The 10-day meditation retreat at Wat Suan Mokkh in Chaiya, Southern Thailand, has been inviting English speakers to learn more about Dharma and meditation for several decades.
Thanks to generous donations of time and supplies, mostly by local Thais, the open-air meditation halls in the beautifully manicured forest of the monastery provide a perfect refuge for both newcomers and those who are deeply familiar with the practice of meditation. The retreat is designed for anyone who wishes to achieve peace, compassion, and an ability to approach destructive emotions in a new and healthy way.
One of the main teachings is to be present and mindful – to let go of the past and not angst over the future. Another teaching is to practice loving kindness towards all beings. Yet another is to recognize what causes pain, and how to approach it in a healthy way. Each of these teachings is meant to lead to inner peace and calm.
If you decide you’d like to give the meditation retreat a try, the best plan of action is to go in with no expectations. One of the main issues with meditation is the near impossibility of achieving it if one desires it. Have an open mind, and be a true student. Also, recognize that this is a Buddhist monastery and, as such, will naturally rely on Buddhist teachings to communicate the meditation methods. Of course, this does not mean you must convert to nor believe in Buddhism.
Be receptive and ready for change. How often do you get ten full days with no speaking and no distractions to truly listen to yourself and recognize what you spend most of your time thinking about, all while surrounded by the beauty of a forest? This, in itself, is a rare treat.
Things to Consider Before Participating:
- Your objectives: you will be interviewed prior to admission into the meditation center, and will be asked what you hope to achieve through the 10-day meditation. To know for yourself why you are participating is a good start.
- Your physical well-being: can you handle concrete beds, hours of sitting meditation (you may not lay down), six hours of sleep, and are you free from physical addictions?
- Can you be respectful of the rules: no smoking, speaking, no killing (this includes mosquitoes, centipedes, spiders, and scorpions, all of which you may encounter), no reading, no writing, no eating past afternoon, no laying down, no jogging or other exercise, no sexual acts, and no straying from the grounds of the meditation center.
- Can you speak English fluently? All instruction and Dhamma talks are given in English.
- The meditation is not rehab. It is not suitable for those suffering from addiction.
Getting There:
- Take the bus from Surat Thani bound for Chumpon for 50 Baht. Tell the bus attendant that you want to stop at Wat Suan Mokkh (What Soo-An Mock) in Chaiya. He/She should know exactly where you intend to go.
- There are two sides to Suan Mokkh: the International Dharma Heritage (IDH) is located on the opposite side of the road from the main monastery where most tourists visit. You can get a ride from the information booth at the main monastery (where you will most likely be dropped off) to the registration area at IDH.
- There are no reservations at Suan Mokkh – simply show up prior to 3pm on registration day, which is the 31st of every month. The earlier, the better.
Helpful Information:
- Sign up for your chore early on registration day in order to avoid getting stuck with a less-than-desirable chore, such as cleaning the toilets or foot baths (that’s twice a day for ten days cleaning out toilets – yuck).
- Bring loose-fitting pants and shirts to keep your person covered without getting too hot – Southern Thailand is nearly always quite warm and humid.
- Bring leggings, an extra sarong, or additional body covering to combat the mosquitoes, which are the worst at Suan Mokkh than I had encountered anywhere else in Southeast Asia.
- Clothing should not be tight, and should cover past the knees and shoulders. Clothing does not need to be white.
What is Provided:
- Mosquito net
- Individual dorm room
- Blanket
- Water bottles with filtered water
- Candle lantern
- Buckets, clothes pins and drying lines for clothing washing
- Daily vegetarian food (most of which would also be suitable for vegans)
- Mats, cushions, and wooden seats for meditation
- Meditation instruction
- Daily yoga instruction from a program participant
What to Bring:
- A towel
- headlamp or flashlight
- Toiletries
- Copious amounts of mosquito repellent
- Toilet paper
- Something to sleep on if you don’t fancy concrete and wooden pillows
- Loose, breathable clothing that covers the shoulders and knees
- A sarong to bathe in (no nudity, uncovered underwear, or bathing suits allowed)
- An umbrella
- Laundry detergent
- Yoga mat (useful but not necessary)
- You may even find a
mosquito tent helpful
- 2000 Thai Baht (the equivalent of USD$60) to donate to the monastery – this is compulsory
What NOT to Bring:
- Any kind of drugs or alcohol
- Cigarettes
- Stimulants such as tea or coffee
- Food or candy
What you will have to submit for safe keeping during the retreat:
- Books
- Computers
- Cameras
- Cell phones
- Passport
- Excess money that you would like kept in a safe (they recommend you keep 500 baht on your person — about USD$15 – to buy provisions at the convenience store, which opens on certain days to sell repellent, toilet paper, candles, etc.)
