Standing in a garage in East London, South Africa, entertaining myself by looking at the photos on the wall while my road trip buddy, Callum, tested out a motorcycle, I saw it for the first time – the Okavango Delta in Botswana.
Repeatedly mentioning that he was a professional photographer, very well known in the area indeed, the owner of the bike (and photos) explained that this was one of the best places in all of southern Africa for wildlife viewing, especially by plane.
In all honesty I had never really thought about or heard much about Botswana prior to gazing, mouth ajar from awe, at the glorious photos of the blue and green grasslands, speckled with buffalo and elephants.
Even though Namibia was wonderfully warm, and bright, and left a long-lasting and positive impression on me, as far as wildlife viewing goes, Botswana wins out. Here are the places I visited to illustrate why it was so impressive:
Okavango Delta
This is an inland delta and UNESCO World Heritage Site with marshes that flood seasonally from March to June (I was there in April). The 250km by 150km area floods with a whopping 11,000,000,000,000 litres of water during this season. Yeah, wow!
It’s an enormous area, full of herds of large mammals — 200,000 of them to be precise — that are best viewed from above. Most importantly to me, it is home to elephants and hippos – two animals that are more murderous and dangerous to humans than any others, but for some reason look like they’d love a big ol’ hug.
The above shots were all taken from a lightweight plane ride over the delta that lasted for about 45 minutes. It’s a great way to cover a large area and to spot the wildlife given it’s so spread and marshy which makes it difficult to cover on the ground. Viewing from above was great not just for the benefit of not disturbing the animals, but to observe the beauty of the delta as well.
Glamping the following evening at Elephant Camp was another highlight. After spending two weeks in a tent with a mat and sleeping bag, some nights of which were wet thanks to rainy season, sleeping in a fixed tent with its own en-suite bathrooms was quite a treat.
The usual chores each member of my overland safari with Acacia was responsible for were on hold for those nights, and the attentive staff cooked all the meals and did all the cleaning. This was a real plus for me because I can be unbelievably lazy about mopping.
I’m not the only one, right?
I spent the day there trying to master the makoro, which is ridiculously hard to balance on given its light weight.
Wading through the delta is a sublime experience. It was so peaceful and so easy to get to an area where nobody else was around. It would also be easy to get lost, so keep that in mind if you find yourself there and don’t meander too far from camp.
I loved the friendly staff there, including my makoro captain, Tom, who manned the boat the following morning at sunrise. He took the extra time to point out every snake and frog he saw.
We got along well and had lovely conversations, he telling me all about the delta and what it’s like to grow up there. When I asked if he’s fallen in the river before while rowing he laughed and confirmed that as a child he had several times. It’s a steep learning curve.
He even invited me to come back one day to make my own makoro, and extended his contact info. He even included his P.O. box. Don’t ever stop being a G, Tom.
Elephant Sands, Nata
Elephant Sands campground has one of the only watering holes in the area that isn’t salty, and that is important for one reason and one reason only – ridiculous amounts of elephants!
This was a way to see wild elephants closer than I ever had before. I got a chance in Sri Lanka, and interacted with rescued domesticated elephants in Thailand, but to see the African elephant this up close was incredible.
African elephants are massive. The smallest adult African elephant I saw was about the size of the largest Asian elephant I’d ever seen, and unlike in Asia, both male and female elephants in Africa have tusks. They use them to scratch bark off of trees, which makes up a big part of their diet.
A few other unique traits include two “fingers” on an African elephant’s trunk, an extra pair of ribs, a completely different head shape with no “dent,” concave rather than convex back arch, much less hair than Asian elephants, and no freckles or skin tone variations. Here’s an illustration if you’d like to see how dissimilar they are physically.
The only thing separating people from the elephants is a 3-foot (1 meter) high concrete wall which is enough since elephants can’t step very high. They’re almost close enough to touch.
I kept thinking to myself, no way this would fly in most other parts of the world. This was particularly evident when I walked out of the girl’s bathroom and heard a loud trumpeting sound from an elephant, warning me that I was too close. You should have seen how quickly I ran!
Walking to the bathrooms where there is no wall and roaming about at night can be dangerous, so keep a light of some sort handy and bring along common sense when staying here.
Chobe National Park
Chobe is famous for the sheer number of animals and likelihood of sightings of some of the biggest and most sought-after creatures. It was among my top choices for safaris in the region mainly due to the beautiful surroundings and multitude of huggable elephants and hippos.
Chobe has an estimated 50,000 elephants which is the highest concentration in Africa.
The riverfront cruise was the best way to take it all in. It allowed us to get close to the animals without stepping into their habitats or line of potential attack. It was also a lovely sunset, and the boat drivers didn’t mind that we brought along our own wine (South African Pinotage, of course) to enjoy along the way.
Do it yourself:
- Okavango Delta plane tours are the best way to see the greatest amount of wildlife, plus the delta is a sight in itself. Delta Rain is the company I went with, and I would recommend them
- Elephant Camp is a great place for glamping on the delta. I really can’t recommend them enough. Bookable through Delta Rain
- Elephant Sands is the name of the camp with the watering hole. Drive right in if entering with a car and camp or book a fixed tent
- I toured all of the above with Acacia Africa as part of an overland camping safari, a method I would highly recommend
*Some of these activities were provided to me for free or at a discount, however, I never mention anything in a positive light on my blog that I did not love. Your trust always comes first.
