Newlywed couples stroll along white sand beaches, hand in hand. Their bungalow sits over the water, with bleached white sheets and a dedicated staff who serve them steak dinners, rent them expensive jet skis, and offer them boat trips with other foreign guests.
They spend $3,000 per night on this bungalow, but it’s a once-in-a-lifetime occasion! Sure, it could be just about anywhere with beautiful beaches (and trust me, the world has more of them than one could ever hope to see), but it’s the Maldives, so it’s exclusive, and out of the reach of most people, right?
What if I told you none of this has to be true? What if I told you there are locally-owned guest houses in the Maldives, and it’s entirely possible to go there, even as a solo traveler, and have a completely authentic experience without feeling like the only odd man out without a spouse or boatloads of cash?
Guess what? That’s exactly what I’m telling you.
I had wanted to visit the Maldives ever since I first heard about it. I knew it was amazing for diving and I had always dreamed of seeing it for myself. When an email came through for one of the low cost airlines I subscribe to, I realized I could fly over for a couple hundred dollars and booked it without hesitation – I would figure out the rest later.
At first I was afraid it would break the bank. Not only that, I’d be the only solo traveler in a sea of couples. Then I found something out that changed my perspective completely.
Staying Local
Three years ago, the Maldives opened up the possibility to locals to open guesthouses and welcome travelers to locally-inhabited islands, thereby providing an authentic and budget friendly alternative to resorts. I found this one via AirBnB.
Given it’s still such a small market (the place I stayed at will be fully booked for the first time ever this month, though it’s only three rooms anyway), local tourism in the Maldives is relatively new and provides a great opportunity for travelers who want to experience something more authentic.
I stayed at a place called the Amazing Noovilu, run by an upbeat and always smiling local named Mazin, with his family providing the rest of the support from cleaning rooms to driving boats to cooking the meals. The room itself ran $100 per night, though I saw several options on Airbnb for closer to $50, making it a truly budget-friendly way to explore the Maldives.
Even better than that, Mazin ate each meal with us, which was almost always a traditional Maldivian meal, complete with grilled fish, a delicious bread called roshi, rice, curries, veggies, and lots of tuna.
Awesome almost-private tours
Perhaps the best part of the trip, and what remains the best kept secret on the Maldives at the moment, is how private each tour we did ended up being. It was typically just myself, Mazin, his brother driving the boat, and the buddy I was traveling with.
“We must look like really big deals,” we joked to each other, being driven around in a private boat, just the two of us. Yet we were paying less for the privilege.
We swam with Manta rays and Whale Sharks, getting the opportunity to stay and float with them as long as we wanted while several boat loads of people came and left, only getting a short glimpse.
Possibly my favorite thing about the whole experience was getting to dive one-on-one with Mazin. He rented diving equipment from local sea cucumber fishermen, took me out on the little speedboat, and guided dives in some of the best reefs in this world – all without any other divers around.
Fishing on a local fisherman’s boat under the stars and going to a deserted island with the others staying at the guest house were additional cherries on top of an already fantastic trip.
Interacting with the locals
Especially moving was the reception from the locals on Mahibadoo. When visiting the local outdoor coffee shop (the main hangout for locals), the owner came over twice to make sure the coffee and service was to my liking.
“I told him not to make it too sweet. I used to work in the resorts. I know Europeans don’t like it too sweet,” he said.
Then there was the encounter with a couple of young local girls who waited outside of my garden door, waiting to present me with some gifts – a set of hair barrettes and a pen. It was an incredibly touching gesture (and honestly, I needed a pen! I had misplaced mine).
I couldn’t have expected that this kind of no-frills trip to the Maldives would be so much fun and such a rewarding experience. I’m glad to know that it’s possible to go and do it local, and to have crossed an item off of the never-ending bucket list.
Do it yourself:
- This guesthouse can be booked using Airbnb.
- One thing to be aware of is the rules in the Maldives, which are structured according to Islam: no alcohol (it will be a “dry” vacation if you stay on a local island), no bikinis (though once you leave the island – on the boat or on private islands, bikinis are fine), and covering up shoulders and knees is pretty much required of females
- Meals are authentic and local. This means fish for nearly every meal, though dietary restrictions can be accommodated
- More airlines are opening up routes to the Maldives via Male. Cheap flights are easy to find if you can be flexible with your dates. November proved to be an excellent month to visit
Kylie says
That looks so amazing! I really have fallen in love with you and your blog, I check for updates daily! You have great stories and wonderful off the beaten path information!
