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Be My Travel Muse

Solo Female Travel

Komodo: Nearly Touching Dragons and Manta Rays

07/29/2013 by Kristin 33 Comments

“I don’t think diving with Komodo dragons is really a good idea. They swim pretty fast, you know,” said Pit, my divemaster, when she saw my dismay that we weren’t going to be diving with the Komodo dragons.

To be fair, I didn’t realize how fast these guys could swim. I hadn’t known that nobody swims with them because, well they are the largest lizards in the world and their saliva is venomous.

As part of my 6-day liveaboard diving trip with Wicked Diving in Komodo, we’d be visiting them on Rinca Island in Komodo National Park. 

Wait, you didn’t see them on Komodo Island?

Actually, no.  First of all, Komodo Island is HUGE, and second of all, they are spotted more often on Rinca, as it were.

This is Rinca (pronounced like ‘Rinja’)

When we first arrived to the island, a ranger pointed us in the direction of the check-in where we would begin our walk around one of the island trails.

“Take a stick,” he said to Pit.

We need a stick?!

This seems to be the tool of choice for fending off bloodthirsty Komodo dragons, should we end up encountering one.  We all felt at ease, not.

Pit with her stick
The skulls of water buffalos and monkeys that had become dragon food

In the forest, there was a lone water buffalo that had been rejected and left from the pack. It even makes me a little sad now to think about him, looking dejected and resigned to his fate. He would eventually become dragon prey, but his death would not be quick and painless. A bite would work its way through his body and kill him over several gruesome days. He seemed aware of this as he slumped down in a stream.

I didn’t even take a picture.  It didn’t seem right.

Moments later, a few other creatures — dragons! — showed themselves.  One was a baby, and the others full-grown adults. A few lumbered around in the shade and others were as lazy as could be in the sun.

A baby dragon
See how he lumbers?

It was early morning and mating season, so the probability that they would be more active was good. Normally, Komodo dragons are solitary creatures, but mating season brings them together in a clash over a female. Come afternoon, they tend to get lazy lying in the sun, as cold-blooded creatures like lizards are wont to do.

Lazy lizards
This one’s front legs were broken in a fight with another lizard, so he was slow enough for me to get close to for a photo. Still, the ranger is in the background, stick at the ready to come to my defense if need be.

The real star of the show for me over those six days, however, was not a Komodo dragon.  Cool as they are, the most magnificent moment of my dive trip occurred during my first day of diving when a manta ray came so close to me that I thought it just might touch me.

Let me tell you, that is not an experience that I will soon (or probably ever) forget. A creature as huge and magnificent as a manta ray blessing me with her presence, and thankfully, curiosity that led her so close to me, is a memory from this trip that I will always hold near and dear to my heart.

Even more lucky, I happened to capture the entire encounter on video, as well as footage of several black-tip reef sharks, sweetlips fish, sea turtles, and many other varieties of reef fish.

Not only is Komodo Natural Park absolutely stunning, but the diving is way up there with my favorite sites, like Belize and Sipadan in Borneo.

One of many stunning sunsets
The shallows were a brilliant aqua color
Playing pirates on the ship
Yet another stunning sunset

It was also a nice challenge for me.  After going from only 12 to now 65 dives during the past ten months of travel, it was a good way to test if my diving skills have improved (and they have! They really have!), though I still did almost get carried away by a current or two.

It was one of the best dive trips of my life, and making this video was an awesome reminder of all the amazing things I saw.  I do hope you enjoy it as much as I did (turn on the sound!):

(see the rest of my videos on Vimeo)

Have you ever been moved by an encounter with an animal?

* Special thanks to Wicked Diving (who I have now gone on two dive trips with) for helping me make this a reality. Opinions are completely my own.

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Komodo National Park
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I'm Kristin, and my vision of a better world is one where more women are empowered and living out their dreams. Solo traveling is the best method I've found to become the best, bravest version of me. This site is all about how YOU can have the adventure of a lifetime in an easy, fun, approachable way, so that you can feel empowered, too. Want to learn more about me?