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Jenia says
The photos are indeed incredible. I think you should check the title of this blog post to how to get wildlife photos than EVERYONE will wanderlust over and over 🙂 Seriously, I have seen so many safari blog posts, but the abundance of animals here is incredible. Nicely done 🙂
Kristin says
Thanks so much, Jenia! It’s really because they were shot in Botswana. The abundance of wildlife there was incredible and this isn’t even 1/10 of the photos I took. It was so cool!
Tash says
Ahh this looks unbelievably amazing! An African safari has always been one of those dreams that seems too far out of reach, too expensive, too good to ever come true, but something like this would be an ideal trip and seems like it’s definitely something worth saving for <3
Kristin says
Some of them are really expensive but luckily this one isn’t bad at all since it’s a camping safari and everyone helps with cleaning and cooking. Totally puts it in reach.
Camels & Chocolate says
How cute are you?!? That top photo is a total winner! I’m a sucker for great wildlife photos, but even better if they also feature a cute human subject, too =)
Kristin says
Haha you should have seen the friend who I was forcing to take the photos. I think she about wanted to kill me by the end of the trip.
Abi says
Oh, how I love Botswana. I have such happy memories of the Okavango Delta, although I regret not making it to Chobe too. You look great in the pics as well, of course 😉 Lovely stuff.
Kristin says
Thank you, Abi! Can’t do it all, right? The delta is gorgeous.
Mindy and Ligeia says
We miss so much being around elephants! Your pictures are stunning! We’ve never seen African elephants, but having spent 2.5 years at Elephant Nature Park in northern Thailand, have spent a bunch of time with Asian elephants. I would really like to see the massive African elephant – love their big ears. 🙂
Kristin says
I didn’t realize you were at ENP for so long! Great place. They really are very different and given your experience you’ll definitely see how massive the differences are! I was blown away by their size. Everything in Africa seems to be more extreme.
Federico says
Great pics and even better trip! One of my dreams is to someday make it to the Okavango delta, hopefully sooner than later. Unfortunately I don’t see it happening anytime soon…
Kristin says
It’ll be there. Beautiful spot 🙂
Diana Edelman says
OK, first off, anything with elephants in the wild, I LOVE. Secondly, I was JUST having a conversation yesterday with my friend because I have all these airline miles to use and was trying to think of places to go. I immediately thought of you and your journeys in Africa and now I am pretty sold I want to go to Namibia and Botswana next!
Kristin says
You definitely should! You would love seeing African elephants given all your experience with the ones in Thailand! It’s not even that expensive from Europe to get there 🙂
Laura says
Your photos are amazing. My in-laws went to Botswana several years ago and loved every moment, but we haven’t had an opportunity to get there yet. Hopefully soon!
Kristin says
It really is gorgeous.
Juno says
What a great adventure! Wildlife in Africa is just too stunning.
Leah says
This looks absolutely incredible! I need to go on better wildlife spotting adventures, this is the real deal. Looks like I’m off to Botswana!
Kristin says
Thanks Leah 🙂 Definitely the real deal!
Grace Blake says
Oh wow so nice to see photos of Botswana! My partner Nic used to manage both camps you visited. Couldn’t agree more that a scenic flight is the best way to see the Okavango Delta. Such an incredible place!
Kristin says
You did?! Wow! I think I remember a Nick (or at least a mention of one) when I was there last. So cool that you found the post. Really loved the glamping camp in the delta. We all agreed it was phenomenal.
Image Earth Blog says
Great post and photos!
Reminds me of when I backpacked alone for 2 months through Africa in 1985; think it may have been a lot harder then than now. During that trip, I also hitch-hiked for 3 weeks in South Africa with another girl I met in a hostel. Great times but also a couple of scary moments 😉
BTW Cool new site also – looks great!
Kristin says
Wow that sounds SO COOL. I hitchhiked in Mozambique but can only imagine what SA was like back then. Not an ideal place to hitch now.
Annabel says
Helps me to remember when I explored alone for 2 months through Africa in 1985; think it might have been a great deal harder then than now. Amid that outing, I likewise bummed a ride for 3 weeks in South Africa with another young lady I met in an inn. Awesome times additionally a few unnerving minutes
Kristin says
I’m sure it was much different than when I traveled there last year! I would have loved to see it, and the rest of the world for that matter, back then, before ubiquitous internet and cell phones.
Martina Cruz says
Wow, what an amazing pictures, Looks very authentic Wildlife, i must say Kristin u deserve a kudos for this amazing Post..Toast to your Adventurous life..!!
Lorenda Beumont says
Great post Kristin! Even though I am South African and live in South Africa, since visiting Botswana for the first time in June this year, it has become my favourite country on Earth! In fact I wouldn’t mind living there! I especially love the fact that there are only about 2 million people!!!
I stayed at three camps: In the Okavango Delta (Eagle Island), Moremi (Khwai) and Chobe (Savute). The Delta is an absolute paradise and I cannot wait to go back, but still need to go to the Serengeti. I agree with you that flying over the Delta is the best way to view this vast and magical place.
Kristin says
I loved it so much too. The nature was my favorite there out of every other country I’ve been to yet, and there was definitely stiff competition!