Doi Luang Chiang Dao is Thailand’s third tallest peak, accessible via a fairly easy drive 1.5 hours from Chiang Mai and surrounded by mountain after mountain in every direction. In a word, it’s stunning.
The hike itself is also lovely. It’s steep in parts, though not overly so, weaving through a jungle over mountain saddles and up to a peak that gives you what must be the most beautiful and expansive view in Thailand. After comparing with Doi Inthanon, this one might not be as tall but it’s so much better.
It’s pretty hard to find any concrete information online about this hike. I was left with more questions than answers before attempting it myself: Does one need a guide? Is it necessary to book weeks in advance? Is it possible to do it in one day?
We arrived at the park area well after dark the night before we aimed to do the hike. Everywhere I might be able to inquire was closed, so all I could really do was just go and see. Thankfully it worked out, but for those who would like to plan ahead a bit more, here’s what I found out about hiking Doi Luang Chiang Dao:
Independently or with a guide?
This is the tricky part. I read online that one needs a guide, and also that one doesn’t need a guide. Which is true? There’s not much in place to enforce the rule of taking a guide, if it is a hard rule, and the trail is easy to navigate, so you’re unlikely to get lost without one. It’s not really possible to book one the day of due to the park office opening late (8:30am) and sometimes availability of guides is limited. (Update from a reader Nov 2019: Guides are absolutely required!)
Therefore you must book in advance, at least one day before at the park office, which is in a different location than the park entrance. You’ll need to get there before they close at 4pm. The guide costs 1000 baht and will probably not speak English.
That said it’s a small fee, really, and provides a job for someone.
I had also read that booking several weeks in advance is necessary. Perhaps this is true during the highest season, though in late January didn’t seem to be the case.
It’s also possible to join an organized 2 day, 1 night hike with a guide and porters if you’d like to camp out and see the sunrise and sunset from the top, which must be spectacular. This is by far the most popular option and you’ll mostly be with Thai people, which if the abundant friendliness on the trail is any indication, is probably a pretty cool experience.
If attempting in one day, the earlier you go the better. If driving, you’ll enter the park headquarters where you’ll be asked to pay 200 baht per person plus a vehicle fee if you’re driving yourself. It’s also possible to take a taxi.
The first obvious clearing to your left is where it starts, about 14km up the road from the entrance. Be careful, as there’s a huge dip in the dirt and there’s just one area, at least when I was there, where you can safely pull off the road and into the parking area.
To the left, there’s a ‘do not enter’ sign, which is, ironically enough, exactly where to enter and start the hike. Next you’ll see a pile of walking sticks and a few parked motorbikes.
From there it’s a straightforward hike all the way to the top through a gorgeous forest with tropical plants, tall trees wrapping around rocks, bamboo, and in mid January, even some cherry blossoms.
There will be several forks in the road with signs that are only in Thai. At each one, veer left and you’ll stay on the correct trail.
Towards the end, there will be a large camping area that lasts for several hundred meters. Keep walking through it and up to the top.
Again, I’m not encouraging that you go without a guide, but I did notice during the hike that it would be doable independently with relative ease.
Is it possible in one day?
A few posts I saw online insisted that doing the hike in one day would be impossible or incredibly difficult. I disagree. This hike was only moderately difficult (by my standards – everyone is different) and at about 12km roundtrip, which is totally doable if you leave early enough in the morning.
I started at 7am and finished at 4pm, including plenty of time at the top and lots of photo stops.
The beginning and the end are steep, with a bit of rock scrambling at the top. I imagine shortly after it rains the trail is muddy and difficult. However I found it to be pretty manageable just in running shoes.
One big benefit of doing it in one day is the possibility of having the top to yourself. I passed what must have been at least 70 people coming down as I was going up, since most people don’t do it in one day. The sunrise and sunset are undoubtedly incredible, but also crowded, so unfortunately, you will miss that doing it in one day only. Unless you hike in with the stars, which I suppose is possible.
Other Tips
Though you can leave Chiang Mai in the very early morning — like while it’s still dark out — to make it up to the trailhead, I suggest booking a couple of nights in Chiang Dao. It’s a lovely little town and it’s nice to have a laid back and relaxed evening before and after the hike, should you choose to do it in one day. I stayed at Chiang Dao Story Camp and thought it was lovely.
Also, bundle up! It gets cold up there, especially if you camp overnight at the top.
