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Solo Female Travel

Cambodia Has Me Completely Smitten

10/31/2012 by Kristin 30 Comments

Day 34

Day by day I fall more intensely in love with Cambodia.  Each place I encounter is more beautiful and impressive than the last, and that’s saying a lot considering I started with Siem Reap – home to Angkor Wat.

Some people say that Thailand is the Land of Smiles, but I suspect they haven’t been to Cambodia.

Kids wave to me and shout “hello!” and flash their beautiful smiles on a daily basis.

And they really are glowing, beautiful smiles.

They chase after me on my bike, sometimes racing me on their way home from school in their long skirts and white, sleeved shirts. The dirt roads are full of potholes, but it only adds to the friendly competition.

Angkor Thom, Cambodia
How could I not be in love?

If I smile at a local and say hello, he always smiles a warm, genuine, beautiful smile back to me and waves. It warms my heart the way they’ve welcomed me

Considering the hardship and genocide these people went through so recently, so many of them experiencing it first hand, it’s so humbling to see the way they love life, even with so little by way of possessions and money.

It’s like each day here provides a new lesson to be learned about the beauty of life and how to appreciate it.

National Museum in Phnom Penh
National Museum in Phnom Penh – how could I not be blown away?

I haven’t had a hot shower in weeks – I don’t even remember what they feel like anymore. Nowadays, the cold water is welcome after a hot day covered in a glaze of DEET and humidity.

I’ve done nothing but share rooms, usually full of bunk beds, for nearly the full month I’ve been traveling.  My bed often consists of a slightly sandy and damp mattress with a mosquito net covering – usually a holey one.  If I encounter soap in a bathroom I’m completely astounded and delighted.  I can’t remember what air conditioning feels like.  I sometimes don’t even have a fan or electricity for most of the day.  I spent a good chunk of this month in a damp existence covered in sweat, sea-water, or some mixture of the two.

The best part? I couldn’t care less.  I’ve gladly traded all of the comforts of Western life for this Cambodian lifestyle and I don’t miss them at all.  I look at my makeup bag and laugh now.  There’s no way that’s going on my face.

I’m kind of shocked at how little I really need to be happy.  Is this what traveling does to people?  I think so.

Every day here is like a new intense high.  I wake up and pinch myself, completely understanding how some travelers come here planning on a few weeks, and end up staying for months, or even years.

Koh Rong, Cambodia
Would be pretty easy to end up here for months on end, yes?

My time in Cambodia has sadly come to an end, which makes my heart ache.  However, I have to get up to Laos, get through that beautiful country, most likely fall in love again, and make it up to Chiang Mai for the lantern festival.  Besides, there’s a big world out there for me to see.

Trust me, Cambodia, I’ll be back for you.  You will see me again.  I’ll wear this place like a thumb print on my heart forever.  It has changed me.

For the better. Absolutely for the better.

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I'm Kristin, and my vision of a better world is one where more women are empowered and living out their dreams. Solo traveling is the best method I've found to become the best, bravest version of me. This site is all about how YOU can have the adventure of a lifetime in an easy, fun, approachable way, so that you can feel empowered, too. Want to learn more about me?

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Comments

  1. Just One Boomer (Suzanne) says

    10/31/2012 at 9:52 am

    You and Mr. TheWorldOrBust have me utterly convinced that I have to figure out a way to visit Cambodia—and I hear Laos casts a similar spell on visitors. My days of shared bunk rooms, no AC or fan and holey mosquito netting are probably over (and I’m not that sorry about that ;-)), but hopefully traveling sharing a room only with my spouse and with intact mosquito netting won’t spoil the magic.

    Reply
    • Ava Apollo says

      11/01/2012 at 2:35 am

      You can get some pretty nice hotels for next to nothing! Something tells me an intact mosquito net would have been even more magical.

      Reply
  2. Ashley of Ashley Abroad says

    10/31/2012 at 10:33 am

    Now I will be dreaming of Cambodia, it seems so amazing. I love the shot you took of the spires on the roof, also!

    Reply
    • Ava Apollo says

      11/01/2012 at 2:34 am

      I’m still dreaming about it!

      Reply
  3. Hogga says

    10/31/2012 at 12:48 pm

    Okay your pictures look terrifying.. the colours looks like some Tim Burton film that I really want to be in. Awesome!

    Reply
    • Ava Apollo says

      11/01/2012 at 2:34 am

      Haha, thanks? Bit of editing made it look that way.

      Reply
  4. Christina says

    11/01/2012 at 7:24 am

    You have me more and more convinced to make it over to Cambodia ASAP! I knew I wanted to go to Thailand for sure, but now I have to add Cambodia – it sounds amazing!