Read more about the day-to-day schedule and overall experience.
Lauren @ AllThingsGo.co.uk says
07/06/2013 at 2:15 amThanks for the detailed information. I’m in Thailand now looking for a similar experience but looks like I missed the registration day this time around and their website doesn’t work. Do you know of any other retreats like this in Thailand?
Kristin says
07/06/2013 at 9:28 pmHey Lauren. No worries, there are plenty of others. I’m not sure about the quality, but this is the website I used to find Suan Mokkh: http://www.hdamm.de/buddha/mdtctr14.htm and Northern Thailand options are here: http://www.hdamm.de/buddha/mdtctr13.htm
Annemiek says
09/25/2013 at 4:41 amThanks for the peptalk, I am going to Wat Suan Mokkh.. alone, flying the day after tomorrow.
Kristin says
09/25/2013 at 1:15 pmEnjoy it! You’ll do great
bec says
10/13/2013 at 6:03 pmThanks Kristen,
I just wanted to add that the retreat should be “SILENT” I have done a few retreats at Suan Mokkh and just got off another one which was spoilt by young women talking and gesturing. I don’t know what is so hard to understand by “Silent Retreat” other than that it is a wonderful place. If there are talkers on your retreat don’t let them spoil the experience tell the staff and if they keep it up will eventually be kicked out.
Kristin says
10/16/2013 at 3:05 amWow, that’s no good! I didn’t see much of that during my retreat but I agree. Talking really ruins it for everyone.
Travis McKinstry says
10/19/2013 at 8:13 amKristin,
Thanks for the review. I’m curious of the finer details a bit; what were the instructions like? What did the teachers talk about and what was the meditation like?
Thanks for posting this review, I didn’t know about your website until I searched for reviews on Wat Suan Mokkh.
I’ll be reading more often 🙂
Travis
Kristin says
10/21/2013 at 2:22 amIt was pretty Buddhism-oriented. Mostly on how to achieve meditation and such. One of the monks is a British guy who was pretty funny and made it lighthearted, which I really loved. The meditation is conducted using the Anapanasati technique which is to focus on your breathing.
Babette says
11/02/2013 at 2:14 pmHi Kristin,
Loved reading more about all the details from Suan Mokkh.
I’m planning a trip to Thailand the end of this month to go to a retreat, and I really like this one!
Do you have any idea of the age of the people that go there?
I’m for example almost eighteen. Do you think that that is to young?
Kind greetings,
Babette
Kristin says
11/03/2013 at 8:56 amIt was all ages, really. I think the youngest when I went was 22. Will you be 18 by the time you go? I’m not sure it matters but it was definitely all adults, no children.
Maddie says
07/22/2014 at 1:39 amHi
I’m really looking forward to my first retreat there this August, in a couple of weeks. I have a couple of days to myself afterwards. I don’t suppose you can recommend a way to get to a relatively calm, not too crowded beach in the area, or somewhere else to stay in the area?
Kristin says
07/22/2014 at 2:34 amYou’ll be close to Surat Thani which is the jumping off point for places like Koh Tao and Koh Samui. This may come as a surprise but on Koh Phangan of full moon party fame, there’s a really small beach, only accessible by boat, called bottle beach. It’s super quiet and beautiful and might be just what you need: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/bottle-beach-koh-phangan/
Anonymous says
08/17/2015 at 6:38 amHi Kristin, thank you for sharing your experience! I just want to ask, is it necessary to leave the passports with them? I’m planning to go there on September 1st.
Kristin says
08/20/2015 at 5:48 pmI can’t recall if it was a requirement or not but they keep them locked in a safe so it’s a good idea to do so. If I recall correctly the dorm rooms did not lock.
saravanananathan says
04/09/2016 at 3:45 ami want to have an experience at the monastery.
