Most travelers come to Bangkok and leave either feeling like they can manage it, or they absolutely hate it.
Bangkok was my first stop on my endless voyage 20 months ago. I remember landing and feeling a mixture of happiness to be back in Asia and apprehension about being in such a big, bustling city without a hostel booked, no real idea of what to expect, and carrying the negative opinions I’d heard about it.
I didnβt know much, other than to head to Khao San Road, a backpacker area of Bangkok.
Sure enough, on my first day in, I was nearlyΒ scammed by a tuktuk driverΒ who had expertly searched me out on that very road. I was pretty far from public transportation, so it only made me more of a target for anyone offering transportation options. It was seedy, hot, full of ping pong show hawkers, and all kinds of other horrible things.
Now that I’ve gone back for a fifth time, avoiding Khao San, I finally feel that I’ve enjoyed Bangkok how it should be enjoyed. Β Here are my top tips for really falling in love with the City of Angels:
1) Don’t stay on Khao San Road
Now I know, the key is avoiding that area like the plague!Β The city has a beating heart that is so hard to see from the hidden backpacker area. It’s far away from everything other than the Grand Palace, which is another tourist trap, if you ask me.
It’s natural to want to be surrounded by other backpackers, but that’s possible by staying at hostels in a few other key locations such as Lub d in Siam Square or 3Howw onΒ Sukhumvit. Khao San is still accessible by cheap transport from these areas if you want to check it out for a night.
2) Couchsurf
I owe a lot of my enjoyment this time around to staying with an expat currently living and teaching in Bangkok. He took me to some local food joints that would be difficult to discover without some local knowledge. I found him throughΒ couchsurfing.comΒ which is how Iβve met a lot of awesome people. It doesnβt have to be scary to couchsurf. I just go for people who have a lot of positive recommendations and a good set of experience.
He also lived in an area without many tourists, which gave me a different taste of Bangkok – in a good way.
Oh, and he had this view:
3) Head to places you’ve never heard of in search of food
I met up with a reader who had found a little street side restaurant serving duck dishes (she used eatingthaifood.com, by the way). Β It was a BTS then taxi drive away from Sukhumvit, but it took us to an area we wouldn’t have otherwise visited – one without any tourists.
I’ll always remember when a Thai woman saw us eyeing some snake fruit, then quietly paid the seller a couple baht so that we could try it, as a gift! That kind of hospitality isn’t as easy to come by in areas that are packed with tourists.
4) Visit Chatuchak Weekend Market on the weekends
Chatachuk is a market that both locals and foreigners like to visit, so there’s still a taste of local culture there. Plus, they sell absolutely everything! Truly talented artists sell their art there, along with one-of-a-kind handmade items that can fit in a backpack.
The Spanish chef who makes street side paella at the Viva 8 there is entertaining to watch as well.
5)Β Visit Lumpini Park
Many people think of stuffy, crowded, and bustling streets when they think of Bangkok. Get to Lumpini Park to experience Bangkok’s version of Central Park. It’s a great spot for people watching and seeing locals out playing sports, walking around, and interacting, which is something I really dig when I’m traveling. Β I want to see how life is lived away from tourist-packed areas. There are loads of otherΒ cool things to do in Bangkok here, some of which are more popular with tourists, and some of which are lesser known.
Though I’ve been several times, I still feel like Bangkok has many layers to peel back before I’ll really feel like I understand it fully. That said, this trip has sparked my curiosity enough to make me want to explore, which is more than I could say before!
Do you love Bangkok, do you hate it? Do you have more tips to add? Comment below!
Lisa - Wee Wanders says
I’ll be arriving in Bangkok in just over a week (squeal!). It’s my first time visiting so appreciate the tips…I wonder if I will still be going in 20 months π
Kristin says
Enjoy it! I think it’s a great city to start off in.
Ashley @ A Southern Gypsy says
Love this — only 4 months left until my big SEA trip π
Kristin says
You must be getting super excited!
Jayme says
Great tips! I really enjoyed Bangkok. Didn’t have the time to go to Chatachuk market, so that’s definitely on my list for next time!
