Vietnam is an essential stop for most people who are backpacking across Southeast Asia. If you want a destination where your money will go far, and where you can get access to jungles, history, beaches, and gorgeous natural areas with ease, then Vietnam is an excellent choice.
Vietnam is also very special when it comes to food. It’s interesting to see the way that it changes from region to region, and yet how cheap and delicious it is, and generally healthy too!
Here’s my guide to many of the best spots in Vietnam, in the direction that I took from South to North. This can easily be reversed if you’re coming from the other direction:
Ho Chi Minh City
Whenever I see a stop motion film or time lapse of Ho Chi Minh City I’m reminded of how crazy it was simply to cross the street there. Everything seems to run in a sort of organized chaos of motorbikes and roundabouts in a city that still has some hints of French colonialism in the architecture and even in the food (Banh Mi in a French roll, anyone?).
Formerly Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City is a very common first stop in Vietnam. For me, it was primarily a foodie adventure and my introduction to Vietnamese cuisine, which must be some of the freshest, most flavorful, and light food I’ve ever tasted.
Apart from stuffing one’s face, there’s a lot of history to explore especially for those interested in visiting the Củ Chi tunnels and the War Remnants museum. Both activities help to give a better understanding of the Vietnam of today.
Stay: Townhouse 50 – walkable to the backpacker area but a nicer part of town, with included breakfast!
Beware: bag snatch thieves are all over HCMC, particularly in the backpacker area. Never take your phone out on the street and if you are walking with a bag, make sure that it has a strong strap it is not easy to slash or you could become a target. I just took my money out in a pocket that buttoned when I left for the evenings so that I wasn’t an attractive target without a bag or a phone.
Mui Ne
Mui Ne is a higher end beach destination with oceanfront resorts. It’s a popular spot for kite surfers and has sand dunes to play in as well.
This is a resort town with less of the debauchery that you’ll find in Nha Trang. If you’re looking for a spot to unwind, Mui Ne is one of the nicer beachy areas in Vietnam.
Da Lat
Beautiful and quirky Da Lat is actually an area where you will find more Vietnamese than Western tourists. It’s a popular local spot which is part of what makes it so cool. The town has great night markets, and an especially festive atmosphere if visiting around lunar new year. The monastery and elephant falls excursions are must-dos. More on how to do them here.
Nha Trang
This is another popular beach destination but though it tends to have more of a party vibe. There are some nice beaches around Nha Trang, but for the most part I thought it was a pretty touristy, somewhat seedy alternative to the much nicer Mui Ne and Hoi An.
Stay: Mozjo Inn has the friendliest staff and it’s a fun place to meet other backpackers to head to the beach with.
Yok Don
I ended up at this park simply because I wanted to find one place in Vietnam that was truly off the beaten path. I can say that Yok Don fits the bill, and receives very few tourists each year. It’s a little tricky to get to, but once you do you can get some peace and solitude away from the backpacker crowd and much of anything at all!
Stay: The accommodation is tied to the park, so ask in the HQ when you arrive. It is slightly expensive for a solo backpacker, so bring a friend!
Hoi An
Hoi An is my personal favorite city to visit in Vietnam because for me it’s a triple threat – it’s photogenic, it’s on the beach, and I can get custom made clothes and shoes there. What’s not to love?
Apart from wandering around the old town, checking out the Chinese temples and getting awesome handbags, suits, rompers, dresses, and shoes made, you can enjoy some rest and relaxation as well as this spot is much less crowded than Hanoi or Saigon.
Click for different accommodation options in Hoi An depending on your budget. There are some beautiful options!
Phong Nha Ke Bang
While Hoi An was my favorite city, Phong Nha is my favorite non-urban area in Vietnam. The undulating, unique rock formations and the idyllic rice patties all around this tiny little town just makes it all so dreamy. The locals were friendly and welcoming, flashing peace signs, and there were caves to play in and swim in too. It’s a little slice of paradise.
Not as many backpackers make it here, and that has made all the difference in a positive way. If you love nature, definitely stop in this park, rent a motorbike for a few days, and go have adventures. More on how to do that here.
Hue
Hue primarily entered my itinerary because of bun bo Hue, a soup I was very keen to try. What I found was a quiet city (mostly because it was just after Tet, or Lunar New Year), full of ancient history. It was almost haunting in a way.
I didn’t stay for long, but I highly recommend Jodi’s guide to anyone looking for more on Hue and what to eat there.
