Day 34
Day by day I fall more intensely in love with Cambodia. Each place I encounter is more beautiful and impressive than the last, and that’s saying a lot considering I started with Siem Reap – home to Angkor Wat.
Some people say that Thailand is the land of smiles, but I suspect they haven’t been to Cambodia.
Kids wave to me and shout “hello!” and flash their beautiful smiles on a daily basis.
And they really are glowing, beautiful smiles.
They chase after me on my bike, sometimes racing me on their way home from school in their long skirts and white, sleeved shirts. The dirt roads are full of potholes, but it only adds to the friendly competition.
If I smile at a local and say hello, he always smiles a warm, genuine, beautiful smile back to me and waves. It warms my heart they way they’ve welcomed me.
Considering the hardship and genocide these people went through so recently, so many of them experiencing it first hand, it’s so humbling to see the way they love life, even with so little by way of possessions and money.
It’s like each day here provides a new lesson to be learned about the beauty of life and how to appreciate it.
I haven’t had a hot shower in weeks – I don’t even remember what they feel like anymore. Nowadays, the cold water is welcome after a hot day covered in a glaze of deet and humidity.
I’ve done nothing but share rooms, usually full of bunk beds, for nearly the full month I’ve been traveling. My bed often consists of a slightly sandy and damp mattress with a mosquito net covering – usually a holey one. If I encounter soap in a bathroom I’m completely astounded and delighted. I can’t remember what air conditioning feels like. I sometimes don’t even have a fan or electricity for most of the day. I spent a good chunk of this month in a damp existence covered in sweat, sea-water, or some mixture of the two.
The best part? I couldn’t care less. I’ve gladly traded all of the comforts of Western life for this Cambodian lifestyle and I don’t miss them at all. I look at my makeup bag and laugh now. There’s no way that’s going on my face.
I’m kind of shocked at how little I really need to be happy. Is this what traveling does to people? I think so.
Every day here is like a new intense high. I wake up and pinch myself, completely understanding how some travelers come here planning on a few weeks, and end up staying for months, or even years.
My time in Cambodia has sadly come to an end, which makes my heart ache. However, I have to get up to Laos, get through that beautiful country, most likely fall in love again, and make it up to Chiang Mai for the lantern festival. Besides, there’s a big world out there for me to see.
Trust me, Cambodia, I’ll be back for you. You will see me again. I’ll wear this place like a thumb print on my heart forever. It has changed me.
For the better. Absolutely for the better.
Just One Boomer (Suzanne) says
You and Mr. TheWorldOrBust have me utterly convinced that I have to figure out a way to visit Cambodia—and I hear Laos casts a similar spell on visitors. My days of shared bunk rooms, no AC or fan and holey mosquito netting are probably over (and I’m not that sorry about that ;-)), but hopefully traveling sharing a room only with my spouse and with intact mosquito netting won’t spoil the magic.
Ava Apollo says
You can get some pretty nice hotels for next to nothing! Something tells me an intact mosquito net would have been even more magical.
Ashley of Ashley Abroad says
Now I will be dreaming of Cambodia, it seems so amazing. I love the shot you took of the spires on the roof, also!
Ava Apollo says
I’m still dreaming about it!
Hogga says
Okay your pictures look terrifying.. the colours looks like some Tim Burton film that I really want to be in. Awesome!
Ava Apollo says
Haha, thanks? Bit of editing made it look that way.
Christina says
You have me more and more convinced to make it over to Cambodia ASAP! I knew I wanted to go to Thailand for sure, but now I have to add Cambodia – it sounds amazing!
Ava Apollo says
Definitely go! It’s so beautiful.
Charles Kosman says
It was a gorgeous place years ago when we first visited. The people were amazing however a few of them were a little over zealous whenever we pulled out western money. That can happen whenever there is an economic disparity so we never held it against them.
Some of our greatest memories of the place were of the kids who followed us around all the time. They had smiles that provided a stark contrast with their history and the gorgeous, sometimes forboding, temples that litter the countryside. When you see happiness in someone with so little it can’t help but redefine your view on the world.
Good post!
Ava Apollo says
I would agree there were times when I had to argue someone down on price or just walk away when I knew I was getting overcharged, but I think that’s just how it is when you’re a traveler in poor places. Didn’t turn me off, though.
weng says
I’m so jealous and happy for you that you’re loving your travels! Can’t wait to meet up with you in spring! <3
Ava Apollo says
Yay can’t wait!
Ruth Rieckehoff says
I am one of those who need to visit Cambodia. I have hope I will be able to visit one day (I have to start saving).
Ava Apollo says
You don’t have to save much. I found plenty of $2 dorms!
BeyondBlighty says
I’d love to go to Cambodia. I’m sure it’s way better than Thailand. I thought it was far too touristy. You could barely get a feel for the local culture there…
Ava Apollo says
I’ll have to let you know – I am heading to Thailand next month. I think you’ve just got to get out of the city to get to know the country you’re in.
This American Girl says
Thank you for this! I’m in Vietnam now, headed to Thailand next, planning to double back through to Cambodia. You’ve gotten me really excited. So, see ya in Chiang Mai?? 😉
Kristin says
Possibly! Will be there in November
shristi says
Hey ,, I am going to Cambodia next week. Do you have any hostels that you can recommend,, I have a slight idea about where to go now but it would be great to get some recommendations? 🙂 Thankyou
Kristin says
Mad Monkey in Siem Reap was awesome when I was there. 11 Happy backpackers and the white rabbit are both good in PP. In Otres Beach I stayed at moonlight rock which was very basic but I liked it.
Nicole says
I have been to Cambodia only once. I fell in love! I cannot wait to return after reading your blog. I want to spend a lot more time exploring that beautiful country and their people!
Kristin says
I feel the same way and can’t wait to return.
Rom says
Thanks for this!
Kristin says
Yep!
anil_traveller says
Great post! Inclined to agree with you Cambodia being the ‘land of smiles’, although Thailand too has plentiful smiles.
If you’re ever back in Cambodia then you should give a shot, a truly off the beaten path experience in Siem Reap
Ankur says
Kristin, your viewpoint is always refreshing. Thanks for sharing.
greg clark says
I’ve been to Cambodia twice, the first time in 2012 for 3 days as it was a side trip from Thailand and actually took the train from Bangkok to the border , crossed the border on foot and a bus to Siem Reap. I loved it so much i went back a year later and did a few days in Phnom Penh and another 7 days in Siem Reap. Anyone who hasnt gone to Cambodia yet you should go. I never met so many smiling happy people and while the traffic can be chaos, its fun chaos. Siem Reap, the markets, the food, the temples, Tonle Sap is a place that will stick with me forever and its just an unbelievable place. I cant wait to get back there
Kristin says
Same here. Sounds like we were there right at the same time and I wonder how it is now, almost 4 years later!
Jeanne says
Hey! Love your blog, very helpful to help me plan!
Tell me, what time of year did you travel there? Thanks 🙂
Kristin says
October but any time is great.