顺其自然 – “Shun qi zhi ran”
Translation: “let nature take its course”
This saying came to define the travels of Ya Ting and I for the next few weeks when I would end up hitch hiking for over 2500 kilometers (over 1500 miles) across Yunnan and Sichuan provinces in China.
The first time we tried hitch hiking was in LiJiang with hopes of making it to Tiger Leaping gorge. It took about 30 minutes of walking along the road with our thumbs up before a van pulled over and offered us a ride most of the way. Once he dropped us off at the freeway interchange bound toward Shangri-La, it took all of two minutes for us to get another ride to the start of the gorge hike.
Two days later we finished our Tiger Leaping Gorge trek culminating in the town of Qiaotou, ready to head to Shangri-La, about 186km away. We had no idea how successful we’d be trying to hitch again. Ya Ting kept repeating how lucky we’d been the first time around while cheerfully adding that all we had to do was “try and try” the second time around.
No sooner had she casually lifted her arm and raised her thumb than a car pulled over offering a ride. We opened the door in complete shock to find our friend Lilly from the hostel in LiJiang inside.
What were the odds? At the very moment we needed a ride, the man she was hitch hiking with pulled right over to provide.
One thing that struck me was how kind the driver was.
He kept pulling over at various picturesque stops so that we could take photos, buy food, and generally enjoy the ride.
I hadn’t known that was how hitch hiking could be. Sure, I’d done it in a sort of roundabout way in Costa Rica and Java before, when someone pulled over to offer me a ride and I took it, but this time was different.
I was on the side of the road with my thumb up, openly asking for a ride instead of having one offered to me.
In a few hours we arrived in Shangri-La and he pulled away just as quickly as he had pulled over to pick us up, not expecting or even desiring excessive thanks.
That night was spent in Shangri-La, just to sleep rather than sight-see as sadly most of it burned in a restaurant fire last year.
The next leg of the journey would be to Deqin, another 4 hours up snowy mountain roads.
In Yunnan province, straddling the line between Sichuan and Tibet, Deqin is known for its amazing snowy mountainous surroundings and fabulous trekking. I just hadn’t gotten enough at Tiger Leaping Gorge, and had heard too many good things about Yubeng, accessible only by foot or mule from Deqin.
Again, within a few seconds of sticking our thumbs up, a car pulled right over. It was two minority tribesmen who were returning home to Deqin with a car full of styrofoam palettes. Little particles of it rained all over the car, looking like snow.
We told the driver of our plans to trek into Yubeng – a sacred place with some of the prettiest landscape in all of Yunnan province (which is saying a lot!). His reply was simple, “In the sky is heaven, and on earth is Yubeng”.
We had around 200 kilometers to go, listening to his traditional music and talking about the weather.
It should have been an obvious bad omen when a dog ran across the street, making it impossible for the driver to miss him. I felt the bump as he hit the car, cringing, as we drove on.
Some time later, he announced, “If it snows, we’ll have some trouble getting up the mountain”.
It was smooth sailing for the first 130 kilometers, but as soon as we started to gain elevation, the snow came in sideways, blanketing everything around us and frosting the road.
The makeshift snow from the styrofoam inside finally matched the great outdoors.
At first I told myself it would be just fine, until we passed an overturned car. A few feet away, a man was helping an elderly gentleman to the side of the road.
“We have to help them!” I begged. The driver insisted there wasn’t anything we could do and the police would be along shortly. My heart hit my throat and my pulse quickened. The roads were narrow and without railings, riddled with rocks from landslides and the recent earthquake.
“Ni pa ma?” (are you scared?) he asked. I was, a little, but we made it safely to our destination an hour later. True to my previous experiences, he made a quick pit stop to show me something he thought I’d enjoy, which was traditional dancing in the city center. Not the tourist kind, but the kind put on by members of the town for other townspeople. It was pretty cool. They had some impressive dance moves and ridiculously bright and intricate costumes.
I had read (and had been told) that the drive takes anywhere from seven to 10 hours, but it only took us four, even in those terrible conditions. I would later come to appreciate hitchhiking not only for the amazing people I met, but for the much quicker and more comfortable ride.
Just like the previous drivers we’d had, he dropped us off without pausing to let us shower him with thanks, and drove on to his home town after taking us to Fei Lai (flying) temple where we’d stay the night before making our way to Yubeng.
I often wondered in the times that followed why people picked me up. I wondered what they got out of it. Sure, I provided as much conversation as I could with my limited Chinese speaking ability and they had the joy of helping someone out, but I still felt as though they gave so much more than I did.
Maybe one day, if I pick up a hitchhiker, I’ll understand.
Have you ever hitch hiked? Do you think I’m crazy?
Jenna says
Even though I think china is really safe, I still would be too scared to hitch hike! Sounds like you had a bit of an adventure… The chinese don’t do great with empathy!