Hanoi
My favorite memory of and Hanoi circled around Cafe Giang where I tried the famous Hanoi egg coffee. Please, if you find yourself there, stop everything you’re doing and head to this café. I know it sounds like a gross concoction but egg coffee is like a Cadbury creme egg and a cup of coffee met in heaven and spawned a beautiful love child.
Apart from that, Hanoi is known for its is shopping in both high end shops and excellent markets all around town, and its interesting mix of East and West as the French influence is also still present in the quaint tree-lined city streets and old buildings. It’s also the jumping off point for Halong Bay and Sapa in the north.
Halong bay
All around Hanoi, you’re bound to see signs advertising 2-3 day trips out to Halong Bay, famous for the magical landscape of limestone rocks shooting right up out of the bay’s waters.
The trips usually involve at least one night on the boat and one on an island, and can vary in luxury and price point. The party option is the Castaways Tour which is more of a booze cruise than nature excursion. For something higher end, visit a few tour operators in Hanoi and see who can give you the best price on the tour that suits your desires best. Get a few different prices and negotiate.
Sapa
Spending the night in a Hmong village in Sapa is kind of a must when in Vietnam. It’s a chance to get a local experience as well as seeing some of the most beautiful rice paddies in Vietnam.
I went with a group of 14 other backpackers, taking the overnight bus up from Hanoi. We did a hike, had a few meals around a camp fire, and enjoyed an overnight in the home of our host in the rural area around Sapa. More on how to book here.
Honorable Mention: Phu Quoc
Phu Quoc is an island in the South of Vietnam, closer to Cambodia. I haven’t been, which is why I can’t wholeheartedly recommend it. However, I want to add it here because it’s apparently very laid back, and probably has the best beaches in Vietnam. Judging how close it is to Cambodia and how incredible that coastline is, if you have time, add it to your itinerary (then please come back and comment on your experience!).
Here’s a map to help you plot your points. Actual travel time will be much longer on buses, motorbikes, and trains, but this can give you a sense of distances:
Transport tips:
Getting in:
Vietnam requires that most tourists have a visa. For Americans and most other nationalities, the best way is to obtain the 30-day visa ahead of time in the capital city of a nearby country at the Vietnamese embassy or consulate. You can also buy a visa online (I used myvietnamvisa.com), print the approval letter, bring along passport sized photos, and pay a $45 stamping fee when you arrive. Definitely bring USD to pay the fee, as any other currency will cost more! The ATM in the airport also rarely works.
Transport-wise, there are several easy ways to get around Vietnam:
- Buses: I mostly took buses, which usually provide a snack and are quite comfortable, with flat beds for longer or overnight journeys. They are also easier to book on short notice than the train during lunar new year
- Trains: This is the most popular method for getting around Vietnam and also quite comfortable, but it’s important to book in advance during holidays like Lunar New Year.
- Motorbike: It’s also popular to buy a motorbike and take it from top to the bottom of Vietnam, or vice versa. The upsides are, of course, the adventure and the freedom. It’s impossible to imagine coming out of an experience like that without more than a few good stories. However you can also plan on hanging out at the mechanic, spending a lot of time in Vietnam, and potentially crashing. Sometimes people give up and saw their bikes partway through, so you might get lucky and be able to buy a bike in Hoi An.
- Taxis: In cities, taxis are a good option if and only if you take the right companies. To avoid scams, always insist on the meter, including to and from the airport, and take a Vinasun or Mai Linh taxi. Those two companies do not rig the meter nor scam tourists. The others often do!
Vietnam is an adventure, and it can be a ton of fun and delicious too. Plus, with the ease of getting around and the cheapness of the country for visitors, it’s a no-brainer for those backpacking around Southeast Asia.
Image Earth Travel says
Great post and photos!
This reminded me of our 2+ months backpacking through Vietnam back in 2014 – I’d love to return.
Grainne says
I would definitely add Ninh Binh, it is the perfect chillout place only a couple of hours away from Hanoi…it’s known as Halong Bay on the rice paddies…without all of the tourists.
Erica says
I love this guide and the one you posted on Thailand a few days ago! I’m planning a long-term Asia trip with my boyfriend for next year and these guides will definitely be coming in handy! 🙂
Kristin says
Awesome! Is there any other info you’re looking for an not finding? I’m happy to make more!
Elina says
I came here to look at the pictures and to see if you had the same itinerary as I did, haha. I would also add Tam Coc, if you liked Nha Trang it’s a very similar environment with boat tours in the river and ancient heritage sites to explore on a motorbike, it was one of my favourite places in Vietnam.
(I also went to Phu Quoc and it rained heavily the whole time. FML.)
