Picture this: It’s one of those nights when the moon rises and everyone says, “wow!” because even though we’ve all seen it countless times before, that night it just managed to look super, mega, cartoonishly huge. I had never seen a moon that big before as it rises.
The sun was setting exactly opposite to the moonrise, reflecting orange and purple across the calm waters of Lake Superior, looking like some kind of psychedelic quicksilver that went from the purple and pink of the sun to the blue and white of the moon.
It was hard to know which direction to look in. That’s the kind of night it was.
“The water’s certainly not always this calm,” warned Captain Jen Dale, and I believed her, because how else would these orange caves of all shapes and sizes exist without the waves that carve them?
These are the sea caves of the Apostle Islands in Wisconsin and they really are incredible in person.
They’re unique to the area thanks to the strand of iron-rich sandstone that comprises the bottom layer of the Apostle Islands, also known as the Devil’s Island Formation, and displayed in the photos you see here. It was deposited approximately one billion years ago.
Deglaciation and erosion of the thin layers of sand created the sea caves found on the cliff faces. The resulting sight is layers of rock that have been chipped away at to form, in some cases, huge caves and diamond-like formations in the rock.
You’re as into rocks as I am, right?
The islands were my main draw for this visit. I’d seen photos on Instagram, (which drives more and more of my travel choices these days, honestly!), and after seeing them, knew that I just had to photograph those caves myself.
It’s not just about the caves, though. There’s something special about Lake Superior, too. Though calm in that moment, I understood it the way I do the ocean – ready to turn to waves and wind at any moment, just not salty kind.
By surface area, Lake Superior is the world’s largest freshwater lake and the third largest by volume. It actually contains 10% of the world’s surface fresh water, so it felt like an ocean!
It’s also incredibly clean, boasting the title of cleanest of the Great Lakes (hopefully it stays that way!).
I’d wanted to see the caves, that was for sure, but I didn’t realize that I’d like the town of Bayfield, the jumping off point for the Apostle Islands, so much too.
Whilst flipping through mostly country and Christian rock radio stations while driving through the countryside from where my plane landed in Ironwood, Michigan to Bayfield, Wisconsin, I readied myself for some serious small-town in the middle of America vibes.
Except that’s not what happened.
I arrived in one of the loveliest, quaintest, most artist-friendly towns I’ve had the pleasure of visiting. This was my first time in the Midwest and I came to find that the stereotype about the incredible friendliness of the locals is true, as well.
Laying in the hammock that night on the boat and looking up at the stars I couldn’t believe what I had stumbled upon. How was it that caves this big and over a lake that clear and lovely didn’t have tons of people visiting them?
I’ve seen other caves over water just once before (the Marble Caves in Chile) and while beautiful, they weren’t nearly as big nor extensive as these.
In the summertime boating around them is a great way to enjoy them. You can charter your own private boat with a captain and open itinerary (Contact Dreamcatcher Sailing to book. It includes two nights of accommodation on the boat and isn’t too expensive when split amongst a group!), which is how I got out to the Devil’s island to see the most impressive caves.
It’s also possible to kayak to the caves on the mainland just a short drive away from Bayfield. I chose a full day of kayaking as well as the sailing, and saw giant cracks in the rock as well:
And in the winter, the caves actually freeze over and the kayaking route turns into a hike.
Great, and now I need to go back in the winter, and probably the fall when the leaves change, too.
Did I forget to mention the camping? It was lovely, too.
I had an entire campsite all to myself, hardly seeing anyone else throughout the day (by choice, as I wanted to be far down on the coast). I made fire from kindling on the ground, made some hobo stew, and watched as a storm thundered through then left a dazzling red sunset in its wake.
It had me wondering if sunsets are just a thing there, along with those amazing caves and that gorgeous lake.
It may have been my first time to the Midwest, but with the impression it made, sailing the Apostle Islands has awakened in me a desire for a lot more America appreciation in my future.
Do it yourself:
- Getting there:
- Fly into Ironwood or Duluth via Chicago and Air Choice One flights. Take a rental car (I used Red’s in Ironwood), the 1.5 hour drive to Bayfield.
- Stay
- The Andrew Tate Condominiums are swanky and big if you want a full apartment
- Harbor Hill House if you’re solo or want to stay at a B&B. Loved the owners here!
- On board the Dreamcatcher
- Take the Apostle Islands Cruises shuttle to Stockton Island or the Madeline Island Ferry over to Madeline Island and camp
- Eat (All of these restaurants are on Rittenhouse Ave., the main street in town)
- Fat Radish is excellent for healthier, local food
- Ethel’s at 250 has great Italian
- Drink
- Visit Tom’s Burned Down Cafe on Madeline Island, just a short ferry ride over from Bayfield. It’s super funky!