Additionally, if you can make this part of a bigger road trip, do! There are so many amazing things in the areas surrounding Chiang Mai, much of which are unknown to other tourists, which to me, makes them all the more special.
Doi Luang Chiang Dao was a highlight of the north for me, and a lovely hike that I thoroughly enjoyed. I hope that you do, too!
Sandeep panwar says
Hiking is my passion.
Dominique | dominiquetravels.com says
You do you train to be fit for hikes like these? I do hikes in the Netherlands, but they are mostly flat. How can I prepare for hiking up mountains?
Anonymous says
Glad you made it here! This was my favorite hike in Thailand, we saw the best sunset and sunrise, and saw mountain goats too.
Kristin says
No way! Goats?
Danny says
Hi,
How did you get your permit without a guide ? How do they enforce this ? We like to do trail running, so I don’t think guides are running.
Kristin says
They don’t really enforce it and I didn’t have a permit TBH.
Barbora says
Hi!!
Thank you for your awesome post! 🙂 we are looking to do this hike in November but dont really want a guide. If we start early around 7 am is it possible to get through main entramce without a guide?
Thank you in advance!
Kristin says
I’d start earlier if you can.
hermit says
Hi there,
Thanks for the post. Very useful tips. I am going there for hiking in November and was wondering if any earlier notification of national park authorities is required beforehand? Any permits/pass? Would be grateful for your advice.
Thanks in advance.
Kristin says
You are supposed to have a permit, yes.
Hermit says
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for your reply.
How can I Get the permit? Is it possible to arrange it via internet? Do You know more details?
Is there any map available to Get there wihout a guide?
Kristin says
You have to go in person the day before to the office and get it.
JZ says
Were you are able to do this hike in a pair of sneakers or do you advise hiking boots?
Kristin says
Sneakers. The beginning can be steep and muddy if it has rained so boots might be helpful. I think the biggest thing is shoes with tread.
Ben says
Hi there,
First of all, great blog post on this! Love all the information. Truly grateful for it.
I know you didn’t get a permit, but was wondering if you knew where to acquire one? Everywhere I’ve read tells me I should get one but doesn’t say where from.
Thanks!
Kristin says
There’s an office located elsewhere. Travelfish says, “the Wildlife Sanctuary office, where you register for treks and book guides and transport, is situated at the end of the lane leading past Chiang Dao Nest at the foot of the steps climbing up to Wat Tham Pla Plong”
Shan says
Can you share how much the permit cost? The Airbnb’s I’m booking said they could get me a permit and guide but I think are ripping me off.
Kristin says
I honestly did not get a permit. I just showed up at sunrise and was able to hike in.
Lor says
Not possible without a tour guide. Just went to their office, they don’t issue permits anymore.
Kristin says
It’s not supposed to be possible, no.
Tarek says
Anybody wants to do the hike on Nov-14?
Solo here
Nadia says
Hi! We’re planning to do the hike on Nov 20th. Did you try and succeed? With or without guide? 🙂 We’re still trying to find out if we can do it without guide and if not how much we would have to pay.
Nadia
Justyna says
Hi, maybe you will still manage to read it: I went there today. The path was awful: extremly muddy and with so much bush you couldn’t see the way. I slipped multiple times, it wasn’t enjoyable at all. After 1,5h we decided to go back. As we finally managed to reach the parking lot, there were some rangers waiting for us! They were unhappy with us appearing from behind the board „no entry” and took as to the police station in Chiang Dao! It wasnt funny!! With us started also one couple, the rangers knew it and were waiting for them as well! We were told the only legal way to reach the peak is with the guide but it’s also possible to do it in one day. People, dont go there alone if you dont want get into trouble with the police.
paul says
what are the police going to do? they’re not taking you to court are they. 500 baht fine at worst and I’d refuse to pay that as well. i’m not even sure if the park rangers have any authority to physically move you somewhere. they can tell you to leave the park, sure, not take you to a police station.
Justyna says
Just saying what happened to me. I didn’t have to pay anything, they were just taking 1000 pictures od us, I think they also made a short video of us apologizing and we had to sign something written in Thai (?!). We don’t know what it was, nobody could explain us. There’s not so much space for a discussion as people speak only very basic English. As for me: it was very unpleasant to be stoped by them, waiting, not knowing what they actually wanted from us. I wouldn’t do it again so I’m just sharing my experience, hoping it will spare others some trouble.
Kristin says
Ooooh, I think it’s important to not sign anything in a language when you can’t understand it. Glad it didn’t end up worse for you.