I wish to be there on April 13.
please help
Kristin says
04/13/2016 at 2:52 pmIt only starts at the beginning of every month.
Archana Vallabhaneni says
11/25/2016 at 5:44 pmHey Kristin,
I am considering doing this, incidentally, this coming New Year’s eve. I understand that its a silent retreat and sans all stimulants. But is it possible to keep a book or two? Or general reading is also mandatorily out of question?
Kristin says
11/26/2016 at 12:04 pmreading is supposed to be out of the question as is writing, so if you really want to honor the practice then don’t bring books.
Karley says
06/07/2017 at 7:47 pmHey Kristin, I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE your blog. You have helped me plan a trip to Chile in Dec. and now my trip to Thailand in Sept! So, thank you! I would love to do a retreat like this but for 3-5 days instead. Have you heard of any others in Thailand? I’ve been googling, and couldn’t get that website to work that you mentioned in your first comment on this page. Would love to hear if you’ve heard of any others or have ideas of how I can find one!
Kristin says
06/08/2017 at 12:38 amHey Karley, so glad that you’ve found the advice on this site helpful!
You’re not easily finding 3-5 day options because Vipassana meditation retreats are 10 days as a standard. I’m glad you asked, though, because I’d never questioned why that is before, so I did some research. Apparently they used to be held for seven weeks (!) up until the dawn of the 20th century. After some experimentation from more modern teachers, they found that 10 days is the absolute minimum in order for the mind to settle down so that you can do the deep work.
Now that I know that it makes total sense. This is why ten days is so tough for most people with no experience (and those with experience as well, of course). It takes an amazing amount of resilience and concentration to quiet the mind, and I agree that after just three days it would be very hard to see some real, tangible results. Consider going for the full 10!
Karley says
07/16/2017 at 8:48 pmHey Kristin, thanks again for all your advice in this blog – I find it super helpful! Can you tell me more about getting to Suan Mokkh? I’m thinking about coming in from Chiang Mai and have limited time there, so thinking about flying from there to Surat Thani on Aug. 30, the day before registration. Do you know when is too late to get to the monastery the day before? I’d like to stay the night in order to be there early for registration the next day. Did you get there the night before?
If I choose to come instead on Aug. 31, do you know if the buses from Surat Thani to Chompon run frequently, so I can make sure i’m there by 11 am or noon?
Secondly, I’d like to give my family a way to contact the monastery in order to reach me in case of a family emergency back home in the US. Do you know if this is possible? Is this something you thought about?
Thanks for everything! You are so inspiring and have encouraged me to finally travel on my own!
Karley
Kristin says
07/20/2017 at 5:22 amHi Karley, I took the bus to the wat on the 31st from Surat Thani. There’s a bus depot with busses leaving every now and then. I would ask at your hotel in Surat Thani when the first one is. Tell the bus driver ‘Suan Mokkh’ so that he drops you off at the right spot. I don’t think they can accommodate people getting there earlier, like the day before, honestly.
The idea is that you’re off the grid. Same for the organizers. Are you concerned about an emergency while you’re there? I’d probably wait until things are all cool at home so that you can be fully present.
Janice Brogan says
09/03/2017 at 4:40 amHi Kristin,
Your suggestions say to bring something to sleep on if you don’t fancy concrete beds, etc Would I be allowed to bring/use my own pillow?
Kristin says
09/04/2017 at 8:10 pmI think you can bring one but I wouldn’t necessarily flaunt it since they do prefer you use the wooden one (but I didn’t – ouch)
Daria says
11/07/2017 at 3:02 pmHi Kristin !
One practical question… about costs of that course.. do u have to pay for it ? if yes.. how much ?
and another question.. about your personal feelings about that course.. it was worth doing it ? what did u learn there if i may ask ?
Best greetings,
Daria =)
Kristin says
11/08/2017 at 1:47 amIt’s a mandatory donation of 1000 baht, which is nothing, really.
It’s not a course, it’s a ten day silent meditation so you’re not really learning per se. That changed my life. It started me on the path of mindfulness. I’m so grateful for it and now I meditate every morning.
Sydney says
01/22/2018 at 2:25 amHello Kristin!
I settled on Thailand and plan to attend the retreat this upcoming month (February). I’ll be going to Chaing Mai after the retreat and thought I’d fly there out of Surat Thani Airport. I’ve been searching the Suan Mokkh website for travel information after the retreat, but there is nothing. And I can’t find any contact information for general inquiries.
