“I don’t think diving with Komodo dragons is really a good idea. They swim pretty fast, you know,” said Pit, my divemaster, when she saw my dismay that we weren’t going to be diving with the Komodo dragons.
To be fair, I didn’t realize how fast these guys could swim. I hadn’t known that nobody swims with them because, well they are the largest lizards in the world and their saliva is venomous.
As part of my 6-day liveaboard diving trip with Wicked Diving in Komodo, we’d be visiting them on Rinca Island in Komodo National Park.
Wait, you didn’t see them on Komodo Island?
Actually, no. First of all, Komodo Island is HUGE, and second of all, they are spotted more often on Rinca, as it were.
When we first arrived to the island, a ranger pointed us in the direction of the check-in where we would begin our walk around one of the island trails.
“Take a stick,” he said to Pit.
We need a stick?!
This seems to be the tool of choice for fending off bloodthirsty Komodo dragons, should we end up encountering one. We all felt at ease, not.
In the forest, there was a lone water buffalo that had been rejected and left from the pack. It even makes me a little sad now to think about him, looking dejected and resigned to his fate. He would eventually become dragon prey, but his death would not be quick and painless. A bite would work its way through his body and kill him over several gruesome days. He seemed aware of this as he slumped down in a stream.
I didn’t even take a picture. It didn’t seem right.
Moments later, a few other creatures — dragons! — showed themselves. One was a baby, and the others full-grown adults. A few lumbered around in the shade and others were as lazy as could be in the sun.
It was early morning and mating season, so the probability that they would be more active was good. Normally, Komodo dragons are solitary creatures, but mating season brings them together in a clash over a female. Come afternoon, they tend to get lazy lying in the sun, as cold-blooded creatures like lizards are wont to do.
The real star of the show for me over those six days, however, was not a Komodo dragon. Cool as they are, the most magnificent moment of my dive trip occurred during my first day of diving when a manta ray came so close to me that I thought it just might touch me.
Let me tell you, that is not an experience that I will soon (or probably ever) forget. A creature as huge and magnificent as a manta ray blessing me with her presence, and thankfully, curiosity that led her so close to me, is a memory from this trip that I will always hold near and dear to my heart.
Even more lucky, I happened to capture the entire encounter on video, as well as footage of several black-tip reef sharks, sweetlips fish, sea turtles, and many other varieties of reef fish.
Not only is Komodo Natural Park absolutely stunning, but the diving is way up there with my favorite sites, like Belize and Sipadan in Borneo.
It was also a nice challenge for me. After going from only 12 to now 65 dives during the past ten months of travel, it was a good way to test if my diving skills have improved (and they have! They really have!), though I still did almost get carried away by a current or two.
It was one of the best dive trips of my life, and making this video was an awesome reminder of all the amazing things I saw. I do hope you enjoy it as much as I did (turn on the sound!):
(see the rest of my videos on Vimeo)
Have you ever been moved by an encounter with an animal?
* Special thanks to Wicked Diving (who I have now gone on two dive trips with) for helping me make this a reality. Opinions are completely my own.
Toni says
I passed my open water in Thailand and 2 days later I was on a liveaboard dive boat for a week in the Similan Islands off the West Coast of Thailand – we saw everything from turtles, sharks and manta rays and were lucky enough on one dive to have 5 manta rays play in our bubbles for an entire hour. I literally cried underwater I was so moved by the experience 🙂
Your video brought back all those incredible memories for me; THANK YOU hun 😀
Kristin says
I did a liveaboard there too and was so happy to have my first Manta encounter there. It sparked an obsession!
Rika | Cubicle Throwdown says
Holy crap!! Manta ray!! That is so awesome. Still on my ‘must see’ list. So far the best experiences I’ve had were the pod of wild dolphins and two hammerhead sharks… that was pretty incredible. Still waiting on a whale shark and a manta ray though 🙂
And your story about the water buffalo was so sad 🙁 Poor guy. Those dragons are insane, I actually said “oh my GOD” out loud at the photo with you and the huge one!
Kristin says
Where do I find hammerheads?!?!? Dying to see them! Tell me and I will go! I mean it!
Jo (The Blond) says
The dragons creep me out! Honestly! That’s why I admire you for getting so close to them..
Kristin says
Haha, I don’t have a lizard phobia, but let’s not talk about cockroaches
Jasper says
Hey Kristin,
which liveaboard did you do in Komodo? I’m going to Komodo / Flores and Raja Ampat in September.
Btw, I check out Layang Layang in april / may and Gordo Banks (Cabo san Lucas) in september – december for hammerheads. I’m dying to see them as well :).
Kristin says
I did a 6-day dive trip with Wicked diving and was pleased with their dive guides and green policies. It was fantastic although a 3-day would be great as well. Let me know if you see Hammerheads in Mexico!