Kristin says
I think that unfortunately, a lot of travelers get the wrong idea about Chinese culture and people. They’re incredibly kind but if they think they won’t be able to communicate with you, they often shut down. Just being able to speak at my basic to conversational level has shown me exactly how kind and giving they can be. I hope to really shatter those sometimes negative viewpoints with my series on hitchhiking
Ashley @ A Southern Gypsy says
Hitchiking is one of those things I had never thought I would do until I started reading other travel blogs and planning my own travels – now I hope to do it often….so maybe you’re a little crazy…but then so am I? 🙂
Heather says
That photo of burned-out Shangri-la breaks my heart. We were there for a few days last April and it was such a beautiful and charming place!
As for hitching in China, I only did it once but also had a positive experience. The lady was very nice and stopped to let us buy water and supplies at a little store along the way.
Kristin says
They always do! Or even buy me lunch! Amazing people.
Jen says
Maybe a little crazy but in a good way! Like crazy adventurous. Absolutely love reading about your adventures Kristin.
Kristin says
Thanks so much, Jen!
Joella J (J in Beijing) says
I’ve never hitchhiked but now I am tempted to try it when we’re out that way in June!
Kristin says
If you can speak some Chinese I say go for it!
AkwaabaGolden says
I loved this story 🙂 I’ve never hitchhiked, but I can’t wait to try it! 🙂
Carrie says
It has been nothing short of amazing to read about your adventures and travels, Kristin. Way to go!
I liked your comment about people shutting down if they don’t think they can communicate with you. That’s why it’s important that we at least try to learn a few phrases. It really does go a long way.
Kristin says
Thanks, Carrie! I’m so glad you’re reading and enjoying them 🙂
So true, speaking a few phrases is a huge difference maker in China.
Rashaad says
Crazy adventures! Did you participate in the dancing?
I’ve never intentionally stuck out the thumb but when was I living in Japan, a couple of times drivers pulled up alongside me to offer rides. If I return to Japan, I would hitchhike more. Or at least, seriously consider it.
Kristin says
Not that time. It was choreographed moves. In Lijiang I did join in the dancing in the town square, though. Weeks later someone came up to me saying he recognized me from it! Haha – was the only foreigner.
Becki | Backpacker Becki says
I don’t think it’s crazy…. there’s something undeniably thrilling about hitchhiking although I have yet to do it on a grand scale. I did it in Israel where a friend and I were picked up by a Army General who shouted at us quickly to get in his car as we journeyed with him in complete silence. It was unnerving at the same time as being exciting, and I was with another guy so I wasn’t too bothered. I think the thrill from hitchhiking comes from the adrenalin of the unknown and the amazing people you can potentially meet. I wouldn’t rule it out in the future… and it seems you have the bug too! 🙂
Kristin says
Haha! Sounds like quite a ride! Once I did it once I was hooked. I started meeting the coolest people and it really made me appreciate and understand Chinese kindness. These are some of the warmest people and openly asking for help, like hitchhiking, as a foreigner made me realize that.
Jimmy Dau says
Agree with you, it’s just their personality to be closed if they don’t understand. I used to hitchhike a bit in the states when I was working there but it was in smaller towns where everybody is pretty chilled. Most times they just wanted a conversation and I found that they’re just kind natured as well.
Seeing an accident is always difficult to take in though especially when you can’t do anything about it. I saw a dead body on the side of the road in Guatemala last year and our mini bus just kept on driving.
Kristin says
I saw one in Bali…2 actually, and our bus did the same. I guess there’s not a lot we could have done.
Shawn Cookson says
Great article and very inspirational. I have been a police officer for 16 years and most of the time victims did’t see it coming. Follow that “gut feeling” and have a plan if things go south. Here’s is an great article from a Benjamin Jenks on tips for hitch hiking. Seriously, have a look and be please safe out there! http://www.adventuresauce.com/2011/12/how-to-hitchhike/
Kristin says
Thanks Shawn (for scaring the crap out of me…just kidding). Will have a look.
Crystal says
Great story. Never hitch hiked, but I don’t think it’s crazy, especially in rural areas. Looking forward to following you through the rest of the challenge. We are also participating!
Aroundtheworldforhappiness says
Amazing story! I don’t think you are crazy at all! Hitchhiking is becoming a lost art. Even at home here in Canada I try and do it as much as possible so the public still has the experience of at least catching a glimpse of a hitchhiker. But it is very wise as Shawn wrote to have a back up plan incase you feel uncomfortable.
Be safe and I look forward to reading many more amazing adventures!
All the best!
Kristin says
It’s funny, I’d be more scared to do it in the US or Canada where it’s my home continent and I speak the language.
Hiking says
This is really great information to be an Asian . Nice post !
Easytrav says
It was great reading this post. I recently hiked on Ngong Hills in my country Kenya for the first time. There is no snow, rivers and stuff, but there are miles upon miles of wonderful hiking. I discovered just how exhilarating hiking is.