I was wondering if you remembered how you left the retreat and how convenient it ended up being. The retreat should end around 9:30 am, and it says it could take about an hour or so to get to the airport, so theoretically I should be able to make a 1:30 PM flight. But I’m unsure how readily available transportation is at the monastery. A little insight from someone who has been there would be helpful if possible.
Thanks a bunch!
Sydney
Kristin says
01/22/2018 at 2:28 amHi Sydney, you just catch a bus heading towards Surat Thani from the road, a short walk from the monastery. I remember waited a couple of hours for it to come. I’m guessing the times vary and it might come right away or you might have to wait for a while, so you might want to book the flight for the evening or the next day just to be safe.
Lina says
04/28/2018 at 9:12 amHi. Maybe you remember and can give me advice. I’m planning to enrol in Wat Suan Mokkh retreat. Have just one concern. I heard that they collect watter (drinking and for cooking) from asbetos roofs. Please let me know maybe you have noticed if this is true or not. THANK YOU 🙂
Kristin says
04/28/2018 at 10:29 amI have no idea how they collect the water but that sounds strange. Where did you hear that?
Remi Aubry says
08/05/2018 at 9:06 amHi,
I’ve read this post and am very interested in a 10 day retreat.
I should be in your region arounf the 10th of august.
What are your availabilities, and other pertinent info I must know prior to booking.
I’m a solo traveller and I’ve been inetrested in this for quiet sometime.
It would be a pleasure to experience this in Thailand.
Looking forward in getting your feed back.
Remi Aubry
Kristin says
08/06/2018 at 1:00 amHi Remi, to clear it up I’m just someone who attended and wrote about the experience. You don’t book it, you just show up on the 31st of the month. Hope that helps!
Sherry says
08/20/2018 at 3:46 pmI’m going to be attending the 10 day meditation in September. Afterwards I have two more weeks in Thailand. I’m wondering how I’ll feel immediately afterwards; will I be want to be around a crowd or continue with quiet? It probably varies for each individual.
Kristin says
08/21/2018 at 2:04 amDefinitely varies for each person, but I think easing into being around a boisterous crowd is a good idea. Even being in a city again can be really jarring, so I’d leave it as open as you can so that you can make a decision in the moment.
Joy Curtis says
08/25/2018 at 6:15 amHi,
I am planning to do it Next week. I have Just one question about the bath things… whe have to wash with All the ladies together? And what does it means to bath in sarong? Because I am only 18 years old and I never did it and I have never heard about sarong….
big Thanks!
Joy 🙂
Kristin says
09/04/2018 at 2:10 pmYes it’s a common bathroom with a big pool of water. You’ll wrap yourself in a sarong, which is a big piece of cloth, and pour buckets of water over your body.
Alia says
12/09/2018 at 8:56 amHi Kristin,
I don’t know if this has been answered, but I plan on going to this retreat in February, which happens to be the busiest month. It says registration is first-come, first-served and those who show up the day before registration (Jan 30th for me) can stay at the monastery. I will be in Krabi Island until the 31st, but am thinking I may leave on the 30th in order to get to the monastery the day before registration. Do they turn people away? They didn’t mention if there was a limit or not. What do you recommend?
Thanks!
Kristin says
12/09/2018 at 11:12 amHi Alia,
Hmm, I suppose that they must reach a capacity at some point, as they only have so many dormitories. If this is important to you, I’d suggest getting there a day early just to be super sure, or getting there early on the morning of the 31st.
Visnja says
03/08/2019 at 3:41 pmThanks so much for such a great post – goes into much more detail than their official site!
I’m headed to the monastery this April and honestly my biggest worry are the mosquitos (they LOVE me); apart from using the bites as an excuse to practice equanimity (lol….. this is my second vipassana course)…any tips around how to avoid them as much as possible? Is the mosquito net good enough?
Also, for clothing, are colourful patterns okay to wear?
Thanks so much!
Kristin says
03/13/2019 at 11:57 amThis was the hardest thing for me too! I wish I had an easy answer. They may not be as bad in April. It was more when I meditated that they got me vs sleeping when I had a net. Bright colors were fine when I was there.