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Comments

  1. Toni says

    07/29/2013 at 2:23 pm

    I passed my open water in Thailand and 2 days later I was on a liveaboard dive boat for a week in the Similan Islands off the West Coast of Thailand – we saw everything from turtles, sharks and manta rays and were lucky enough on one dive to have 5 manta rays play in our bubbles for an entire hour. I literally cried underwater I was so moved by the experience 🙂
    Your video brought back all those incredible memories for me; THANK YOU hun 😀

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      07/29/2013 at 7:15 pm

      I did a liveaboard there too and was so happy to have my first Manta encounter there. It sparked an obsession!

      Reply
  2. Rika | Cubicle Throwdown says

    07/29/2013 at 6:45 pm

    Holy crap!! Manta ray!! That is so awesome. Still on my ‘must see’ list. So far the best experiences I’ve had were the pod of wild dolphins and two hammerhead sharks… that was pretty incredible. Still waiting on a whale shark and a manta ray though 🙂

    And your story about the water buffalo was so sad 🙁 Poor guy. Those dragons are insane, I actually said “oh my GOD” out loud at the photo with you and the huge one!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      07/29/2013 at 7:15 pm

      Where do I find hammerheads?!?!? Dying to see them! Tell me and I will go! I mean it!

      Reply
  3. Jo (The Blond) says

    07/30/2013 at 2:34 am

    The dragons creep me out! Honestly! That’s why I admire you for getting so close to them..

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      07/31/2013 at 9:43 pm

      Haha, I don’t have a lizard phobia, but let’s not talk about cockroaches

      Reply
  4. Jasper says

    08/01/2013 at 1:32 am

    Hey Kristin,

    which liveaboard did you do in Komodo? I’m going to Komodo / Flores and Raja Ampat in September.

    Btw, I check out Layang Layang in april / may and Gordo Banks (Cabo san Lucas) in september – december for hammerheads. I’m dying to see them as well :).

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      08/01/2013 at 8:50 am

      I did a 6-day dive trip with Wicked diving and was pleased with their dive guides and green policies. It was fantastic although a 3-day would be great as well. Let me know if you see Hammerheads in Mexico!

      Reply
  5. Steph (@ 20 Years Hence) says

    08/01/2013 at 3:31 am

    Awesome post! It’s gotten me so excited as we are currently in Indonesia and will be here for the next 60 days and we definitely plan to hit up Komodo to do some diving. I’m still trying to figure out if we have the budget to manage a liveaboard, but if we can at all manage it, it definitely looks to be worth it! Right now we are on Nusa Lembongan right off the coast of Bali and are planning to start our AOW certification tomorrow… I’m hoping that while we’re here we’ll also get to see some mantas (our first time!) and if we really get lucky, we should get to see some Mola Mola too. It’s been way too long since we were last in the water, though as fate would have it, our last time diving was actually at Sipadan! 😀

    And obviously while we’re over in that part of the world, we’re gonna have to go dragon hunting… though whether I’d have the guts to get so close to one (broken legs or no!) I don’t know!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      08/01/2013 at 8:49 am

      That’s great Steph! I spent 6 weeks in Indonesia and could not believe how short it felt. Yes, SCUBA is really expensive. Unfortunately, as you know, it’s also addictive. Enjoy it!

      Reply
  6. surya dive center bali says

    08/07/2013 at 3:20 pm

    Write more, thats all I have to say. Literally, it seems as though you relied on the video to make
    your point. You obviously know what youre talking about,
    why throw away your intelligence on just posting videos to your weblog when you could be giving us
    something enlightening to read?

    Reply
  7. Ashley Hubbard says

    09/17/2013 at 1:48 pm

    Absolutely incredible. Going to see the dragons was already on my Southeast Asia trip next year, but you just opened my eyes to a lot more. Thank you! 🙂

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      09/17/2013 at 8:14 pm

      Awesome!

      Reply
  8. Lina says

    02/03/2014 at 5:29 pm

    Your dives look amazing! We loved seeing the mantas – really incredible! Unfortunately, one of our dives was an absolute flop (too much current) and the weather was iffy the whole time so liveaboards were out of the question.

