Pai, just a few hours outside of Thailand’s second biggest city, Chiang Mai, is a hippie oasis I’ve been dreaming about ever since I left. I had visited for 5 days almost exactly a year before, and had loved it so much that it made my very short list of places I just had to return to.
When my time in Europe drew to a close, I knew where the first leg of my third Asian journey would take me: right back to Pai.
Why do I love it so much? Let me count the ways:
1) Mhor Phaeng Waterfall
Or known as the “slide” waterfall, given there are a few parts along the falls that can be slid down or even jumped into.
On a hot day (and let’s be real, they’re all hot in Pai!) it’s an amazingly refreshing way to cool off. Plus, I love the drive to this place.
As serendipity would have it, I met a French guy who found some sunglasses on the lagoon floor, decided they didn’t suit him, and passed them onto me (thanks!), followed by taking a group of Thai kids up on their offer to help pull me out of the lagoon so I could slide again. It’s just a feel-good place.
2) The Canyon
The Pai Canyon’s landscape is truly unique. Tall pillars of rock make for quite the treacherous and interesting climb, but a worthwhile one, because the vista is simply beautiful.
3) The Land Split
I dedicated an entire separate post to this one, just because I think it’s such a cool idea. The farmer who owned the land happened upon a giant crack in his soybean farm one day several years ago.
With his crop and land destroyed, he came up with a creative new plan: he now makes jams and drinks out of hibiscus and offers tourists a place to relax during the day while dining on fruit. He simply asks for a donation in return.
4) Pembok Waterfall
Also known as the “jumpy” waterfall, since there’s a rock to jump off of and a pool just deep enough to accommodate it, this is my favorite waterfall because I can swim right up to it and stick my face under the running water.
Plus, it’s just such a serene place and the drive to get there is beautiful. I’ve returned five times just to experience it again and again.
5) The drive from Pai to Mae Hong Son
Driving by motorbike all around Pai is probably my favorite part of visiting (but seriously, get travel insurance before you attempt it, just in case). I haven’t really seen landscape that is more naturally stunning than that surrounding Pai, especially the 2-hour drive to Mae Hong Son.
It was cool seeing the town itself, but the drive was more of the draw for me. I had just learned how to ride a motorbike and really enjoyed the feeling of the wind in my hair.
6) Captain Jack Sparrow
Always in character, selling postcards, and even sporting a Captain Jack Sparrow email address, this guy truly is the Thai Captain Jack Sparrow:
7) The Circuis school
I’ve always wanted to learn how to dance with fire, and had no idea that it was so easy to pick up.
This is what I learned in only a few hours without ever having touched poi before. Well done, circus school!
8) The people I meet there
When asked what it is that I really, truly love about Pai, I always respond that it’s the people I meet there. Last year, I met a group of three other girls whom I toured the rest of Thailand with, and have since met up with in Melbourne and again in London. Another friend I met there ended up being my roommate in Melbourne. This time around, I was lucky enough to meet up with another close friend whom I met in Pai a year ago, which was wonderful.
On my last day there before heading to Chiang Mai for Yi Peng, I looked around my group and realized that we were all solo travelers from different parts of the world who had been strangers days before and were now new friends. It’s truly wonderful knowing that this is the kind of place I’ll always meet amazing people who I’ll wish to keep in touch with.
(Book Pai hotels here, or hostels, if that’s more your thing 😉 )
Want to do it yourself? All of these attractions are best accessed with a motorbike, which can be rented in town from Aya Rentals or your guesthouse.
Lois says
12/09/2013 at 9:05 amI think everyone who comes to Pai just leaves their heart here. This is what I wrote about it 2 years ago: http://www.wearesolesisters.com/2011/11/10-reasons-why-i-fell-in-love-with-pai.html
Can’t wait to come back this weekend and do the Pai-Mae Hong Son Loop again.
Kristin says
12/09/2013 at 7:35 pmI think so too. That’s why I had to go back!
Axel says
08/04/2018 at 9:51 pmBecause Pai is very cozy place =)
Jeremy says
12/09/2013 at 9:14 amDon’t forget about Fluid! It’s a random pool club down the street from Spicy Pai Hostel that costs like a dollar for the entire day and has an amazing olympic sized pool, “gym”, restaurant, books, wi-fi and a really chill vibe.
Kristin says
12/09/2013 at 7:34 pmI went once and it was cool. I just much prefer the waterfalls so it didn’t make my list. I kind of hate chlorine 🙂
Simone says
12/09/2013 at 2:01 pmGreat list! We are adding this to our must see list. We head to Thailand in a few months. Thanks!
Kristin says
12/09/2013 at 7:34 pmwonderful enjoy!
Stephen says
12/09/2013 at 2:45 pmI stopped in Pai about 3.5 years ago and it was OK…didn’t see what all the fuss is about. I guess I’ll have to go back and check out some of those waterfalls!
Kristin says
12/09/2013 at 7:33 pmThe town itself isn’t that amazing for more than a day or two. You’ve really got to take motorbikes and explore the outskirts – that’s where the really cool stuff is.