Also about the visas: a lot of nationalities now can get in for 14 days without a visa, but unfortunately I don’t think that includes Americans – and who wants to only spend two weeks in Vietnam anyway?? I overlanded from Cambodia and to avoid the embassy hassle I paid an agency in Phnom Penh (recommended by my hostel) 50 dollars and they had the visa ready in a day. In my opinion that’s the easiest way to do it if you’re taking a bus into Vietnam.
Not sure if you knew these things already, but thought I’d put in my two cents 🙂
Ijana Loss says
Vietnam often plays second fiddle to Thailand, but it seems there’s enough to do here to fill an entire trip by itself! I like the idea of Vietnam because the route is a straightforward north-south line lol, so there’s no question where to go next.
Kristin says
Lol I like that too. I found Vietnam to be a little bit less touristy
Pilot Mark says
The sand dunes in Mui Ne are beautiful; they remind me of La Guajira in Colombia where the desert meets the sea. Asia is such a diverse continent – I loved Hong Kong but am itching to visit Vietnam.
Vanessa says
This is a very helpful post! When do you think is the best time to visit Vietnam?
Kristin says
any and all times but I thought it was particularly pretty and festive during Tet (lunar new year)
Brady and Shelly says
Great post! I love Vietnam and the food is simply amazing everywhere! Backpacking Vietnam is easy and safe. We did the reunification express train and took our time going north to south which stopped by some of the places you mention. We however liked Nha Trang mostly because we are SCUBA Divers and the diving is decent there. Agree with Hoi An of course. We stayed at Cat Ba island in Halong Bay. Great place to stay, cheap cheap cheap and you can get on junks to tour the bay easily without booking from some weird Hanoi travel agency brochure that misrepresents the tour.
Kristin says
LOVE that suggestion for Halong Bay! Thanks so much and I need to stay there next time!
Nidhi says
Hello Kristin,
Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to share such amazing details.
I am planning my first solo backpack trip to Vietnam and i am following your blog as a Bible for my trip.
I would really appreciate your help in planning my trip further, I think you were on a long trip, i have just 9 days to explore the entire country, i will reach Hanoi and leave from Ho Chi Minh.
Can you please suggest which places should i go and which i can miss.
I also wanted to know how to go from Halong Bay to Nha Trang or Hoi An.
Thank you
Kristin says
Hmm, definitely see Hoi An. You’ll want to break it up anyways with a stop in the middle. You can take overnight trains in order to help save time as well. I couldn’t do trains because it was Tet so they were booked up, but any other time of year it should be possible. I did overnight buses which aren’t as much fun, but still get the job done. Halong Bay takes at least 2-3 days, and usually people do tours that bring them from Hanoi up there and back down. I thought it was just OK even though yes, it’s pretty. I loved Phong Nha the most, but that’s just because I love small villages when I travel. If you can go there, do it!
Nidhi says
Thank you very much Kristin.
You are very very kind.
I feel motivated to go
I am going next week.
Nidhi says
Dear Kristin, this is what my temporary itinerary looks like, would be really grateful if you could go through it and give your suggestions.
Day 1 Hanoi
Day 2 Halong Bay
Day 3 Halong Bay
Day 4 Travel by train to Hoi An
Day 5 Hoi An
Day 6 Da Lat
Day 7 Mui Ne
Day 8 Ho Chi Minh
Day 9 Return
Kristin says
The problem is taking into account how much travel time is between those places on the chance that you can’t always take an overnight train (plus, you’ll be exhausted). You’ll end up with just a few hours in each spot. I’d remove Da Lat and Mui Ne and give yourself more time in Hoi An so you don’t feel like you’re always on the move. Or, I’d scrap heading south of Hoi An altogether, unless you fly out of Ho Chi Minh. It’s just a lot to try to do in one week.
Nidhi says
Thanx Kristin…. taking into account your suggestions….i have slightly altered my itinerary..i am flying to Da Nang from Halong Bay instead of taking the train…also I am planning just a day tour to Halong Bay instead of staying there for 2 days…If I had to choose between Dalat and Mui Ne…which one would you you suggest?
Kristin says
Depends on what you want. Mui Ne is beaches and sand dunes and Da Lat can actually feel cold, and is more mountainous and has a very local feel.
Filippo says
HI Kristin,
love your blog: very inspirational and since i’m going to Vietnam soon I’m going through all these older posts again 🙂
I had a question I hope you could help me with.
I’m effectively backpacking north to south and will end up in HCMC where I’ll also go to the mekong delta.