    Reply
    • Ava Apollo says

      11/01/2012 at 11:35 pm

      Definitely go! It’s so beautiful.

      Reply
  5. Charles Kosman says

    11/01/2012 at 9:04 am

    It was a gorgeous place years ago when we first visited. The people were amazing however a few of them were a little over zealous whenever we pulled out western money. That can happen whenever there is an economic disparity so we never held it against them.

    Some of our greatest memories of the place were of the kids who followed us around all the time. They had smiles that provided a stark contrast with their history and the gorgeous, sometimes forboding, temples that litter the countryside. When you see happiness in someone with so little it can’t help but redefine your view on the world.

    Good post!

    Reply
    • Ava Apollo says

      11/01/2012 at 11:37 pm

      I would agree there were times when I had to argue someone down on price or just walk away when I knew I was getting overcharged, but I think that’s just how it is when you’re a traveler in poor places. Didn’t turn me off, though.

      Reply
  6. weng says

    11/01/2012 at 9:52 am

    I’m so jealous and happy for you that you’re loving your travels! Can’t wait to meet up with you in spring! <3

    Reply
    • Ava Apollo says

      11/01/2012 at 11:39 pm

      Yay can’t wait!

      Reply
  7. Ruth Rieckehoff says

    11/02/2012 at 12:42 pm

    I am one of those who need to visit Cambodia. I have hope I will be able to visit one day (I have to start saving).

    Reply
    • Ava Apollo says

      11/06/2012 at 1:17 am

      You don’t have to save much. I found plenty of $2 dorms!

      Reply
  8. BeyondBlighty says

    11/03/2012 at 10:48 am

    I’d love to go to Cambodia. I’m sure it’s way better than Thailand. I thought it was far too touristy. You could barely get a feel for the local culture there…

    Reply
    • Ava Apollo says

      11/06/2012 at 1:17 am

      I’ll have to let you know – I am heading to Thailand next month. I think you’ve just got to get out of the city to get to know the country you’re in.

      Reply
  9. This American Girl says

    11/01/2013 at 3:04 pm

    Thank you for this! I’m in Vietnam now, headed to Thailand next, planning to double back through to Cambodia. You’ve gotten me really excited. So, see ya in Chiang Mai?? 😉

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      11/03/2013 at 9:07 am

      Possibly! Will be there in November

      Reply
  10. shristi says

    02/24/2014 at 4:53 am

    Hey ,, I am going to Cambodia next week. Do you have any hostels that you can recommend,, I have a slight idea about where to go now but it would be great to get some recommendations? 🙂 Thankyou

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/24/2014 at 11:54 pm

      Mad Monkey in Siem Reap was awesome when I was there. 11 Happy backpackers and the white rabbit are both good in PP. In Otres Beach I stayed at moonlight rock which was very basic but I liked it.

      Reply
  11. Nicole says

    08/29/2014 at 12:35 pm

    I have been to Cambodia only once. I fell in love! I cannot wait to return after reading your blog. I want to spend a lot more time exploring that beautiful country and their people!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      09/02/2014 at 10:43 pm

      I feel the same way and can’t wait to return.

      Reply
  12. Rom says

    02/17/2015 at 3:21 am

    Thanks for this!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/17/2015 at 4:39 am

      Yep!

      Reply
  13. anil_traveller says

    07/26/2015 at 11:28 am

    Great post! Inclined to agree with you Cambodia being the ‘land of smiles’, although Thailand too has plentiful smiles.

    If you’re ever back in Cambodia then you should give a shot, a truly off the beaten path experience in Siem Reap

    Reply
  14. Ankur says

    09/14/2015 at 9:31 pm

    Kristin, your viewpoint is always refreshing. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
  15. greg clark says

    06/20/2016 at 12:31 am

    I’ve been to Cambodia twice, the first time in 2012 for 3 days as it was a side trip from Thailand and actually took the train from Bangkok to the border , crossed the border on foot and a bus to Siem Reap. I loved it so much i went back a year later and did a few days in Phnom Penh and another 7 days in Siem Reap. Anyone who hasnt gone to Cambodia yet you should go. I never met so many smiling happy people and while the traffic can be chaos, its fun chaos. Siem Reap, the markets, the food, the temples, Tonle Sap is a place that will stick with me forever and its just an unbelievable place. I cant wait to get back there

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      06/23/2016 at 4:25 am

      Same here. Sounds like we were there right at the same time and I wonder how it is now, almost 4 years later!

      Reply
  16. Jeanne says

    01/22/2017 at 7:33 am

    Hey! Love your blog, very helpful to help me plan!
    Tell me, what time of year did you travel there? Thanks 🙂

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      01/23/2017 at 10:32 am

      October but any time is great.

      Reply

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