Kristin says
It’s a must-do (that I didn’t do until my 5th time but wish I’d gone sooner)
Karisa says
I lived in Bangkok for a year and this post really makes me miss it!!!!!!!!!! My apartment was 1 MRT stop away from Chatuchak martket so obviously I spent way too much time there!! My job was just down the street from Lumphini Park, which is so peaceful and beautifl! (When it’s not being occupied by protesters!). There is a time and a place for Khao San road but I would never want to stay there again!! It’s SO LOUD! I’d rather stay out near Sukhumvit. One of my favorite things to do in Bangkok and that really helped me fall i love with it was to see the city from up high! Riding around the BTS skytrain and taking in the site at sky bars always reminded me how lucky I was to live in such a big, exciting city. π LOVE THIS POST!!!!!
Kristin says
I completely agree with seeing it from up high. Cities get so much more beautiful when you can see all of the lights and watch a brilliant sunset.
Arno says
Absolutely love Bangkok, the vibe, the energy, the contrasts! Take a biketour, enjoy the city from the river using a public watertaxi and ramble along Chinatowns alleys
Kristin says
Oh yeah how could I forget the water taxi! Just don’t get that water on yourself!
Melissa says
I didn’t care for Bangkok overall. But I made sure to stop there for one night when I went from Chiang Mai to Phuket to go to a sushi place Nomadic Matt took us to on his tour.
Nick Paton says
Thanks for the tips, I’ll be there next month and hadn’t considered couchsurfing but I might tee something up!
Alana - Paper Planes says
When I first went to Bangkok I didn’t think much one way or another (though I think the Grand Palace is incredible despite the crowds and relatively higth entry fee), but he more I visit the city the more I really like it. I think the key is searching for those little pockets of magic instead of getting overwhelmed by the entire thing!
Kristin says
Completely agree. Maybe most cities are like that.
Tyler says
We’ve been using Bangkok as a base for our visit to India and current trip in Myanmar and we really enjoy our time there. We stay at Mile Map Hostel in Siam and being in that area is great – lots of delicious street food, friendly locals, and close enough to Patpong or the BTS if we’re looking for a party. Not staying on Khao San is probably a big part of why we like the city.
At Chatuchak, did they still have marian plum smoothies at Bee Berry? One of the best smoothies we’ve ever had. Their mango was no slouch, either.
Kristin says
they probably do but it’s such a huge market, I didn’t get a chance to try. Had some amazing coconut ice cream, though!
Dale says
“1) Donβt stay on Khao San Road”
You could have just ended it there and it would have been the best advice for Bangkok ever.
KSR is NOT Bangkok, and the sooner tourist and travellers realise that the better. Sure it’s cheap and fun (if you like that kind of thing), but the real beating heart of Bangkok is way, WAY outside the immediate area of it.
Kristin says
True that’s why it’s point #1!
Kaleena's Kaleidoscope says
Wow, amazing photos! I’m planning an “endless voyage” in SE Asia myself for next year and had heard similar negative things about Bangkok but it’s good to know there are ways to still enjoy it! Avoiding backpacker traps always seems to be a good strategy π
Kristin says
It usually is!
Shari Shapiro says
Bangkok is one of the most amazing cities in all of Asia and it is sad that most people only see a little part of it. My husband and I have just returned from a year and a half trip around Asia and were lucky enough to have the opportunity to visit Bangkok almost 10 times while we were away. While we couldn’t couch surf (most people can only host one at a time) we did join for the couch surfing meet ups that they have on a weekly basis. These are great options for couples who are traveling or for lone travelers who aren’t comfortable with actually staying with strangers. It is a great way to meet people and they actually have weekly events in most major cities around SE Asia ( we went a few times in Kuala Lumpur). Thanks Kristin for another great post! We’ve been home only two months and are already aching to go back.
Kristin says
That’s a great point – the meet ups for couchsurfing are such a good way to participate even if you’re not actually surfing anyone’s couch.
Alexis Kensey says
This is great advice. I am planning my SEA trip for next year and have heard such horror stories about bangkok that this is refreshing. I hope to follow these tips when I go!
Kristin says
Enjoy it!
Chris says
Bangkok is one of my favorite cities and reading this instantly makes me want to go back there. I have been there three or four times and but didn’t get to visit the weekend marked. But I definitely know that I will be back someday!
