Day 14
I have found the ultimate oceanic sanctuary in Southeast Asia: Otres Beach in southern Cambodia.
I know these are bold words, but from a girl who grew up with the beaches of Southern California and has traveled to many around the world since then, I’d have to say Otres Beach in Cambodia rivals Caye Caulker in Belize as one of the top off-beat beach destinations in the world (that I’m aware of, as it were).
A lot of backpackers in Cambodia naturally head down to Sihanoukville; a beachside paradise with white sandy beaches and endless parties. I had heard that it could be quite seedy in Sihanoukville, a place known for prostitution tourist robberies.
Through word of mouth, I was told about Otres, just a few miles away, that was known more as a hippie enclave (I mean, I have the pants now, so I’m in, right?), would be a much pleasanter experience.
Best advice of my trip yet.
Here is how a typical day begins:
Laying on the sand, an elderly local Khmer woman comes by and does a full pedicure for just a few dollars. She also offers massage and threading services. Jack-of-all trades, this enterprising lady is.
She’s closely followed by girls carrying baskets of fruit on their heads: fresh mango, pineapple, and small, sweet bananas.
Though there are still children selling bracelets here, there are far fewer than in Sihanoukville, where I was constantly heckled by either child vendors, or Westerners trying to pass out flyers to get me in the bar they were working at.
I don’t know about you, but that’s not for me.
I much prefer this:
The white sands squeak beneath my feet. Several days have passed and I have no intention of leaving anytime soon. Each day I wake up and can’t come up with a reason to leave. I’m in good company. Many of us travelers have been here for a while.
I tend to see the same friendly and familiar faces.
Day 20
Somehow almost a week at Otres has passed and I’ve hardly realized it. The only place in the area with wifi happens to be a bar, where patrons alternate between drafts of Angkor beer and dips in the pristine and calm sea.
A long-term patron of the bar announces to all of us that we’re a bunch of “misfits, losers, rejects! We couldn’t survive a day in the real world!”
I look at my phone and realize it’s 1pm on a Monday and almost everyone has a beer in his or her hand.
I don’t feel one bit guilty. Being a reject suits me just fine.
I hope this beach doesn’t change, but I know rapid change is coming. Someday, it will probably resemble its evil step-brother, Sihanoukville (do you have the impression yet that I’m not a fan?). But for now, with nothing more than a mattress on the floor with a mosquito net covering and a beach just a few steps away, I’m happy with this paradise.
As off-beat travel goes, it doesn’t get much better than this.
* I stayed at Moonlight Rock in Otres which has been renamed Taste of Paradise. Though I’m sure it has changed a bit, I really enjoyed the people I met there and had a blast. Recent reviews seem to indicate it has retained its charm.
Alexa Hart says
Otres beach is def more laid back and hippie-esque. My favorite beach over there was a private beach called Sokha that’s owned by Sokha Beach Resort. There were no stalls of food, and people weren’t allowed to sell you things. We had most of the beach to ourselves, and it was awesome!
khmerbird says
because Sokha owned the beach. it’s a nice place, I used to stay there when I go to work in KOS.
khmerbird says
I also like Otres, it is calm and not too crowed. By the way, nice to read from you, will follow you trip around the country.
Ava Apollo says
Thanks for reading! Saw some of your stuff in connection with the art scene in Phnom Penh. Maybe our paths will cross someday!
khmerbird says
Sure, I look forward for that day! how long you plan to stay in Cambodia?
Ava Apollo says
I’m only here for a few more days as my visa is going to run out 🙁 I also need to get up to Laos. However, I have friends in Phnom Penh I need to go back and see so it’s going to happen sometime this year!
Victor Tribunsky says
Yes, the rapid change is coming, and it is sadly 🙁
Ava Apollo says
It’ll happen for sure. Land has been sold and it will be built up very soon. Glad I got to see it in all its glory.
shari says
Where did you stay in Otres? We are heading there soon and would love recommends. love your blog!
Kristin Addis says
I stayed at a place called Moonlight Rock but it’s very basic (and cheap!) There are other nice places you can just rent when you show up.
Kristin Addis says
it is! It’s amazing!
sheri says
Hi Kristin,
I’ve been scouring your newly found website as I intend to travel for a year solo next year. Looking at photos of Moonlight Rock, I’m curious as to how you store your valuables? I watched your video on that locking contraption that fits over your backpack. But what happens when you are in a hut somewhere with nowhere to lock it too? I intend on bringing my dslr and laptop and know I will want to ditch them at times, especially for the beach. How do you manage? Thanks!
Kristin says
The room itself had a padlock but I did use the pacsafe wire mesh protecter even when I didn’t have something to lock it to. It’s not completely ideal but it would be really obvious to see someone making off with an entire bag that was locked.
Christina says
Hi Kristin,
It seems like you went from Siem Reap straight to Otres. How did you make that trip? A lot of the bus companies I’m looking at only have buses from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh but not from SR to Sihanoukville.
Thanks,
Christina
Kristin says
I did stop in PP on the way. I just didn’t end up having much to say I guess. I didn’t visit the killing fields and it was a quick trip through.
Rochelle says
Been rummaging through woman travel blogs for some time now. Came across yours today and absolutely love it.
Kristin says
Thanks so much Rochelle!
Danielle says
Hi Kristin, going to Cambodia soon and have been reading through all yours posts. Just wanting some advice.. What did you do with your backpack/money/valuables when swimming? I know the big stuff you can leave in your room but the rest? Cheers 🙂
Kristin says
Don’t leave anything on the beach. I’d either leave it with a friend on shore or just lock it all up in your room. I was always walking distance from my room anyways. It was across from the beach and still only $2/night
msholden says
How do you go to Otres from Siem Reap? Planning to g back to Cambodia 🙂
Kristin says
at the time that I wrote this you had to route through Pnom Penh