Kristin says
Thanks so much Kylie! I try! I really appreciate your kind comment 🙂
Pamela says
Wow, I have always put this place at the furthest corner of my mind because I was under the impression of it being expensive and lots of honeymoon couples hanging around. So thank you for making me realise that it is possible to enjoy the beauty of the place and get the authentic feel os the place. 😀 I will put this country in the one of the possible places to go in 2014!
Kristin says
I thought that too but I had always wanted to go there so badly. It’s great that now it’s an option for everyone!
Alexandra says
When I was struggling with the heat in India this summer I almost headed to the Maldives but thought there was no way to do it on a budget… If only you had written this earlier 🙁
Kristin says
Best put it on the list for the future then!
Franca says
You did it the right way, that’s for sure. After 18 months of traveling I learnt that staying with locals turns out to be always the best option, at least it has been for me so far. You don’t need a 5 stars resort to enjoy a place, thanks for sharing! 🙂
Kristin says
Completely agreed it’s always the best way to experience a place
Queenie says
Thanks for this extremely helpful article. I always wanted to go to Maldives, but had not really planned the trip because I felt it was too expensive and not suitable for a solo traveler like me. But this article changed all that! I can’t wait to share this with my friends!
Kristin says
glad you found it helpful! Yes, it was really good to find out it doesn’t have to be all couples and honeymooners!
Hogga says
wow such vivid colours
Jamie says
This is an experience of my dreams. How amazing to get to experience local activities without it seeming like a show is being put on for you as a tourist. The girls giving you those gifts is just adorable. I could dive into that photo of the reef.
Kristin says
I know! I was so touched by that! I love that it doesn’t have to be super expensive too. It was all around perfect.
Cindy says
As in most countries, going “local” is the way for both a budget trip and an authentic trip. Travelling is about discovering something new, be it good or bad. Meet and embrace the culture !
Kadri says
Maldives looks like a perfect place to visit.
Anubhooti says
Kristin, After reading your post, I am hoping to do Maldives on a budget with my husband and 3.5 year old daughter. Mazin’s place is however booked. Do you have any other recommendations? Ideally a place not more than 2-3 hours by ferry from Male which is good for snorkelling and diving. Looking at all the options is very confusing so if you have any other reviews, it would be really helpful.
Kristin says
Mazin’s is the only place I’ve stayed, but in this article I wrote for nomadic matt I described, in detail, how to get around the Maldives and a few websites you can use for booking. I’d suggest airbnb which gives you a map view of guesthouses, and then cross referencing with trip advisor: http://www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-blogs/travel-to-the-maldives-budget/
paper boat sailor says
I am researching for an article about tourism in the Maldives and this write-up was of great use to me. This beautiful atoll country actually has an immensely troubled political history, and none of its tensions and effects are remotely apparent on the exclusive resort islands–what a pity, right?
I went to the Maldives for the first time last year, stayed in Male, Maafushi and Addu atoll, and was witness to the daily life in a unique country with a completely absorbing history.
Kristin says
I found out more about that while I was in the Maldives. I think there were protests in Male in the months prior to my arrival. A resort would be pretty, I’m sure, but staying with locals was the coolest experience I could have had.
Sarah says
I lived in Maldives for almost a year so can definitely back you up girl! Budget, authentic travel in Maldives IS possible!! Great article, what lovely memories you’ve made. 🙂
Kristin says
Wow what a cool experience that must have been!
Alex says
Hey Kristin,
If you don’t mind, I’d like to share a list of other nice and peaceful local islands:
– Rasdhoo;
– Ukulhas;
– Mathiveri;
– Thoddoo;
– Dhigurah; (All of them in Ari Atoll as Mahibadhoo)
– Dharavandhoo, Baa Atoll
– Thinadhoo, Vaavu Atoll
– Guraidhoo, South Male Atoll
Ann says
How do we find a place to stay in these places please?
Kristin says
I’d check out Airbnb
whatthewhatthewhat says
What about gays? Since it’s a Muslim country, I’m assuming if I were to go with my boyfriend, I would have to hide PDA? Which is fine but would be unfortunate.
Kristin says
I can’t answer that from experience but these guys did a pretty good write up on it: http://nomadicboys.com/gay-maldives/
I generally felt that if I wanted to be totally free, to wear a bikini, drink alcohol, eat pork, etc., I’d need to be on a resort island. When you stay local you accept their rules, which fall under Sharia Law. I think the ideal vacation there would include both local and resort islands.