The Together Traveler says
I have been to Bangkok 3 times on my trip now and will inevitably go back at the end before I fly home. I’m so glad I found this post because I have gotten a little more comfortable with the city each time but it is so overwhelming! When I did stay around Khao San Road, Khaosan Immjai was the best hostel I tried. I think I’ll try one of your recs next time though..
Kristin says
A different part of the city will feel less hectic than Khao San does. It definitely did for me!
Heather says
I absolutely love Bangkok, it’s my favorite city in Asia! I spent five days there at a lovely hotel in a quiet suburb and avoided Khao San Road completely. We took the MRT and water taxis everywhere, explored the markets and ate lots of super delicious food. We even went to the movies – it was almost like we lived there!
Kristin says
I like taking the water taxis as well. It’s so nice to feel at home in a big city like that.
Carina says
Bangkok is one of these cities: You love it or hate it! I think it is a fascinating city, but my boyfriend absolutely hated it. Thanks for these awesome tips, love your post!
Kristin says
I never really loved it until this time around, so maybe it’s an acquired taste π
Kristin says
It certainly seems to be but I think there are lots of redeeming qualities.
Frank says
It took me a while but I think I fell in love with Bangkok my 3rd time there. The first time I was scammed for $3,000 (Gem scam: http://bbqboy.net/falling-for-the-bangkok-gem-scam/. Was really stupid. 2nd time I went as a single guy and had a bit too much fun and it’s a bit of a fog. But the 3rd time I spent about 4 days discovering some of the lesser known sites, taking the ferries along the river, and finding the quiet spots in the parks (your Lumpini suggestion a good one). It’s a city that grows on you and which you enjoy more as you get more comfortable. I don’t know if there is a more exciting city anywhere.
Spanky and I heading back in 2 weeks. The last time we went to Bangkok was 6 years ago. She didn’t like it then – but I’m convinced I can get her to like it more this time.
Frank (bbqboy)
PS Yes, Khoa San sucks. Just grungy, dirty tourists who don’t shower.
Kristin says
Haha tourists who don’t shower. That’s horrible about the scam! I would leave with a horrible impression too. I think it takes most people a few times to really love Bangkok.
Brooke says
I loved the Bangkok Chinatown. I had an oyster pancake there that was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten.
Kristin says
Whoa, seriously? Stall location please! That sounds nasty but I’m so intrigued
Kiara Gallop says
Totally agree with number 3 – I met an American chef last time I was passing through Bangkok and he knew about all these lovely little restaurants that were totally off the traveller radar. I love Chatachuk Market and Lumphini Park too and am glad you included them here π Unfortunately I’m guilty of migrating towards Khao San for a cheap place to stay though (I usually stay down Soi Rambuttri over the road from Khao San), but I’m definitely open to trying somewhere new for my next stay in the city π
Kristin says
True it’s pretty cheap over there accommodation-wise. Just isn’t the real Bangkok so when people tell me they don’t like it and they’ve only stayed there it’s obvious why they’re not fans of it!
Sindre says
I’m going to Bangkok for the first time tomorrow to start off my three month long backpacking trip, and I am so excited. Thank you so much for all great guides on your blog for SEA!
Kristin says
Woohoo! Enjoy it!
Ajoy Medhi says
I have been to Thailand a no. of times……traveled to Pattaya,Phuket, Krabi. It is a great country to be in . Would love to travel again.
Stefano says
I visited Bangkok many years ago . . . . and your article increased my wish to go back there !!!
Thank you for your suggestions !!!
Katie says
These are some great tips! We visited Bangkok 2 years ago and avoided staying on Khao San Road as it was so touristy! Mark Wiens and his eating thai food blog was so helpful for our trip and is one of the reasons we have decided to move there!
Kristin says
Love his recipes!
Ruchi Gupta says
Thanks for the tips! I think sticking to food that you are familiar with is a good idea, after traveling such a long way thereβs no need to add more immediate stress on the body. Also, you photos are lovely! Thanks for sharing,
Jaspal Singh says
I loved Bangkok, each and every time I have visited it. Its really great to see the women power in all sectors of their major industries. And Chatuchack market is my fav.