- Do
- Kayak with Living Adventure
- Sail with Dreamcatcher Sailing
- Visit the orchards and pick fruit
- Camp and hike!
*This post was brought to you in collaboration with Travel Wisconsin. A special thanks for the great experience! They did not ask me to write a favorable review and all loving words towards the caves are my own.
Ryan says
Ah, WOW! I would have never thought this would be in Wisconsin. WOW. I need to visit Lake Superior and the caves then…given I have a slight obsession with cave exploring in general. And given I’ve been living on sailboats for a while now, that’d be a sweet way to see it. Love the quicksilver description =)
Jessica says
I’ve lived in the US my entire life and have never heard of these once! Thanks for adding another spot to my “places I can go after my husband makes me have kids” list 🙂
Ijana says
This looks amazing! I had no idea this was in Wisconsin. I forget that there’s a whole lot of cool stuff in the Great Lakes area, I usually just kind of write it off as redneck midwest lol. I really really want to go there now!!
Umur D says
Nice post though.. Thanks..
Honey says
Here I thought that there wasn’t anything else to see in America. You’ve reinvigorated my thoughts into travelling WITHIN my country as well as outside of it. This is such a beautiful looking place. I am now planning a trip here because of you!
Tommy LeBeau says
Been going there every year since 99, it’s perfect
Dawn Haugen says
We made our way from Duluth MN with our two teenagers to the Apostle Islands the last two summers. I was in awe of the beauty everywhere I looked. The sunrises, sunsets, rocks on the beach, and water so clear you can see the bottom at 40 feet deep. The Milky Way at night, the sand caves, island beaches, and waffles for breakfast at City Dock in Bayfield. Eggs Benedict at Gruenke’s, salt water taffy, hot pepper bacon jam, and pop rocks from Sweet Sailing. Fresh blueberries, and smoked whitefish everywhere. The Tiki Bar in Corny, diving from the pulpit, grilling on the stern rail, exploring the islands, hanging towels and swimsuits from the rigging, and the sweet, fresh breezes. There is nothing like being rocked to sleep by the Big Lake, or having your morning coffee on the deck. Sanctuary.
Kristin says
So well said and you just made me incredibly nostalgic for it. Was a good ol’ American summer experience and it made me want to travel through the midwest a lot more.
Miranda says
I love this article! This is exactly what my boyfriend and I are planning for the next upcoming weekends. We are finding complications on where to stay. Where did you set up camp and how did you find a place? Was is a campground or did you just pop a squat wherever you felt like it?? All information is much appreciated!
-An aspiring adventurer
Kristin says
Hey! On Stockton island I had a camping reservation already and in town I stayed at an apartment one night and on the boat one night as well, which was pretty cool 🙂
Anna says
I am from Wisconsin and am so HAPPY a travel blogger finally covered this. It’s such a stunning, hidden gem of Wisconsin. We do more than just drink beer and eat cheese (although there’s a lot of that too). Your photos are so wonderful!
Kristin says
I couldn’t believe this was out there and that I’d never heard of it. So beautiful!
Nate says
You have to come visit more! You would love the Boundary Waters area as well as the North Shore of Lake Superior. So much beauty everywhere up there.
Kristin says
Agreed I would love to explore more!
Gioko Pat says
This is good stuff. Who could have guessed that Wisconsin holds such a beautiful sailing destination. Lovely images you have here too.
Diane says
I’ve had this place on my bucket list for YEARS. I’ve been waiting for my youngest to be old enough to kayak on his own for a day to various islands and this summer is IT! We are heading from “out west” with a group of friends to experience.
I’m curious. On your Dreamcatcher cruise, which one did you get and took you to Devil’s Island? Did you do the 2-3 day or just the full day with the complimentary overnight? Or custom?
Kristin says
It was a custom one with an overnight on the boat in the harbor and then out near the devil’s island.
KaseyA says
Where exactly is the rock formation that you labeled “the best kind of diamond”?
Kristin says
It’s on Devil’s island. You’ll need to take a boat over.
Becky says
I’m from WI and the whole NW part of the state is my happy place. Please be sure to come back to visit the ice caves in the winter. They can be tricky to plan around but so worth it!
Kristin says
I’ve heard but I would LOVE to see them covered in ice!
Jenn says
This is my dream vacation. I live near by but haven’t’ had the time off to actually do it yet. Hopefully this winter I’ll be able to explore the ice caves!
Kristin says
I’d love to see them all iced over!