yours without much discomfort.
In most of the world, people loathe the winter, but here, Locals will say its their favorite season and I can understand why. The Arctic winter offers a beautiful stillness, and an endless sunset as the sun just rests on the horizon for hours, never fully rising.
Plus, there’s an incredible amount of things to do there. You can Nordic ski, snow-shoe (day or night, it’s no problem), hunt for the Northern Lights, ride on the back of a husky or reindeer sleigh, go snowmobiling, or my personal favorite, Alpine skiing.
Then after it all, when you come home to a cozy BnB with a reindeer steak waiting for you, you realize winter brings with it some special methods of enjoyment.
Like a sauna followed by a dip in ice water, and a glass of champagne in a hot tub thereafter. Where else can you fully enjoy 40-degree water while the stars come out and the snow falls around you?
So if you’re like me and the very thought of winter scares you, I bet this will change your mind completely.
Finland, thanks for showing me that winter is wonderful, too. You opened up my eyes to so many travel possibilities with just one trip.
Do it yourself:
- Getting there: Fly into either Rovaniemi or Kittila via Helsinki. The flights are surprisingly convenient, especially through Helsinki.
- Though there are busses and taxis, renting a car will give you ultimate freedom. Driving in that kind of weather is, shall we say, interesting but not impossible!
- Eat: Reindeer and salmon are the most common offering. Besides the food at Aurora Estate, the best food I had was at Pihvikeisari where everything is local and homemade. It seems like it wouldn’t be good because it has a big ‘souvenirs’ sign and appears touristy but it’s actually, delightfully, quite the opposite!
- Stay: I can’t say enough positive things about Aurora Estate. They just opened a few months ago but the owners are two young entrepreneurial women with an absolutely beautiful location and a very cozy BnB, plus the food is incredible.
- Do: Check out my post on Awesome things to do in Finland!
- Pack: Check out my ski trip packing list
*In the spirit of full disclosure, this post was brought to you thanks to Visit Finland and Visit Ylläs. The above thoughts are my own and you can always trust that I will never promote something I don’t love.
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Nathan says
Absolutely loving the increase in posts! All your talk of snow and skiing is making me seriously consider skiing in certain countries when I start travelling in August. I haven’t skied in about a decade and I’ve missed it so much lately, and I imagine countries like Nepal would be amazing for it!
Finland looks bloody beautiful.. I never realised Lapland was actually a place, and it really does look like a fairytale world!
P.s. I’m very excited for your Patagonia posts 🙂
Kristin says
I don’t know of ski resorts in Nepal but maybe there is something! If not, the Alps are always divine and who knew Finland was such a great place too? So much snow!
Nathan says
I know India has a few resorts in the Himalayas, and there’s the Japanese Alps. So much potential to ski! I thought Patagonia might have some too?
Kristin says
There’s one spot in Bariloche but after looking at the lifts, I think I’ll stick to Europe.
Ijana says
Yay your Finland posts! Your winter posts are amazing, this is exactly how I feel about winter. I’ve found a lot of people have this mental block about winter, whether they’ve really experienced it before or not. I’m not sure why some people and cities are like that when other people in other cities love winter and really do it up right. Obviously it doesn’t just depend on where you live but some places really do seem to appreciate winter more than others.
Kristin says
I was surprised when all of the people I met in Lapland told me winter is their favorite season, and one guy who lives in Scotland now comes home specifically for winter! I totally get it, it’s otherworldly there with all that snow and the stillness and clarity.
Elina says
Glad you liked Finland! One of the best things about this country is how it’s so scarcely inhabited that you can get that feeling of peace and isolation anywhere in the country. I gotta admit that even I haven’t even been norther than Rovaniemi and even though I would love love love to visit those areas, I could never actually live there. Winters here in southern Finland are a bit more shit but mostly the temperatures stay above -10 C so I’m happy with that (y)
Kristin says
Since it’s a dry cold it was ok with me! Plus, the possibility of northern lights is huge for me.
Danny says
These pictures are absolutely beautiful! I’ve only ever been to Helsinki (and that was in the summer), but Finnish Lapland looks absolutely breathtaking. I don’t consider myself a winter person, but I might be willing to make an exception for something like this. 🙂
Kristin says
I didn’t think I was either, then I realized I never understood what winter really is. It can be just as fun and beautiful as a sunny beach – they’re just different and both are great.
Susanne says
This. is. heaven.
I love Finland, I’ve only visited the southern part around Helsinki and Lahti, but coming back to explore the north has been on my list ever since I came back home. Your post made me want to book a flight immediately, haha, wish I didn’t have school to finish this spring 😀
Kristin says
I’d love to check out the southern part as well! So much beauty there.
Sheri says
Wow! I’m completing my first atw trip and already adding new places like this to my bucket list. Your photos look stunning here. Winter agrees with you!
Mary @ Green Global Travel says
The scenery looks amazing. Finnish Lapland looks like an absolute winter wonderland and a wonderful place to be active.
Gina Gomez says
Wow! Finland never stops on impressing me. It seems like I have a new destination to travel. The places are much more exciting.
Kristin says
Same I had no idea that I would love it so much there.
Jess says
Hi! Can you tell me more about driving on the road in the middle of winter? We are planning to go to the same area early January next year and are planning to rent a car. What will the road condition be like and will it be dark most of the time? Thanks!
Kristin says
I was there in January too. The sun came up around 10am and went down around 4pm. Not too bad. It’s snowy for sure but there aren’t many cars on the road and if you have a solid vehicle and experience should be OK
Jess says
Thanks for the reply, Kristin! May I ask where is the scenic drive near Akaslompolo mentioned in your article?
Kristin says
It’s the name of the street that runs from one ski area to the other
Jess says
Can you please show me the location of the scenic drive near Akaslompolo? I cannot find it on google map. How long was the trail and how long did it tale to snowshoe there?
Jess says
Hi! Can you share what type of jacket did you wear that kept you warm in Finland in January?
Kristin says
Here you go: http://amzn.to/1NExLzp (this one is very similar)
Carolina says
I just read your post and fell in love! I was in Finland last year and your words say everything I wanted to say about that country, especially the north … It’s definitely the perfect place!
Kristin says
Yay glad you connected with what I wrote! It’s so magical there.
Tim Owen says
We love Äkäslompolo and it’s become a New Year tradition for us. We’ll be heading out there in a month for the fourth year in a row, this time with the novelty of an excited nephew coming with us 🙂
Kristin says
Oh how nice! It’s magical there I want to go back.