Steph (@ 20 Years Hence) says
Awesome post! It’s gotten me so excited as we are currently in Indonesia and will be here for the next 60 days and we definitely plan to hit up Komodo to do some diving. I’m still trying to figure out if we have the budget to manage a liveaboard, but if we can at all manage it, it definitely looks to be worth it! Right now we are on Nusa Lembongan right off the coast of Bali and are planning to start our AOW certification tomorrow… I’m hoping that while we’re here we’ll also get to see some mantas (our first time!) and if we really get lucky, we should get to see some Mola Mola too. It’s been way too long since we were last in the water, though as fate would have it, our last time diving was actually at Sipadan! 😀
And obviously while we’re over in that part of the world, we’re gonna have to go dragon hunting… though whether I’d have the guts to get so close to one (broken legs or no!) I don’t know!
Kristin says
That’s great Steph! I spent 6 weeks in Indonesia and could not believe how short it felt. Yes, SCUBA is really expensive. Unfortunately, as you know, it’s also addictive. Enjoy it!
surya dive center bali says
Write more, thats all I have to say. Literally, it seems as though you relied on the video to make
your point. You obviously know what youre talking about,
why throw away your intelligence on just posting videos to your weblog when you could be giving us
something enlightening to read?
Ashley Hubbard says
Absolutely incredible. Going to see the dragons was already on my Southeast Asia trip next year, but you just opened my eyes to a lot more. Thank you! 🙂
Kristin says
Awesome!
Lina says
Your dives look amazing! We loved seeing the mantas – really incredible! Unfortunately, one of our dives was an absolute flop (too much current) and the weather was iffy the whole time so liveaboards were out of the question.
Kristin says
Mantas are so majestic and amazing. I always feel like I’ve been allowed a special privilege when they let me swim with them 🙂
wayne griffith says
Amazing photos. you make it very well at all. sangta artistic. I often hear that the visit to the island of Komodo is very interesting and fun. The place was like a Jurassic world that is in the world. Many exciting adventures and beautiful view. Nature is still the original and give satisfaction while exploring it. Nice post.amazing photos. a
Son Mai says
Hi Kristin,
Do we have to know how to dive in advanced in other to do the diving trip with Wicked Diving?
Thanks a ton!
Son Mai
Kristin says
Hi Son, You need to have at least Advanced Open Water certification to go on this trip because the current in Komodo is quite strong. However you can get certified with them while on Flores prior to taking the trip. They’re a great company and I LOVED the diving in Komodo.
Annika says
Lovely video! I can’t wait to see manta rays. My favorite experience was lucky dive no 13 when we saw a baby whale shark!
Kristin says
Whale sharks are awesome! I never get tired of seeing them, nor rays.
Pulung says
What’s the camera setting to capture in indonesia? I’m still blind about photography..
Kristin says
Totally depends on the light conditions!
Nicole says
Your dive video made me cry.. the happiest tears. I hope to be able to see manta rays in my future dives.
Kristin says
that’s beautiful!
Mumun says
Manta rays are one of my fav creatures of the sea that I’ve seen in the wild, aside to whales, dolphins, and hammerhead sharks. They so majestic and I wish i could just cuddle them. Komodo is a destination that I, too, will remember and will always say yes to. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Seems like the Komodo National Park fan club is growing well.
Kristin says
I loved it so much there and have some wonderful memories of those dives. They are still competitors for my absolute favorite, even 3 years later!
Archana C. says
hey kristin, jut love reading yur blog. i came across while searching for hiking mount bromo on your own… and instantl fell in love with the way you travel…!!!
for some reason i can not view your video…. what is another way to view it?? a link probably??
cant wait….
Kristin says
How strange! It’s here https://vimeo.com/bemytravelmuse
Aasiya says
Hey Kristin,
Thanks for all the wonderful information on the posts. I’d like to ask if you were able to find single traveller supplements for SCUBA diving easily? Also, do these companies take in people who have little or no swimming skills?
Kristin says
Komodo has a very strong current so you need experience. SCUBA diving is less about being able to swim and more about being confident in the water, which might be hard if you don’t know how to swim, but you can do it! I didn’t ever have to pay more because I was on my own.
Naomi says
Hello! I’ve been using your log a bunch for a summer from to Indo. Thanks for the great information- especially about the Nusa Islands! I’m having a hard time planning the Komodo portion of the trip. Can you give me some advice? There will be 3 of us, and I’ve left a 4 day window for us to be in the Komodo area before my travel companions fly out. I’d love to do a 3 day/2 night live aboard. I’ve read so many blogs abut the planning that my head is spinning! I’m trying to figure out if I can plan it ahead and book something now, or if I should book it the day we arrive, right in town. Second, we are just snorkelers, not divers. Third, we aren’t looking for a luxury, expensive boat, but one that will take us to all the main places. Based on your experience (have you been again recently?), do you have advice on this? Thanks for any thoughts you have, I really appreciate it~
Kristin says
I did a diving trip with Wicked Divers and they were awesome, but it’s definitely a diving trip. The thing about Komodo is the reefs are AMAZING but too deep to see by snorkeling, plus the current is strong and that presents a challenge. Any chance you could get certified first? It’s worth it.