Alexandra says
12/09/2013 at 5:41 pmI LOVE PAI!!! It really is such a great town. Although I am afraid that it is one of those places that will be ruined by all the hype. I hope it manages to keep its unique character for years to come.
Kristin says
12/09/2013 at 7:33 pmPossibly. I heard it’s much different than it was 8 years ago, which I suppose is to be expected. Seems most of Thailand is rapidly changing.
Naomi says
12/09/2013 at 9:29 pmPAI! That place is a different universe. Still can’t believe that we met at Spicy Pai last year – really feels like you run into everyone in that town when travelling around Asia!
I do miss it…and would put the night market on this list 😉
Kristin says
12/11/2013 at 10:28 amI know! SO funny to run into you again! I knew I recognized you.
Rashaad says
12/09/2013 at 11:53 pmI’ve visited Thailand four times (officially) but I’ve never visited Pai. I haven’t spent a lot of time in Northern Thailand (I’ve only visit Chiang Mai) but if I visit Thailand again, I would love to see Pai.
Does the city attract a lot of Thai tourists?
Hogga says
12/10/2013 at 7:13 amhaha captain jack sparrow
Kristin says
12/11/2013 at 4:32 amI know right?
Steph (@ 20 Years Hence) says
12/16/2013 at 6:21 pmWe fell in love with Pai, too. I’m not sure there’s a prettier part of Thailand than the area it’s nestled in. LOVE!
Susan says
01/03/2014 at 5:34 pmKristin, your blog is so inspiring! I love your stories, but the best part is that I’m planning a trip to South East Asia and it will be my first time in the region and I am just getting so excited reading about your adventures. I just came back for 2 months in the Balkans and now I’m ready for this! Glad I stumbled upon your site 🙂
Kristin says
01/06/2014 at 1:16 amThank you so much for commenting! You’re going to have the best time!
Larry says
01/07/2014 at 6:39 pmHello Kristin! Yes, I agree about Pai! I was there for Christmas several years ago. Yes, great motor bike adventures. Yes, wonderful people. I had a massage from the couple who once trained massage at the hospital in Chiang Mai with an herbal steam bath…my Christmas present to myself! Have you found the Togian Islands yet?
Adventurous Andrea says
05/22/2014 at 7:22 amI’m curious, why do you think so many expats settle in Chiang Mai, opposed to Pai? This place sounds blissful! I was planning on going along with recommendations and making a home base in CM, but your post is really making me reconsider.
Kristin says
05/22/2014 at 7:23 amThe internet is better, so are facilities and it’s a big city rather than a very small town. I’d personally settle in Pai, though!
Kelly says
06/29/2014 at 4:54 amHi! Love your list! I am traveling to Pai soon and was wondering where you recommend staying? I’m a solo traveler as well and want to meet people. Thanks 🙂
Kristin says
06/29/2014 at 11:16 amMost of the hostels there are good for meeting people. Spicy Pai, Purple Monkey, or the cheaper ones on the same street as witching well and ting tong
Kerri says
10/10/2015 at 6:07 amHey,
I will be in Chiang Mai/Pai for a total of five nights 08/01/16 – 13/01/16 as a solo female traveler. Since I only have a short time in the two places i would love some ideas of where you think I should spend most of my time/what I could prioritize when I’m there?
Thank you!
Kristin says
10/12/2015 at 5:58 amDo everything on this list! You can do it all in two days. I have a Chiang Mai list too: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/things-to-do-in-chiang-mai/
Elisa Zen says
01/30/2016 at 9:04 amIncredible! Thailand is a trip I am planning and Pai is for sure a stop I will be making while there!
Bryan says
04/03/2017 at 1:09 amBest place I visited in Thailand! Definitely going back for a longer stay soon!
Sarah says
05/21/2017 at 6:00 pmHi! We have 7 nights to spend in Chiang Mai and Pai. If it were you, how would you divide those days between the two places? We have never ridden motorbikes before, but from what you say here it’s OK in a less trafficky area. Do you think it would be safe to learn here? (:
Kristin says
05/21/2017 at 8:11 pmPai is where I learned. I prefer Pai because i like rural areas more. You could do a couple in Chiang Mai then go to Pai and leave and come back to CM if you don’t love it
Victor Azuga says
10/09/2018 at 1:18 amIt looks like a third world version of West Virginia, but with hippies. I’ll give it a pass. Thanks for the post though. Informative for my travels.
Kristin says
10/10/2018 at 10:20 pmI’m so confused.
Esti says
10/14/2018 at 5:53 pmDying to travel here but worried about how to get there from Chaing Mai. Is the bus/minivan very windy (from everywhere that I am reading). I definitely won’t be able to motorbike the long way either. I really don’t want to journey there to deter me from making it there!!
Any suggestions?
Kristin says
10/14/2018 at 11:08 pmIt’s a mountain road with lots of turns so there’s nothing you can really do to avoid that, but it’s worth it!