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/04/2014 at 2:21 am

      Mantas are so majestic and amazing. I always feel like I’ve been allowed a special privilege when they let me swim with them 🙂

      Reply
  9. wayne griffith says

    04/28/2015 at 12:08 am

    Amazing photos. you make it very well at all. sangta artistic. I often hear that the visit to the island of Komodo is very interesting and fun. The place was like a Jurassic world that is in the world. Many exciting adventures and beautiful view. Nature is still the original and give satisfaction while exploring it. Nice post.amazing photos. a

    Reply
  10. Son Mai says

    08/08/2015 at 11:10 pm

    Hi Kristin,

    Do we have to know how to dive in advanced in other to do the diving trip with Wicked Diving?

    Thanks a ton!

    Son Mai

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      08/10/2015 at 5:04 am

      Hi Son, You need to have at least Advanced Open Water certification to go on this trip because the current in Komodo is quite strong. However you can get certified with them while on Flores prior to taking the trip. They’re a great company and I LOVED the diving in Komodo.

      Reply
  11. Annika says

    01/17/2016 at 12:00 pm

    Lovely video! I can’t wait to see manta rays. My favorite experience was lucky dive no 13 when we saw a baby whale shark!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      01/18/2016 at 12:42 am

      Whale sharks are awesome! I never get tired of seeing them, nor rays.

      Reply
  12. Pulung says

    01/22/2016 at 6:26 am

    What’s the camera setting to capture in indonesia? I’m still blind about photography..

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      01/22/2016 at 3:24 pm

      Totally depends on the light conditions!

      Reply
  13. Nicole says

    03/10/2016 at 7:35 am

    Your dive video made me cry.. the happiest tears. I hope to be able to see manta rays in my future dives.

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      03/10/2016 at 7:48 am

      that’s beautiful!

      Reply
  14. Mumun says

    10/18/2016 at 10:19 pm

    Manta rays are one of my fav creatures of the sea that I’ve seen in the wild, aside to whales, dolphins, and hammerhead sharks. They so majestic and I wish i could just cuddle them. Komodo is a destination that I, too, will remember and will always say yes to. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Seems like the Komodo National Park fan club is growing well.

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      10/20/2016 at 1:12 am

      I loved it so much there and have some wonderful memories of those dives. They are still competitors for my absolute favorite, even 3 years later!

      Reply
  15. Archana C. says

    02/13/2017 at 9:30 am

    hey kristin, jut love reading yur blog. i came across while searching for hiking mount bromo on your own… and instantl fell in love with the way you travel…!!!

    for some reason i can not view your video…. what is another way to view it?? a link probably??
    cant wait….

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/14/2017 at 12:42 am

      How strange! It’s here https://vimeo.com/bemytravelmuse

      Reply
  16. Aasiya says

    02/14/2017 at 10:29 pm

    Hey Kristin,
    Thanks for all the wonderful information on the posts. I’d like to ask if you were able to find single traveller supplements for SCUBA diving easily? Also, do these companies take in people who have little or no swimming skills?

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/17/2017 at 1:29 am

      Komodo has a very strong current so you need experience. SCUBA diving is less about being able to swim and more about being confident in the water, which might be hard if you don’t know how to swim, but you can do it! I didn’t ever have to pay more because I was on my own.

      Reply
  17. Naomi says

    04/06/2019 at 7:32 am

    Hello! I’ve been using your log a bunch for a summer from to Indo. Thanks for the great information- especially about the Nusa Islands! I’m having a hard time planning the Komodo portion of the trip. Can you give me some advice? There will be 3 of us, and I’ve left a 4 day window for us to be in the Komodo area before my travel companions fly out. I’d love to do a 3 day/2 night live aboard. I’ve read so many blogs abut the planning that my head is spinning! I’m trying to figure out if I can plan it ahead and book something now, or if I should book it the day we arrive, right in town. Second, we are just snorkelers, not divers. Third, we aren’t looking for a luxury, expensive boat, but one that will take us to all the main places. Based on your experience (have you been again recently?), do you have advice on this? Thanks for any thoughts you have, I really appreciate it~

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      04/07/2019 at 4:04 pm

      I did a diving trip with Wicked Divers and they were awesome, but it’s definitely a diving trip. The thing about Komodo is the reefs are AMAZING but too deep to see by snorkeling, plus the current is strong and that presents a challenge. Any chance you could get certified first? It’s worth it.

      Reply

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