After that I’m planning to go to Phu Quoc to finish off the trip. unless I decide to stay in Phu Quoc for longer, I have a couple extra days to potentially spend around HCM. How many days would you recommend spending in HCM? I’m also considering going to Vung Tau for a day or so, but have heard mixed opinions. is there anything else worth exploring in the Area for a day or 2?
many thanks!
Kristin says
A lot of people go to the Chu Chi tunnels outside of HCMC. If you’re a foodie you could explore it endlessly. Jodi is my guru for that https://www.legalnomads.com/saigon-street-food/
Nidhi says
Hey Kristin…I never thank you enough, I just came back from my first solo backpack trip to Vietnam and I cant describe in words how amazing it was and you are largely responsible for it. Thanx to you and your blogs, I had a fair idea of where I had to go and what I was doing.
You inspired and influenced me in a way I’ll never forget. Lots of people helped in making this possible but you my friend were the first one, your blogs were my window into an unknown country.
Hope to meet you some day.
God bless you
Thank you once again
Alessia says
Hi Kristin,
I am planning for Vietnam from february 5 or 6th , for 20 days.
I have read your blog ( and Others) and this is what I have so far
HCMC 2 days
Cha Tho, delta of Mekog 3 days (this can be done as a tour, right?)
Hoi An 5 days
Hue 2 days
Hanoi 2 days + Halong bay 2/3 days + Nin bing 1 day trip
Sapa 2/3 days and back to Hanoi to Fly back
I still have to give a better look at transportations, though.
Do you think it is feasible?
Kristin says
Sure, though I don’t think you really have to plan it ahead that much. I was there during Tet a few years ago and I tended to book things a couple of days ahead of time and just winged it. You might find you want longer in some places and shorter in others. If you’d prefer to look ahead of time, though, this looks good! I’m unsure about the Mekong Delta tour to be honest but most hostels can help you book those.
Tammy says
Hello, I am now following this blog and I love it. I have a few more detailed questions. You mentioned holding on to your purse or not taking money out and putting it away where people can see it. What is the best way to keep a copy of your passport and your money safe while walking the streets, paying for food, and while sleeping?
If you do get attacked or robbed and they are pulling on you and won’t stop, can you fight back or are you going to go to jail if you hit them (not recommended, but sometimes you have to:)
Also, were you concerned about getting bed-bugs and how do all of these places keep the mattresses that are sooo used from getting crabs, lice, and bed bugs?
How do you secure your belongings when you are sleeping in a dorm?
Thank you, I truly enjoy all of your posts.
Tammy
Kristin says
Glad you like the blog! To answer your questions:
– Lock everything up back at the guesthouse/hotel/hostel
– They’re driving by on a motorbike so there’s very little opportunity to fight back.
– I do check for bedbugs. Check the corners of the bed for little spots. I’ve found them twice and decided not to stay.
– Many dorms do have lockers (bring your own lock) and I also use a wire mesh bag protector which has been essential in places where there aren’t lockers. More here: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/packing-for-southeast-asia/
Manh says
Beside the comprehensive information, I must say that you’re a fantastic photographer lol
R & B says
Hi, Kristin. Love the blog!
We are planning a month long trip to Vietnam and Thailand, with emphasis on Vietnam. We thought that was tons of time, but once you put pen to paper figuring our where to go — not so much! To avoid a total whistle-stop tour, among other decisions we think we may need to choose between Halong Bay and Phong Nha. You seem quite bullish on Phong Nha, but of course everyone says one MUST do the Halong Bay cruise.
Would it be madness to skip Halong Bay? Or, we could squeeze in an overnighter in each of those places, although that strikes us as a bit rushed. What do you think? Any thoughts would be hugely appreciated!
Kristin says
Since they’re in completely different parts of the country, I’m wondering why it’s an either/or for those two since you have a month. I personally wasn’t impressed by Halong Bay I’m sad to say, but the weather wasn’t great and I admit it is beautiful, but very touristy. I’d cut out time in the more touristy beach spots. They’re not that special, but Phong Nha, to me, was the best part of Vietnam.
Connie Anderson says
Great post! I have to say that Vietnam is so wonderful. I started my trip there from Ho Chi Minh city then took the flight to Hanoi Capital. The food was so stunning. A bit surprised by the crazy traffic in peak hours :)). After Hanoi, I headed to Lan Ha Bay (near Halong Bay) as my friend’s recommendation and got amazing experiences. The boat I stayed (La Pinta cruise) was so excellent with services and activities. I’m considering the Central ( Hoi An and Nha Trang) for my upcoming trip in Vietnam.
Kristin says
I love the central part. Agreed on the traffic. It’s nuts!